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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I used to have a Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart with an affordable but truly amazing sounding system. It was a setup with active crossover and time delay (diligently calibrated) with Hertz HSK 6.5's (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KOYXGC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) which are just okay by themselves, but I threw out the tweeters and paired the 6.5's with ScanSpeak Illuminator D2004/6020-00 Tweeters (ScanSpeak Illuminator D2004/6020-00 Tweeter). I believe it was an active setup as I definitely used time delay (measuring and listening to calibrate), and also (I think?) digital crossover, and it was awesome. 15 inch sub, and lots of power to the mids and highs as well. Felt like being front row at a concert. Very loud and clear -- much more so than I thought was possible with as little money as I spent... at the time anyway. Used a lot of sound dampening (deadening?) mat. Did some sealing and rattle-elimination with foam as well. It had a Kenwood head unit with time delay and active crossover capability (is that a built-in DSP?) (I may have been using passive crossover but I'm 99% certain it was active, though an earlier setup before I got the Scanspeak Illuminator tweeters definitely used the passive crossover) but I can't remember the exact Kenwood head unit model number -- I bought it around 2015, I believe. Also it had a Sundown SA-15 with a Kicker 1000w amp. And for the mids+tweets power I used a Precision Power PPI P900.4 -- absolutely amazing amp for the price; apparently the designer for this model is different than the rest of the Precision Power product line, and it shines as a fantastic amp, at least at the time when I bought it in 2015-2016 or so, and it was recognized as such on caraudio.com and diyma, the latter of which (this site) unfortunately I can't remember my username for, or if I was even a member, and my emails have changed, but I can maybe do some digging if need be, but I'm just using this new account now... but my username on caraudio.com was Jakerrr.

Sorry for the run-on sentences! :LOL:

Also I had a pretty decent battery and the big 3 upgrade. I sometimes switched out the Kicker 1000w sub amp for a Taramps HD4000 (both of which I still own) but I generally preferred the kicker -- mainly due to the fan noise on the HD4000 and the lack of an alternator upgrade that could allow me to draw even half of that 4000wrms anyway...

I still own most of the above, and will be using it in my current car -- 1993 Roadmaster. I have all the above except for: the car (Lancer), the 6.5's, the Kenwood head unit, and the speaker wire, battery, and 0 gauge (or is it 000 gauge?) cable/wire for the sub and the big 3 upgrade.



Music taste is all over the place. Pink Floyd, Ariana Grande, Nirvana, Shania Twain, Mozart, Blackmill, Volbeat, The Corrs, A Day To Remember, Halsey, Lady A, Kacey Musgraves, Demi Lovato, etc.



Okay, let me condense that... I still have: the SA-15 sub (and octoport 32 hz box), Kicker 1000w sub amp (ZX1000.1), PPI P900.4 amp, and the Illuminator tweeters. But nothing else. And I'll be using all that. I have the taramps hd4000 but won't be using it unless I am convinced otherwise... or if anyone wants to buy it -- I guess that counts as "use" lol.

So what do I need now? My battery (and probably alternator) is not great. I would assume the head unit should be the Pioneer 80PRS... but I can't find any for sale. Any other head units on par with this? I just need one with time delay and active crossover capability, unless I just use a passive crossover, or unless I can use a DSP separate from the head unit? And I need speaker wire, and 0 (is that right?) gauge wire for the Kicker ZX1000.1 sub amp and maybe big 3 upgrade, probably a battery (might not be able to afford battery and big 3 just yet but I can likely afford the rest, so I just won't push it with the volume), and of course the mids... The Roadmaster uses 4x6's. And I'd need tweeter mounts, unless I just use a 2(or 3)-way setup all in the 4x6's unit. Any way you think I could gouge the speaker housing to fit 6.5's? If it's too much trouble, I'll just use the 4x6's and get tweeter mounts. And get a crossover but preferably get a head unit with active crossover and time delay -- or is it best to just get a DSP? And of course deadening mat, and foam (can't remember what that special foam is called, but I might have some of the good stuff left over anyway). And maybe sealing the doors so the rear phase doesn't cancel out the forward phase -- but I don't know how to do that and will probably need to hire the local car audio shop unless I'm convinced of its ease of installation. If I were more financially independent I'd be going all out, but that will have to wait.

Any recommendations? Particularly for a head unit with time delay and active crossover -- or, if it's better, just a basic head unit + a DSP. And the 4x6's.

Let me know if I left anything out?

Thanks a ton!
 

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Most decent aftermarket radios have TA and crossovers. Still better to have a separate DSP. Dayton Audio offers one in the $150.00 range. Door deadening and covering the holes in the doors will be the first step. Do this even before buying speakers as it will even make the factory speakers sound better. Do the doors yourself to save some money. Lots of videos on this. Contact Nick Apicella (@SkizeR) to purchase Resonix. Nick owns the company and his products outperform most if not all others.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Most decent aftermarket radios have TA and crossovers. Still better to have a separate DSP. Dayton Audio offers one in the $150.00 range. Door deadening and covering the holes in the doors will be the first step. Do this even before buying speakers as it will even make the factory speakers sound better. Do the doors yourself to save some money. Lots of videos on this. Contact Nick Apicella (@SkizeR) to purchase Resonix. Nick owns the company and his products outperform most if not all others.
Thanks for the reply. Current car has no sound equipment. The radio and the speakers are blown. Only very light static can be heard. So unfortunately the first step will be the last basically, because the current system is nothing. :LOL: i.e. I'll be doing it all at once. Thank you!
What is Resonix exactly? It appears to just be the deadening material, right? Either way, I'll take your advice on that.
 

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Resonix is the company name and they supply everything you need to "Nix" Resonance. Since youre just getting back into this, keep it simple. Aftermarket Headunit, something with Carplay or AA. No need for TA or crossovers, that will be in the DSP. Get a 5 channel Amp with built in DSP. I like Helix or JL. Tweeter in dash, Mid Bass in door. One or two subs mounted IB in trunk.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Resonix is the company name and they supply everything you need to "Nix" Resonance. Since youre just getting back into this, keep it simple. Aftermarket Headunit, something with Carplay or AA. No need for TA or crossovers, that will be in the DSP. Get a 5 channel Amp with built in DSP. I like Helix or JL. Tweeter in dash, Mid Bass in door. One or two subs mounted IB in trunk.
Awesome. I'll be using my current amp -- PPI P900.4 -- as I can't imagine ever wanting something better. I loved it. (And I already have a Kicker ZX1000.1 sub amp and Sundown SA-15 woofer, which I've been very happy with, though I haven't used them in 4 years.) So my choices are either: 1. an aftermarket headunit + a "stand-alone" DSP or 2. an aftermarket headunit with built-in DSP. No amp with built-in DSP, unfortunately -- not that I'm against it but cost is an issue and I already have a really great amp (more than good enough for me, anyway).

EDIT: LOL I just inspected my amp for the first time in years -- it very clearly has fully active crossovers built-in. Forgot about that... So I guess the DSP/headunit will just be for the time alignment. Or could I just "de-active" the amp and just run it through the DSP's/headunit's x-over? Since the sub's amp is a bit delayed relative to the 4 channel amp (has always been my experience with car audio, anyway, and I've had several systems before getting to the previous one which was perfect), I definitely need time alignment for the setup I'm aiming for. And of course time alignment is wonderful for the mids and highs as well due to the differences in distance from listening position.

What is carplay and AA? And what does AA stand for (as it's hard to search for what that is without the abbreviation being spelled out)? Will it be obvious from looking at the specs whether or not a headunit has those capabilities? And do most of them have it? I did extensive research years ago, but forgot most of my acquired knowledge, yet what I do remember is that the Pioneer 80PRS would be perfect for me. Basically... is there a modern-day equivalent of the 80prs? --Surely there are others pretty much just like it, if not better, right?

Thanks again; I really, really appreciate the info. :)
 

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Apple carplay and Android Auto are on most new headunits. It allows you to use a lot of the apps on your phone through the headunit. Google maps or Waze come to mind. That PPI amp is a great amp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Apple carplay and Android Auto are on most new headunits. It allows you to use a lot of the apps on your phone through the headunit. Google maps or Waze come to mind.
Oh, okay. Thanks.
That PPI amp is a great amp.
For real! I can't remember how much I bought it for but I think it was like $160, brand new. Maybe more, maybe less, but an absolute steal, nonetheless. More than enough power for anything I'd ever want to do. Even when ridiculously, stupid loud there is still tons of headroom, and it's clean. This is probably a lifer amp for me lol, until (if) it dies. I'm sure there's probably better out there, but I'm not interested, lol.

If the doors can only fit 4x6's, as appears to be the case, any recommendations for a good 4x6 speaker? (Can a system get nice and loud even with such small speakers?) Certainly under $400 for both but preferably way, way less -- like $60 each, if that's possible. Or do you think I could hollow out the speaker housing and fit 6.5's without too much trouble? I've never done any work like that, but I'm willing to try if it's necessary to build the system I'm used to, which always uses 6.5 mids. But if I can get some pretty good sound with just 4x6's, I'm open to that as well, as it would be the far simpler option.
 

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I don't think a 4x6 will get very loud or very low. Show us a picture of the door with the door card removed. Maybe there are some modifications that can be done. You also have an option to make custom kick panels for an even larger speaker (8-10 inches)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Bump

Unfortunately the kick panels are a no go -- parking brake gets in the way, for starters. But I actually was mistaken on the 4x6 in. The door speakers are actually 5.25 in.

I don't think a 4x6 will get very loud or very low. Show us a picture of the door with the door card removed. Maybe there are some modifications that can be done. You also have an option to make custom kick panels for an even larger speaker (8-10 inches)
Would 5.25 in be pretty close in loudness and quality to 6.5's? I have the ability to give them far more than enough power. I'm hoping I'll just be able to fit the 6.5's. And I know this is diYma but I don't even know if I'll be installing it myself. I might try.
 

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If you can fit a 3/4" ring between the steel and the door panel, or on top of it, you can easily fit a 6.5 in place of a 5.25...

A 5.25 is a midrange speaker. A 8" is a midbass. A 6.5 is a kludge between the two, not quite good at either. Depending on how low you can cross your tweeters and where they are positioned, a 6.5 down low in the door may not play high enough to allow for a good blend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
If you can fit a 3/4" ring between the steel and the door panel, or on top of it, you can easily fit a 6.5 in place of a 5.25...

A 5.25 is a midrange speaker. A 8" is a midbass. A 6.5 is a kludge between the two, not quite good at either. Depending on how low you can cross your tweeters and where they are positioned, a 6.5 down low in the door may not play high enough to allow for a good blend.
Thanks. If I had the space I'd be using 8G40's and some HLCD's, in addition to the 15 inch subwoofer which I'll be using regardless. But I think the largest "mids" I can use would be 6.5's. I'd greatly prefer to use pro audio drivers but given the space I'll very likely be using components -- since, as far as I remember, smaller pro audio drivers tend not to get particularly low. The Hertz HSK 165s were WAY plenty loud enough to my ear (though I "overpowered" the crap out of them) when paired with the Illuminators. I think I had them crossed at -12db 3khz. Any recommendations for a 6.5? Or 5.25. Great bang-for-your-buck type stuff if possible, but still very high quality and good sound -- my favorite aspect of this hobby is finding those products lol (I remember how shocked I was when switching from JL/etc to Scanspeak/Sundown/Beyma/PPI/Hertz at how one can build an amazing system with hardly any money compared to what it would cost with more "prestigious" brands). They'd be paired with Illuminator tweeters which I have already, with plenty of power, and here are the specs for the tweeter:
Rectangle Slope Font Plot Line

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Zero experience with this driver but if you have the depth to mount it, it seems like it may be the best of both worlds for you. People really like the 7" version with a few mentions of the smaller version being just as good, relatively speaking.

 
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