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Discussion Starter #1
My cousin has a moving company and a few of the trucks are Hino's. A year or so I put a few Kenwood single din's into them and now he wants to get a sub going, as the factory location 4's do not quite cut it, the speakers are also located high above your head.

So the truck is a 2000ish Hino, the truck apparently hinges at the front and that's where I expect to have to run my power wire. So anyone in here ever done this? The truck's battery box is to the rear of the truck's cab so I am guessing the wire will need to be full length of 15-20'.
 

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we've got a hino at my work, I believe its in the same year range as what yours is, i will take some measurements tomorrow and get back to you, if the battery is at the back of the cab it shouldn't need near that much power wire, maybe post a pic so I can get a better idea and I will get back to you tomorrow after work
 

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No pics due to time constraints and beating down sun for first time all year it seems.

Very easy once the cab was hinged forward. Ran power wire down frame rail up into forward part of cab, everything was split loomed and zip-tied to be out of the way of the cab's momentum on the way back to normal position. I figure it was 20' of power wire to get to where he wanted the sub/amp located in the passenger rear of the cab.

My main tool was a pick and a JIS #3, second to JIS #2 and a 10mm.

I made a ground with a 10-32 machine screw + rivnut after I had used a 1/8" piloted bonding brush to clear way for the rivnut.

The truck was a 2002.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
In this case it is a Japanese made moving truck.

Get out your JIS tools for this one.
 

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I used to have a Hino turbo-diesel like this as one of my 5-ton Grip & Lighting equipment trucks. Hino is Toyota's Japanese commercial division. They had a few problems with the trucks, but all issues were covered & fixed under factory recalls, including a $6k+ turbocharger system replacement. Great driving & riding trucks otherwise!

The dual battery box/compartment is bolted to the side of the frame and located behind/under the driver's-side steel door steps (directly under the driver's seat but outside & separate from the cab).

And it had the same front-hinged, tilt-forward hood design. It sounds like you routed the power wire basically the same as I did. And yeah, about 20ft of power wire since I went to the passenger side back wall.

The last stereo in it was an Alpine CDE-HD149BT single-DIN so that all of the various drivers or passengers could connect via BT for music & Hands-Free cell calls. I also installed a separate 7" screen for backup camera duties.

The top of the dash is PERFECT for 3.5"-5.25" mids with tweeters in sealed dash pods. I used the old Pioneer Premier TS-520PRS 5.25" component set in a custom dash-top wedge-shaped enclosure that spanned the width of the dash. IIRC it was about 0.35cf per side (divided in the middle) and loosely filled with polyfill.

The wedge-shaped space between the top of the dash & the windshield slopes steeply & deeply downward, so the dash enclosure left a completely unobstucted view for the driver & passenger. I just had to leave cutouts or gaps in the windshield side of the enclosure for the window defrosting vents.

I used 3/8" MDF cut in 3 sections (L/C/R) and bonded them together with 1/8" hardboard/Masonite "ties" plus Duraglass. It was FUGLY as hell but you couldn't tell because I made a one-piece, curved, 1/8" Masonite top trim panel covered with dark gray carpet, LOL.

I installed an inexpensive 10" Polk Audio MM subwoofer in a sealed MDF enclosure under the passenger seat (tons of room) and a 5-channel amp with RF 3-Sixty.3 on a panel on the back wall behind the passenger seat.

The driver's seat has a nice air-ride/shock absorber system, so no room under there, and I wanted to keep as much of the cab's interior floor space open for the occupant's luggage & gear.

It was a great little system and made those long-haul production jobs way more enjoyable!
 
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