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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a new daily driver and it came with an alarm/remote start that I would love to put in before winter. The car is a 2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS with a manual transmission (no factory alarm) and the alarm is a Viper 5706v. It came with a few extras too the guy said I would need to install it. Some sort of key bypass (dei 556u) and a battery back-up (dei 520t). It also came with a glass break sensor (dei 506t) and a 2 smaller piezo sirens.

Well I went to the local audio shop and to hook everything up they quoted me like half of what I paid for the car! Lol So I would like to try and install this myself. I'm pretty confused to be honest. Lol Mostly on what wires I need to be using from the alarms harnesses. Like I've found most the wires in my car already at the ignition and above the fuse box that I will need to use. I'm mostly confused on which wires from the alarms harnesses I need to be hooking up and which ones can I de-pin. I know alot of the wires won't be used so if someone could help me with which wires I could just depin and get rid of all together that would help a ton. That way I can focus on what I actually need to be hooking up and start from there. I attached a couple pics of the alarm wiring diagram and my cars wiring diagram. Thanks for any help in advance!
 

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Main harness, 4,6 not needed
Doorlock harness, both needed
Aux harness, 1-4, 6-9,11, 16-19, 21-24 not needed
RS harness 3 not needed, 4 possibly if your car has a second ignition/accessory not litsted in your diagram.

I never de-pin security/rs installs, just trim the spare wires to about two inches and tape/shrink them individually. You might need one of those extra connections down the road.

You will need to diode isolate both door pins if you use the instant trigger for the hatch.

You can connect pin 3 of the aux harness to your negative door trigger to turn on the domelight when you disarm, but it's not necessary for the RS/security to function.

What was the labor quote?
 

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Check the battery manufacture date if you decide to install the 520t. Not really a necessary item for a daily driver IMO.

Add a relay for the sirens should you decide to install more than 2.
I had sirens collecting dust so I added a total of 6 to my work truck. No minis though.
2 under hood one in front bumper 2 in rear bumper and one interior.
Loud and unique sounding. I know when it's my alarm going off....the remote also alerts me.

A tilt sensor is something I had always considered adding but never have....even after watching my truck being towed in silemce...til the 1st speed bump.

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Dang, this is harder than I expected. Lol

Well I got a few things wired up. I ran the siren and hood pin in the engine bay. I also ran the antenna up by the rear view mirror and mounted the piezo siren under the dash.

For the main harness I connected the #1 red wire on alarm harness to a unused constant 12v terminal at the fuse box. #2 black wire on alarm harness I grounded to a factory ground. #3 brown wire on alarm harness I split in to 2 wires and ran each one to the power on my two sirens and grounded the sirens. And then finally I hooked the #5 white wire on the alarm up to the parking lamp (+) green/white wire at the driver kick panel.

I also got the door lock harness wired. I ran the #1 blue wire from harness to to the green/red (unlock) wire in the driver kick panel. Then I ran the #3 green wire from harness to the violet wire (lock) in the driver kick panel.

Thats about as far as I got. Hopefully I did that all right. But after that, I wasn't sure what to do. For the auxiliary harness wires you told me to use I'm not sure what to do with some of them.

#5 - dark blue wire [(-)200mA status output] What do I connect this wire to and what does it do?

#10 - blue wire. [(-) trunk pin/instant trigger input]
What do I do with this exactly? Is this what I needed diodes on?

#12 - violet/white wire. [Tachometer input]
Where do I connect this wire to exactly?

#13 - black/white wire. [E-brake input]
I didn't see a location or color mentioned in that wiring diagram for the e brake input wire. Would i connect this to the wire on the e brake handle directly? It only has one wire coming off it, a yellow/green one. I'm assuming that's where I connect to.

#14 - green/black wire [(-) 200mA factory alarm disarm output]
Do I really need to hook this up if my car doesn't have the factory alarm? If so, what do I hook it up to?

#15 - green wire [(-) door input]
How do I hook this up? Do I connect this to my door triggers? If so, how?


I also noticed you say to not use the horn honk and hood pin input. Any reason you suggest not using them? I already ran my hood pin. I can take it out if its not really needed though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Check the battery manufacture date if you decide to install the 520t. Not really a necessary item for a daily driver IMO.

Add a relay for the sirens should you decide to install more than 2.
I had sirens collecting dust so I added a total of 6 to my work truck. No minis though.
2 under hood one in front bumper 2 in rear bumper and one interior.
Loud and unique sounding. I know when it's my alarm going off....the remote also alerts me.

A tilt sensor is something I had always considered adding but never have....even after watching my truck being towed in silemce...til the 1st speed bump.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
I only ended up running 2 sirens for now. One regular one under the hood and one piezo under the dash. I might hook up the horn honk if its not loud enough. I kinda thought the battery back up was a good idea though. Just incase they cut power real quick id like the alarm to keep going off. I doubt anyone would keep messing with it after that.
 

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I only ended up running 2 sirens for now. One regular one under the hood and one piezo under the dash. I might hook up the horn honk if its not loud enough. I kinda thought the battery back up was a good idea though. Just incase they cut power real quick id like the alarm to keep going off. I doubt anyone would keep messing with it after that.[/QUOTEI hear ya but check the battery manufacture date before installing. There are a lot of old ones out there that may not have much life left after sitting for years sometimes.

IMO most people tune out alarms blaring from hearing them so often. My setup eliminates the "Is that my alarm going off?"

My interior siren is just to annoy anyone that chooses to burgle my work truck.
 

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status out goes to the 556u. Lets the bypass know when the remote start is active.

trunk pin goes to the wiring at your hatch light

tach goes to a white wire in a one pin connector in the underhood fuse box. Alternatly you can program the rs for timed start and not use this wire.

ebrake input goes to the wire at the ebrake

factory disarm isn't needed if you're sure there is no OEM alarm.

door input gets connectes to both door pin wires, you must isolate the two OEM wires with diodes.(driver/passenger door trigger in your wire chart)

You can use the horn honk, but dei uses a pulse thats too long by default, I think it's programmable for faster timing though. I never use it if there is a siren.

I hate the cheap hoodpins that come with these alarms, a little surface rust three months later they dont work anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
status out goes to the 556u. Lets the bypass know when the remote start is active.

trunk pin goes to the wiring at your hatch light

tach goes to a white wire in a one pin connector in the underhood fuse box. Alternatly you can program the rs for timed start and not use this wire.

ebrake input goes to the wire at the ebrake

factory disarm isn't needed if you're sure there is no OEM alarm.

door input gets connectes to both door pin wires, you must isolate the two OEM wires with diodes.(driver/passenger door trigger in your wire chart)

You can use the horn honk, but dei uses a pulse thats too long by default, I think it's programmable for faster timing though. I never use it if there is a siren.

I hate the cheap hoodpins that come with these alarms, a little surface rust three months later they dont work anyways.
Okay, cool. I haven't started with the remote start harness/556u yet so I'm sure I'll have more questions when I get to that. I'm good at soldering and running wires but I quickly realized beyond that I don't really know what I'm doing. Lol

So I cut the hood pin/horn honk/factory alarm wires off the auxiliary harness. For the brake pedal/e-brake/trunk pin wires do I actually have to go to those locations for my connections or is there a more convenient area up front in the dash/kick panel area I can attach to? I guess the brake pedal/e-brake wires wouldn't be bad, but id rather not run a wire all the way back to the trunk for the trunk pin if I can avoid it.

And im still not sure what to do with the green wire. I've never used a diode before. I'm assuming I just take 2 diodes and connect them to the green wire and run each one to each door trigger. What kind of diode do I use exactly? I know diodes only flow one way, which way do the need to go exactly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
And I probably won't install the battery back up, it says its from 2011. I'm thinking a 10 year old battery isn't going to do much. I think I'll just add a siren with a battery back up later if I'm worried about it.

What do you guys think about the glass break sensor? Is that worth hooking up? I know you can break a window pretty quietly and that sensor should still pick it up. But as soon as a door or trunk gets opened or any vibration is detected the alarm should go off anyway so I'm not sure if that's really needed or not.
 

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Your wiring diagram has the locations of the wires listed.

Any small rectifier diode should be fine. I attached a pic from 12volt.com showing how to use them.

Glass break isn't hard to install, might as well use it.
 

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I hate the cheap hoodpins that come with these alarms, a little surface rust three months later they dont work anyways.
I concur.
I pulled a oem hood pin switch from a JY donor truck for my install specifically for this reason.


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And I probably won't install the battery back up, it says its from 2011. I'm thinking a 10 year old battery isn't going to do much. I think I'll just add a siren with a battery back up later if I'm worried about it.

What do you guys think about the glass break sensor? Is that worth hooking up? I know you can break a window pretty quietly and that sensor should still pick it up. But as soon as a door or trunk gets opened or any vibration is detected the alarm should go off anyway so I'm not sure if that's really needed or not.
Use it.
A lot of thieves will break a window and grab the goods without disturbing shock sensors or opening doors.

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Your wiring diagram has the locations of the wires listed.

Any small rectifier diode should be fine. I attached a pic from 12volt.com showing how to use them.

Glass break isn't hard to install, might as well use it.
I mainly use the 1n404

I can't believe that I still have this. See pic.
They're no longer made.


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The DEI 508D come in handy for additional protection also.
They're not just for jeeps and convertibles.

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Thanks for the help so far guys, I definitely would be in over my head trying to do this by myself. I'll wire in the glass break sensor too. Looks easy, just add it to your shock sensor. I completely forgot I need a key for the 556u and I only have one. So I'll need to have a key made and get some diodes tomorrow.

And I havent even tried yet but might as well plan it out now. How do I wire up the remote start and 556u exactly? The 556u looks easy. It only has 6 wires on its harness and the manual says 3 are optional. Is that right? Do I just have to connect the red 12v, black ground, and blue input wire and not use the other 3? And do I have to use the ring around the ignition or can I connect it to my car directly? The manual says some cars you can cut the ring off and hardwire it, I just don't know which method I should use for my car. This whole style of bypass seems weird. Lol

And im pretty confused on which wires go where on the remote start harness honestly. All the different ignition and accessory wires, I get confused. Lol I know you guys said I don't need to use pin 3 or 4 and pin 1 is empty. So what about the other 7 wires on the harness? If someone could tell me where those wires on the r/s harness need to be connected to on my car that would be awesome. I took my ignition harness apart so I can easily see all the wires I need, Im just not sure where each wire on the r/s harness needs to connect in the car exactly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Oh, and I forgot to ask earlier but how can I hook up my rear defrost to be able to be turned on with the remote start? That would be a awesome feature to have for the winter months.
 

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What kind of diode do I use exactly? I know diodes only flow one way, which way do the need to go exactly?
You don't need anything more than the 1n404 diodes.

I suggest heading to www.the12volt.com and do some research to learn a lil about 12v installs before diving head first into unknown waters. Plenty of diagrams there to took at.

In no way am I trying to be condescending.

And by no means am I a professional certified installer or anything even close. I just prefer installing my own and the aforementioned website was very helpful for me when I wanted to learn ...and I still get confused with wiring up relays, diodes and whatnot since installs are few and far between for me.

I used to tell people "Just don't look under my dash." after my first few installs.

Everything worked but the rat nest of wires was comical.
Nowadays my installs are so much more clean and I'm not afraid to try things to make things how I want them. My Uniden R3 install is something I'm quite proud of.

I've always been very grateful to folks like @SSinstaller for the sharing of knowledge.

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On the main ignition harness all the red wires are 12v input, pink is ignition out, green is starter in, violet is starter out, and orange is accessory out.
 

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Defrost is yellow/red at the hvac controls. It is a negative trigger. The diagram doesn't show if it's momentary or latched so you'll have to test for that.
 
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