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Discussion Starter #1
As the title suggests, I am struggling to put together a system for my 05 Corvette. My original thought was to take advantage of the fact the doors have a 10" and a 3" already in them from the factory. I figured, hell with a 10" mid bass + a 3" wideband and maybe some small tweets in the pillars for the very top, top end, I could get away with no sub in the back. Not much room for lots of stuff in the back anyways, and could do without the clutter. This would help keep the appearance of stock to prying up-to-no-good eyes looking to snatch and grab.

I am going to get a DD head unit, most likely the Kenwood 418, again, to remain stock in appearance. I have purchased the PPI DCX730 for processing. Also already purchased are a AR duo, planning on using just the AR3Ks. I have a few tweets on the way to tinker with, SEAS 27TAFNCG, Dayton ND20FB, and I already have some Morel MTD29 laying around, oh and some Hertz ML28s. I may even not run tweet, all depends on how I feel the AR3s perform up top.

My head-ache is coming from trying to understand what #s to look at to determine what kind of 10 or even 8 inch driver for the door that is going to give enough lows so that I don't go running out to buy a sub for the hatch :D I have been looking and searching and reading all over about 10" drivers, mostly pro style drivers ie: Faitals, B&Cs, 18sounds, the new Sundown neo pros, and a few others. I keep being confused by all the different numbers they all have and whether they will work IB in doors. The new ones from Jacob are made for that exact purpose. The others are designed for home speakers or guitar amps. Also most of these all have a frequency range of somewhere around 65-80 on one end and 2000-7000 on the other.

Anyways....feel free to educate me on what I am not understanding as far as what #s I need to look at to help me decide. Suggest #s, models, drivers I haven't mentioned or even if what I am looking for is possible:confused: Is the 65-80 throwing me off when it does not need too? I seem to always have my subs crossed at anywhere from 45-63 in the past. Am I looking at that wrong?

Any and all help is appreciated, unless you don't have any idea what you are talking about :p I haven't been around as long as most but long enough to know usernames that are knowledgeable;)

Thank you
Jman
 

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Peerless SLS or a pro audio driver for the 10", and brace your doors with angle iron or something IMO because you're going to rely on them for all of your sound and they will be vibrating much more than most doors. And of course a generous amount of CLD.

For the midrange, you're pretty much locked to car audio drivers if you want to run much power. I haven't really auditioned many of those so I can't say much. I've only used 3-4"s in home audio speakers, not needing much power.

How much depth do you have available for the 10" woofer?
 

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Sounds like an exciting plan j-man. The only Vette I've sat in is the one Jeremy did for his customer. That particular one (convertible) has the JL stealth boxes in the back. 2-8s was strong in that car.
I would bet the JL IB8s of yesteryear would work well, HAT L8s or the new HAT Imagine 8 or 6.5 inch subs that they just released.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Haven't even had the panel off yet to measure depth. Great point and something I will find out soon. A lot of these drivers are pretty shallow and lightweight, something I have been looking at. Don't want 12-18 pound speakers in the door :eek: I have been looking at the various tiles, closed cell foam, et al. as well.

Hey Kendall! Yeah, I have read Tarheel1 and Jeremys thread a half dozen times or more :D Haven't heard the car but I am sure a couple 8s or a single 10 would pound in that small space. After it is all said and done, I still may go with a sub in the back. Lots of box set-ups out there that still allow top storage in the back and room for a little bit of groceries, suitcase, etc etc. Really trying not to go that way though. Maybe old age??? Nah!! haha I still love my sh!t loud as hell! I will have a system in my coffin ;)

I have never heard of those, but I will check out the link and see what is up.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Oh, and Kendall, you are not the first to suggest HAT L8s. I missed out on a pair a week or so ago in the classifieds. I have been going back and forth on new toys for the Vette. One week audio, one week go fast or appearance :D I snoozed on the L8s cause I was buying a CAI and someone else jumped on them :mean: :D
 

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I echo the previous statement about ensuring the doors are extremely well dampened / reinforced to manage the amount of energy that will be in there with larger cone drivers. You may end up getting great low bass out of the doors, but never getting the nuisance rattles under control.

With the 6" drivers in the doors - you can have solid baffles and plenty of air space to make the mid bass drivers play very well. If you have enough room in the back for a solid sub install, may end up being your best play.

Sorry I can speak intelligently about TS Parameters and what numbers to evaluate for the best choice of 10's or 8's to go in the doors.
 

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Yes, they are appropriate for use as a woofer in a 3-way system. Not in a 2-way, of course.
Or a 2-way with 3" wide band driver? These things look amazing to me. I am surprised they're not used more. If I had a car with 10 inch speakers in my door, I would be all over these given the reputation of normal Peerless XLS subwoofers.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks, I hadn't seen that SLS before :) #s seem good, not that I really understand them all. Not sure that the AR3s would go down low enough to pick up from the 10 since the SLS only play 45-700 hz?? :confused:
 

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i have a friend thats selling a set of DLS Iridium 8'' 3-way components that he previously had installed in his dodge. hands down, best sounding speakers i have ever heard... if you are interested, shoot me a PM with your zip code and i can get you a shipped price :D
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for the offer on the DLS but I will pass :)

I still would like to hear which #s I should be looking at to decide which driver would work bet IB in a well deadend door :confused:
 

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For me drivers with Qts >0.4 work best for me IB in the doors and if you are looking to run a system without a subwoofer find one with the lowest FS...good luck ;) :p
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks Mark:cool: I thought FS was one of the #s to look at.


I need more than luck! haha This stuffs been robbing my sleep time! Although, my biggest problem at the moment appears to be my other addiction, buying aftermarket parts for the rest of the car :rolleyes: May pick up some wheels tomorrow :laugh:
 

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I kind of wonder though.. how much bass can doors take before they start to rattle loudly? It's not just the panels. There are locks, window actuators, etc. All this stuff will eventually start to rattle. A lot of doors will rattle even with a 6.5 midbass installed. I assume 05 Corvette is better built but still trying to push a lot of sub bass through doors seems a little excessive. I'd consider leaving the factory 10" midbass speakers as is, and try to install a compact subwoofer in the trunk. Some will give you nice results with only 0.5 cubes of space. Also did you look into using free air subwoofers mounted on the rear deck, or IB subs?
 

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Maybe he can seal up his doors using CLD and CCF without replacing the 10"s
 
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