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Discussion Starter #1
I need some help finishing up my budget build plan. In order to stay on my razor thin budget, I have the following plan for the front components on my civic sedan.

Amp: Zapco ST-2B
Tweeter: Peerless NE25VTS-04
Woofer: Silver Flute W17RC38-04

The part I need help with is the passive crossovers. I don't want to run active because of the added cost, so I'm aiming for clean sound without the stage. And tear apart my selection if you want lol I'm learning and researching as I go. Thanks in advance!
 

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If you're running passively, I'd skip the Peerless and Silver Flute and just pick up a pair of components within budget. I don't have any specific models, but I'm sure you could find something easily enough.

Trying to find a passive crossover to fit those speakers will be more of a headache than it's worth (IMO).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I thought about the JBL GTO609C set which is decent. Or Orion CM65 mids with COTW1 tweeters (heard great things for price) but run into the crossover issue as well with that one. Would it be feasible to run active without a DSP? I have an AC LC2I for the stock head just for the fronts. Rears are just RF R165.3 coax running on factory power.
 

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A DSP unit isn’t required, but it is an easier way to go. A diy active crossover can be built on strip board using single-supply op amp circuits. Or, a raspberry pi can be used with an inexpensive multichannel usb dac. Alternatives like these to a DSP unit can be made to sound great, and are cheap in terms of cash, but not cheap in terms of knowhow needed to execute them.
 

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I would recommend getting a Dayton Audio DSP408... Can be had for roughly the same price as a passive crossover while allowing you to go active, and also allows for future expandability.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

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Pioneer head unit in network mode. Done. I wonder if some of the JVC units can do this?

Edit:
confirmed even there single DIN decks offer a 3-way crossover and Built in DSP.

Getting A floor model or last year end of stock closeout deck for about 60 bucks sounds like a great way to reach those goals.

5 channel amps in the same price range....Not Zapco good... But..



DB Drive.
Refurbished: lowest price


$119.90

FAST 'N FREE





MB Quart
MB Quart Nautic NA710.5 710W 5 Channel Marine Amplifier

$118.89




Hifonics TPS-A600.5
THOR compact 5 Channel, 600 Watts Powersport Digital Amplifier
$113.66





Sonic 139 Backorder

Precision Power TRAX5.2200D
Refurbished: lowest price


$99.90

FAST 'N FREE





AUDIOPIPE APMI-55105 5-CHANNEL CLASS AB CAR AUDIO AMP AMPLIFIER 1600 WATTS MAX


$129.99
FAST 'N FREE






If you can do without the subwoofer? One of the Dual Amps sound pretty darn good. $50 bucks shipped 4 channel sounds pretty good for a budget system until you are ready to go up the scale. Even the budget gem guy said it sounded great on his home Hifi Setup. Can't really go wrong.


That and just about any JVC unit that does 3 way "Network Mode" or 3 way mode as JVC calls it should work great.


Current Amazing tweeter deals that would help with budget HIFI?


My Favorite Inexpensive car tweeter of all time?
$7.90


If you got the room? Can't beat this for $8 bucks!
Notable:

good budget tweeter
Jack r

I used this with a Dayton RS 150 in a car audio application. Low fs and nice price. Is it the best sounding tweeter I've heard? Of course not it's so cheap but it does match well with the rs. Not a bright tweeter so if that's what you're looking for I'd keep looking. A affordable decent power handling that does what it's intended to do and easy on the ears.



Again, if you can make it fit? $10.00

Data sheet and response curves

sounds good but has some real problems when it starts reaching the upper frequency


I hope my suggestions help meet your budget requirements and give you some flexibility
 

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search your local junkyard for old Volvo(c70) that have Dynaudio speakers, look on ofer up for deals on used amps. I went the budget route with 80prs, silver flute and xt25 tweets and ran active for the first time.spent more money on sound deadener than speakers have swapped out amps and even made a few bucks re selling some of the offer up gems on ebay. Was a great learning experience and when i had the chance to grab a used dsp for a good budget price i didnt hesitate. Got a 6to8v8 with amas/spdif for a little more than the dayton. Speaking of dayton the 10” ho fit my budget build. So yea man you dont have to spend alot of money to go far in this hobby.
 

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Having done a budget build myself I'll throw my two cents worth in...….with this thought in mind.

I tried passive crossovers(custom and basic amazon purchased) and a full active system. There is no comparison between the two with the full active system being far superior. Not sure what your budget is but going full active with some average speakers will net you good results. Easy enough to upgrade your speakers later.

The headunit with 3 way outputs and dsp would be a nice integrated unit to start with. Run the tweeters and mids off the headunit till you can get a 4 or 5 channel amp. Or run the tweets and mids off the headunit and add a mono amp and sub to the system later.

You have many options and much to think about now. Lots of good suggestions from the previous post. Good luck.
 

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I need some help finishing up my budget build plan. In order to stay on my razor thin budget, I have the following plan for the front components on my civic sedan.

Amp: Zapco ST-2B
Tweeter: Peerless NE25VTS-04
Woofer: Silver Flute W17RC38-04

The part I need help with is the passive crossovers. I don't want to run active because of the added cost, so I'm aiming for clean sound without the stage. And tear apart my selection if you want lol I'm learning and researching as I go. Thanks in advance!
Nice, oldschool budget build! You don't see them too often nowadays - seems nobody answered your question, though...

You can do wonders with the right passive crossovers if your not afraid to experiment a little and can handle a solder iron reasonably. :)

With your 6.5 two-way setup you'd like to make the tweeter play as low frequency as possible to get the right stage and avoid the natural frequency gap that occurs with the fairly large 6.5 playing at an angle from your listening position. Typically you won't find a 6.5 that provides much output over 2-2.5k at 45 deg angle due to physical limitations - so that's where you want your tweeter to take over. Tweeters should be crossed over at least at resonance frequency (Fs) times 1.5-2 to avoid distorsion and safeguard power handling.

Your selected tweeter will work just fine, as it's speced at around 800 Hz Fs. I'd suggest a 4:th order (24 dB/octave) Linkwitz-Riley highpass for the tweeters at around 2-2,5 kHz, depending on what standard components (capacitors and coils) you can find. There are plenty of calculator tools available on the interweb if you give it a quick search - most of them have wiring schemes presented simple enough to follow. Prepare to insert an attenuation circuit (two additional resistors -one series/one parallell to the tweeter) - as you'd probably want to adjust tweeter level compared to the woofer after listening/measuring. There are calculators for those as well...

I'd however give the suggested Peerless DX20BF00-04 a thought if you can spare the room to fit it, as it - besides the price advantage - has a smoother radiation pattern which makes it less sensitive to on axis direction to your listening point. The one you've chosen is great in a straight line - but less so if angled...

If you're really on the tight budget - you could leave the woofer without crossover, many well known branded kits are delivered that way. If you decide to put a lowpass on - using a 2nd order (12 dB/octave) Linkwitz-Riley would do fine and save you a couple of bucks and some building time as you already have a natural roll-off around the frequency. If you go that way - one good thing could be to add impedance correction to the woofer to make the crossover work well, also flip polarity on either tweeters or woofers if you use this, as they otherwise would get out of phase at crossover frequency.

As a general tip, building with passives you want to be able to change and adjust - so fitting quick connectors like XT-60s on the cables is a smart move.

I hope that made some sense, at least tried to answer your question!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Due to my current experience in car audio and electronics, I feel I would butcher the hell out of trying to make my own crossover lol. The only other idea that popped in my head last night to keep price down, would be to replace the factor tweeters with soft dome cheapies using factory wiring (and a capacitor). Then get a decent set of mid-range 6.5's for the door, and drive those with the amp? Terrible idea?
 

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So what is your actual budget? There is a lot of options out there but it would help to know what your looking to spend. Everyone’s “budget” build are at different “budget levels”
 

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I've run a lot of 1" soft domes with a cap, lol radio shack used to sell them for $7 or something way back. Super cheap I'd chop the tweeter on a 6x9 if I could mount it. They are better mids than 6.5 apples to apples. I'd say go with a set of comps passive, but if you want to run active go for it. You can get amps cheap it doesn't take much to run tweets. You will still need something to process with. I run a 880prs but passive comps in front and rear coax actually. Not sure what to do in new car no time to look at it yet. When I first put that system in I bought used comps, swapped the rears 3 times, amps 4 or 5 times. I bought the 880 new is all. Still ended up with $40 15" pyles running IB and works awesome for what I wanted. The EQ in the 880 can take care of any issues with the comps which were high end models then. But also its a hidden system with stock door mounting so I would only get so much from it.
 

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You should think of buying a 4 channels amp instead, like soundstream PA4. 1000 (a little less money than the Zapco 2 channel), in case you want to go active in the future.
What is your HU anyway?
If you get the Orion you were talking about, you will still use 2 channels, components should come with a crossover, so you don't have to worry about anything.

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