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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
On the main ignition harness all the red wires are 12v input, pink is ignition out, green is starter in, violet is starter out, and orange is accessory out.
Thats what the manual says too, my problem is I don't know where these are supposed to connect to in the car though. I guess I just dont understand the terminology. So do all the fused red wires just go to a constant 12v? Because I thought they each got hooked up to different ignition/accessory wires for their 12v.

The green and violet wires make sense (connect to each side of my black/red (+) starter wire at ignition harness)

But then I also don't understand what the orange and pink wires do exactly. You say pink is ignition out and orange is accessory out. So do I just connect the pink wire to my ignition 1 wire (green +) at ignition harness and the orange wire to accessory 1 wire (blue/red +) at my ignition harness?
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Defrost is yellow/red at the hvac controls. It is a negative trigger. The diagram doesn't show if it's momentary or latched so you'll have to test for that.
I have no idea what any of this means. Lol I found the wire at the hvac controls but how do I test it to see if its momentary or latched? And how does it get connected to the alarm? Do just I just connect the wire to one of the auxiliary outputs on the auxiliary harness?
 

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Thats what the manual says too, my problem is I don't know where these are supposed to connect to in the car though. I guess I just dont understand the terminology. So do all the fused red wires just go to a constant 12v? Because I thought they each got hooked up to different ignition/accessory wires for their 12v.

All the red wires will go to the constant 12v in the ignition harness.

The green and violet wires make sense (connect to each side of my black/red (+) starter wire at ignition harness)

Yes

But then I also don't understand what the orange and pink wires do exactly. You say pink is ignition out and orange is accessory out. So do I just connect the pink wire to my ignition 1 wire (green +) at ignition harness and the orange wire to accessory 1 wire (blue/red +) at my ignition harness?

Yes
Also, I think your car has a second ignition or acessory wire not listed it your diagram. You'll need to connect it for the remote start.
 

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I have no idea what any of this means. Lol I found the wire at the hvac controls but how do I test it to see if its momentary or latched? And how does it get connected to the alarm? Do just I just connect the wire to one of the auxiliary outputs on the auxiliary harness?
Set your meter to the continuity setting. One probe goes to the defrost wire, one to ground.
Press the defrost button.

If the meter tones when you press the button, and stops when you release the button, it's momentary. You'll need to connect it to one of the aux outputs and trigger it manually with your fob after the car is running.


If the meter tones when you press the button and continuies even after releasing the button it's latched. You can connect it to the -200ma ignition 1 output in the auxillary harness and it will turn on with the remote start..
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Okay cool. Thanks man, you've been a huge help. The remote start is what was confusing me the most. On all those power wires on the r/s harness I thought they needed to go to accessory and ignition 12v by the way they are described in the manual. So I was really confused what to do with the wires that are actually supposed to go to the accessory and ignition wires! This is my first time even looking at a alarm so its been alot to take in. Lol

I think I've pretty much got all the wiring figured out now. Only question I have left I guess is whats the best way to give a constant 12v to all these power wires? I have 3 for the remote start, one for the alarm brain, and one for the 556u. Should I really go to the ignition wire for all of them or is there a better method? I'd like to keep it as stealth as possible. But it just seems like alot to try and attach 5 power wires to same wire at the ignition harness. Just wondering if there's a better way to do it?
 

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The 556u and alarm12v leads can be tapped into the red 12v rs lead between the brain and the big fuse on that wire. The other two 12v wires can be tied together right after the fuses on those wires. Then you only have two 12v wires to attach to your ignition harnes.

If you have more than one 12v ignition wire attach one of the rs wires to each 12v wire in your cars harness.

The ignition harness is already powering everything the RS powers, so there is not harm connecting the Alram/RS to it.

Alarms are just a deterrent to stop the smash and grab/crackead thiefs. Any thief that knows enough to get under the dash and disconnect this stuff is going to get what he wants.
It's just a waste of time trying to get super creative hiding stuff, and it makes troubleshooting a nightmare if you have problems or want to add features later.

All your connections should be soldered, no butt connectors, no T-taps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
The car only has one constant 12v wire at the ignition. Ill just connect all the power wires like you said so ill only have to make 2 connections on the constant 12v wire. Two connections shouldn't be bad. There just isn't a ton of room.

Just wondering though, is there a reason I can't go one step further and tie the 2 fused power wires to the other red fused power wire with the alarm and 556u attached to it? That way I would just have to attach the one 12v wire at the ignition harness to give power to everything. Two wires isn't a problem but might as well cut it down to just one wire if I can.
 

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The car only has one ignition wire. Ill just connect all the power wires like you said so ill only have to make 2 connections on the constant 12v wire at the ignition. Two connections shouldn't be bad. There just isn't a ton of room.

Just wondering though, is there a reason I can't go one step further and tie the 2 fused power wires to the other red fused power wire with the alarm and 556u attached to it? That way I would just have to attach the one 12v wire at the ignition harness to give power to everything. Two wires isn't a problem but might as well cut it down to just one wire if I can.
If there is only one constant wire in the car you can tie all the Alarm/RS power wires together. Just be sure not to cut off any of the fuses on the RS harness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 · (Edited)
Cool thats what I'll do. Ill just tie all 3 fused wires together just after the fuses and then tie in the alarm and 556u power wires between the fuse and alarm brain on the red wire. That way I'll only have to connect the one wire to my constant 12v instead of 5. Much easier! Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Also, I think your car has a second ignition or acessory wire not listed it your diagram. You'll need to connect it for the remote start.
I didn't notice this post at first. I don't know why the diagram I posted only shows one accessory wire, but it does have 2. The blue/red wire posted in the first diagram is accessory 1 and accessory 2 is a blue/black wire. Only 1 ignition wire though.

So does this change how I'm hooking up the remote start? So far on the remote start harness I have all my fused power wires on the constant 12v wire. The solid pink wire is connected to my ignition 1 and the orange wire to my accessory 1. And then I didn't use the pink/white and pink/black wires like you said. Is how I have it correct or does something need to be connected to my accessory 2 wire also?
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I'll have to wait a few days before I can even test any of this after I get it wired anyway. I went to Ace to get a key made and they won't have any of my keys in stock until Friday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Yeah, and its cheap too. Last time I had it done it was like 60 or 80$ (don't remember exactly). Either way its alot cheaper than the dealer. I was thinking probably won't have them cut it either, I really don't like the idea of having a key in the car even if it is hidden.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
And I just noticed when referencing the manual to put the wire back in that the pink/white wire is supposed to go to ignition 2. Thats still correct wiring it to my accessory 2, right?
 

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And I just noticed when referencing the manual to put the wire back in that the pink/white wire is supposed to go to ignition 2. Thats still correct wiring it to my accessory 2, right?
It's fine. Some newers cars are picky and need to see the voltage drop out during crank, but it shouldn't matter in yours. If it gives you issues with staying running you can program it to be a true accessory output, your install guide should have the programming instructions.
 

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Yeah, and its cheap too. Last time I had it done it was like 60 or 80$ (don't remember exactly). Either way its alot cheaper than the dealer. I was thinking probably won't have them cut it either, I really don't like the idea of having a key in the car even if it is hidden.
I'd have them cut it so you can test it properly. You can always have them grind down a few teeth to prevent it turning the cylinder after you've tested it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
It's fine. Some newers cars are picky and need to see the voltage drop out during crank, but it shouldn't matter in yours. If it gives you issues with staying running you can program it to be a true accessory output, your install guide should have the programming instructions.
Cool. It is a older car so hopefully it won't be a problem.

I'd have them cut it so you can test it properly. You can always have them grind down a few teeth to prevent it turning the cylinder after you've tested it.
True, I didn't think of that. I do have a dremel, I can always do that myself later. And depending on how I need to have the key positioned in the box I might need to cut it down some anyway. My oem key is a little too long anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Ace still hasn't got my key in yet so I haven't tested the remote start but I should get one soon. I was thinking though while finishing up all my wiring, is there a way to bypass the clutch safety switch on the car with the r/s? The plug at the clutch is just unplugged for now so the car cranks without the clutch being pushed in. But I would prefer that it gets activated with the r/s so the clutch switch works normally still if thats possible. I think it needs to see 12v to work.

And I can't really figure out exactly how to place the ring from the 556u. On my car there is a plastic trim piece that goes around the factory transponder ring that holds everything to the ignition. There isn't any room to get it in front like they say is needed. So what am I supposed to do? The only way the 556u ring can sit in front of the factory ring is if I glued it to the outside of the piece that holds the factory ring to the ignition. You would see the whole 556u ring which I doubt is how its supposed to be installed. I attached a pic so you can see what I'm talking about exactly. Only the clear plastic part is in front of the factory ring and the manual was real specific about it being in front of the factory ring.
 

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