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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My amp is rated at 125x2 (sundown 125.2 to match my sub amp)

I can only use 2.5" max depth midranges or i'll run into the window if i go much deeper, even with trim rings =(

I was considering the Rainbow SLC or Germanium line. I know there is a big price difference so i'm not sure it's worth the more expensive ones. Also the Morel dotech 6s but they want 140rms. I'd rather overpower the SLCs than underpower the dotechs i think.

Price should be at most $600 or so.

I listen to mostly rock now. Hiphop will be occasionally played to show off my subs. SQ is important but I dont need 1000$ drivers either.

I would like good midbass and a softer tweeter. My last set of comps were Crystal Mobilesound CSC60s and I was happy but had to sell them. I would like to not go south from that in terms of quality.

I'm also not opposed to trying a custom setup of scan-speak, seas, or any other of what i would consider "specialty" brands. if this would require another 125.2 amp and bi-amplification or active crossovers (not really up to speed on active crossing) i can head that direction too. I can also run 2ohm stuff but i'm not sure that's frequently done for component speakers.

Subs will be two RE SE 12" sealed off about 1600w

thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
acura integra 2000 LS coupe

i had 2.75" in there before (the crystals) with a .75" spacer and the surrounds were nearly touching the door grilles.

i've read that i only have 2" to work with on the factory mount before i hit the window.

i dont have the door apart right now so i cant measure.
 

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cdt es 626i. excellent set... i have the es6 and drt26 and there sweet..
 

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The Rainbow Sound Line sound better than the Dotechs. I've compared them in the same setup. Both the SLC and SAC outperform the Dotechs. The passives are also very flexible and tunable.

Not sure where you get your figure for what Dotechs "want"... but in my test setup was running 130x2.

Won't go wrong with Germaniums either, of course.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The Rainbow Sound Line sound better than the Dotechs. I've compared them in the same setup. Both the SLC and SAC outperform the Dotechs. The passives are also very flexible and tunable.

Not sure where you get your figure for what Dotechs "want"... but in my test setup was running 130x2.

Won't go wrong with Germaniums either, of course.
perhaps i'll look at the SLC kick 6.5. i really dont know if another 300$ for germanium is worth it. i'm not competing, i just want good midbass and a non-harsh tweet

for the record i usually dont demo speakers since once they are in the car it changes. plus i dont have the time or the money to swap **** out. a speaker with a reputation is fine and my ears will adjust.
 

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perhaps i'll look at the SLC kick 6.5. i really dont know if another 300$ for germanium is worth it. i'm not competing, i just want good midbass and a non-harsh tweet

for the record i usually dont demo speakers since once they are in the car it changes. plus i dont have the time or the money to swap **** out. a speaker with a reputation is fine and my ears will adjust.
Instead of chasing around different brands of speakers maybe you should consider what you mentioned in the first post; bi-ampable comps.

I had a set that I never bothered trying biamped...would always run them the 'regular' way not really giving any thought to the benefits of bi-amp.

But the ability to tweek your hi-pass and more so, the ability to properly set gains between tweet and mid is pretty worth it. Especially if you don't wanna upgrade to an active deck.

anyway, just something to mull over as it's something I only recently started playing with and I was pleasantly surprised. Tried it with a set of speakers that most people today consider 'harsh sounding'. But my results were great.

Truth be told, on a day to day basis...I ditch the passives and run full active but that's only because I'm a little backwords. Jumped into a fully active 4way system right off the hop and now I'm playing around with 'older' or traditional passive xovers for ****s and gigles.
 

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perhaps i'll look at the SLC kick 6.5. i really dont know if another 300$ for germanium is worth it. i'm not competing, i just want good midbass and a non-harsh tweet

for the record i usually dont demo speakers since once they are in the car it changes. plus i dont have the time or the money to swap **** out. a speaker with a reputation is fine and my ears will adjust.
the rainbow tweeters are airy a bit sharper than yhe cdt.. the cdt is abit dull but its not a bad thing because it emphasis the midrange alot better than the hard dome tweeters.. its still accurate, not quite as accurate as the rainbow of focal 52, but the midrange sound more natural and transparant then ETHIER set mentioned.. the next step up at moderate volumes are the dls topline set and the dynaudio esotec, for the money though you will be hard pressed to find a better laid back loud set...only problem is they really like power.. the set i mentioned like medium sealed boxes and about 180 per side.
 

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also id highly recommend goibg with a 4 channel amp with built in xovers to run them active...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
i realize i probably should have waited on my amp purchase until i got front speakers. sigh

thanks for the replies

i'm probably going to go with the rainbow SLC 6.5" comps (the kick version) or the 3way if i decide i want to modify my door panels to accomodate the midrange
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
as i look into this more, it appears i am better running active.

what i think i need is one more amp (2 2channel amps)

then instead of buying the component 'set' and using the passive xover i just buy the separate woofer and tweet that would normally be in that set?

this then lets me run double the power (instead of splitting it at the passive xover) and allows me to fine tune the xover points?

i'm leaning (to keep things simple) to go with the separates for the rainbow SLC set

EDIT: now the SAC line seems to have a bit beefier or better woofer, i might go with that. still not convinced i need germaniums. again i'm only focusing on rainbow since they seem to be 2.4" deep.

remember i need 2.5" mounting depth max and i'm gonna be running 125 to each speaker

if you guys have better suggestions i'd appreciate it, i'm not opposed to mixing and matching custom speakers but you guys know what you're doing. i'd like to keep it around 300 to 400 for the speakers.

thanks again
 

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as i look into this more, it appears i am better running active.

Uh, yeah.

what i think i need is one more amp (2 2channel amps)
Yeah.

then instead of buying the component 'set' and using the passive xover i just buy the separate woofer and tweet that would normally be in that set?
If you can. Not always cheaper... sometimes you buy the set w/xover and sell the xover or put it away. Not the end of the world...

this then lets me run double the power (instead of splitting it at the passive xover)
To me this is not the prime motivation and is an inaccurate representation. I think you would be better with 50x4 than 100x2 in terms of SQ< even if performance at higher volumes might not be the same in the bass region.

i'm leaning (to keep things simple) to go with the separates for the rainbow SLC set
K.

if you guys have better suggestions i'd appreciate it, i'm not opposed to mixing and matching custom speakers but you guys know what you're doing. i'd like to keep it around 300 to 400 for the speakers.

thanks again
Once you go active, you CAN get great performance by mixing and matching (how the best home speakers arae made). But lots of research and T&E is required. Gotta start somewhere...
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
thx for quick reply

are the speakers in the component "sets" 4 ohm each or 8 ohm? as you said, throw the crossover away, but to see 4ohms (for the set) wouldn't each speaker have to be 8?

as for the mixing and matching, i was hoping to get some opinions on what setups generally work better than others, given say a primary music of rock, and the power i'll be running, also softer tweeters are preferred and good midbass is a must
 

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thx for quick reply

are the speakers in the component "sets" 4 ohm each or 8 ohm? as you said, throw the crossover away, but to see 4ohms (for the set) wouldn't each speaker have to be 8?

as for the mixing and matching, i was hoping to get some opinions on what setups generally work better than others, given say a primary music of rock, and the power i'll be running, also softer tweeters are preferred and good midbass is a must
Impedance is a function of frequency. Resistance is constsnt regardless of frrquency.

If you look at the spec sheet for a driver (many available at Madisound), there is usually a graph with output by freq and also impedance by freq.

So a woofer that is "nominal" 4 ohms will be 4 ohms in its operating range - except at its resonant freq, the note it electromechanically "wants" to vibrate at more than all the rest. At that freq, the impedance will show a peak. Also, where the woofer starts to roll off at its top end, its impedance climbs as its output drops.

It could be 3.9 ohms at 40, 12 ohms at 60, 3.8 ohms at 100, and 9 oh$s at 300, and be called "4 ohms".

So passive xovers restrict speaker operation to defined bands. This means that their impredances don't overlap if their operating bands don't overlap. It is actually much more complexan because passives work by causing a rising impedance above or below a given freq.

But a 2-way passive set with 4 ohm drivers and a 2-way xover is still a 4-ohm load.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
bought a 2nd 125.2 today (couldnt return the other and get a 4channel)

my idea is to run the 'front' output from my alpine cda9815 at highpass 80hz 12db (maybe 18db) to the first 125.2 amp and then use the output of that amp to feed the input of the 2nd 125.2

the first amp would be for the woofers and do lowpass at the desired xover freq (tbd) and the 2nd amp would be highpass at the same freq (to begin with)

how accurate are builtin crossover freq knobs? is there a technique to verify what freq you have actually selected?

my guess would be using a test tone at the selected xover freq and audibly tell when it starts to dip.

would adding a product like the audiocontrol EQS before the amps help me much? i'm not sure how much i'd use the EQ but i'm thinking the line driver portion is a good idea. i read that on my specific head unit, the sub out is not 4v, just the front/rear. it is only 1.5v at max.
 
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