[SO20thCentury]

At the risk of looking like a bonehead (please tell me if I am) this is the plan I came up with. On another thread I asked if this would work with the MS-A amps but we were still scratching our heads if this will work with these drivers.

SPL is not my goal and I am ridiculously careful with equipment including my hearing but I would like the headroom mentioned here so much. Having extra power for when you need it is something I've never experienced with my stock civic

 

[SO20thCentury]

For the sub, wiring each voice coil separately to the same signal out on a monoblock amp I'm fairly certain I found on a google search of DVC wiring. Only came across one example so any other thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Gomer Pilot]

Looking at that amp, you'll most likely need to wire down to 2 ohms. Easiest way is positive to positive, negative to negative on the voice coils, and then one of each back to the amp. You can run the voice coils in parallel off the amp, but it would be an unnecessary wire run.

Fosgate has an easy wiring wizard.

Rockford Fosgate® - RFTECH Support

Power may be a bit high for one MKIV, but you should be able to manage that with gains and using the recommended enclosure.

 

[Gomer Pilot]

You can't run the 1004 bridged at 2 ohms on the 65s though, can you? It should be 4 ohms only bridged.

In that case, you could run the parallel voice coils at 100 a piece just like you have the Mark IV wiring depicted and that should still give you the headroom.

 

[Jepalan]

OP -
The way you have it drawn is correct. The MS A5001 is a monoblock (single channel) amp. The extra set of output terminals is connected internally to the other set, they are not driven by separate amp channels.

The MSA can handle a 2 ohm load just fine.

You have a dual voice coil (DVC) 4 ohm sub. If you wire it the way you have it pictured, it will be putting the coils in parallel so they will present a 2 ohm load to the MSA. You are NOT bridging the amp, so don't worry about what the other poster said.

You will be just fine wiring it exactly like your picture.

 

[Jepalan]

As far as power goes, you will be able to push 500W RMS into the sub usng the wiring as you have it pictured. This will be a great setup for this sub.

What kind of enclosure are you putting that MKIV in?

 

[Gomer Pilot]

Jep,

I was referring to the portion of his diagram where is he has the TM65s bridged off of the top 1004 about the bridged 2 ohm load.

The sub can be wired as shown or parallel inside the enclosure, either way achieves the same result.

 

[Jepalan]

Jep,

I was referring to the portion of his diagram where is he has the TM65s bridged off of the top 1004 about the bridged 2 ohm load.

The sub can be wired as shown or parallel inside the enclosure, either way achieves the same result.

Gomer -
Ah yes, I see. I thought OP was only asking about the sub.

That said, you should check the MS A10004 specs. It is actually rated to drive 200W bridged into 2 ohms. This can be found both in the user's manual and on the details page at crutchfield.

So OP should be OK bridging to 2 ohms as shown.

It is a rare thing to find a multi-channel amp that can bridge to 2 ohms. This one can

 

[Jepalan]

SPECS on MS-A1004...

RMS Power Output (Watts x Channels) 100 x 4
Peak Power Output (Watts x Channels) N/A
Power at 2 Ohms (Watts x Channels) 100 x 4
Bridged Power (Watts x Channels) 200 x 2
Minimum Impedance Bridged 2
Minimum Impedance Unbridged 2
Best Frequency Response 10-27000 Hz

 

[Gomer Pilot]

That's pretty nice. I couldn't find much info on it and didn't check the Crutchfield page. The JBL page only shows bridged at 4 and for some reason the manual wasn't available in english where I was, just the spec sheet.

I did the same thing you did initially and assumed he was only talking about the sub. Maybe he was, but then I noticed the 2 ohm bridged load and wondered about it.

 

[Jepalan]

That's pretty nice. I couldn't find much info on it and didn't check the Crutchfield page. The JBL page only shows bridged at 4 and for some reason the manual wasn't available in english where I was, just the spec sheet.

I did the same thing you did initially and assumed he was only talking about the sub. Maybe he was, but then I noticed the 2 ohm bridged load and wondered about it.

Weird, the JBL EU and Harmon Blog sites contradict themselves, even within the same spec sheet.

Crutchfield has it listed as bridgeable to 2-ohms consistently in 3 different places. This is from the feature page and matches the details page and the user's manual linked from crutchfield.

Product Highlights:
4-channel car amplifier
100 watts RMS x 4 (2 to 4 ohms)
200 watts RMS x 2 (2 to 4 ohms)

Worse thing that could happen is amp goes into protect mode. Then OP would have to either power each VC separately, or bridge to 8-ohms instead of 2.

 

[SO20thCentury]

Hey thanks for the feedback! The flexibility of both the drivers and the amps I was hoping would provide a pretty good setup without pushing things too hard.
Funny about JBL providing different specs in different places! The specs I was going by came from the manual -in English
So using the dual outputs of the 5001 to each VC would provide no benefit? The wire run will be pretty short so that's no factor for me.
My buddy who does fiberglass & carbon fiber fabbing has offered to build me a form-fitting enclosure. He's not done a speaker enclosure before but he does nice fairings and panels of all sorts. Any tips there?

 

[Gomer Pilot]

Someone else may be able to shine more light on it, but from my understanding, it would provide the exact same thing as wiring in parallel at the voice coils. It's handy if maybe you are running two subs in parallel from the amp, but for a DVC sub, I don't see any benefit.

A fiberglass form fitting enclosure in a civic hatch will be sweet.

 

[Jepalan]

So using the dual outputs of the 5001 to each VC would provide no benefit? The wire run will be pretty short so that's no factor for me.

The only benefit I can think of is if you had speaker wire on hand that was slightly too small a gauge, then making two runs means each run is taking half the current. Otherwise no advantage I can think of. Wire it whatever way is easiest.