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You could try changing the ground location, I would hope that the installer did good job there.

You shouldn't have to "Cut" the ground wire from the FiX, it should be a screw in terminal. Is the FiX mounted near the amp?

The power wire shouldn't affect the speaker wires, when you think of it, the factory speaker wires are run next to power wires all throughout the car
 
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EDIT: Thanks, but I don't really have the money for that, at least not for a long time. and even if I did, not sure I can justify that price/time/etc to remove the static I have now lol. meh :/
I feel your pain! even with the Pioneer HU, the glare was unbearable. That's why I have that crazy little JL Marine HU, purpose buit to prevent glare, large display, IP 66 rating, and my favorite......A knob!

Got it for $150 as an open box/display!
 
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Discussion Starter #23
You could try changing the ground location, I would hope that the installer did good job there.

You shouldn't have to "Cut" the ground wire from the FiX, it should be a screw in terminal. Is the FiX mounted near the amp?

The power wire shouldn't affect the speaker wires, when you think of it, the factory speaker wires are run next to power wires all throughout the car
other quote: I feel your pain! even with the Pioneer HU, the glare was unbearable. That's why I have that crazy little JL Marine HU, purpose buit to prevent glare, large display, IP 66 rating, and my favorite......A knob!

Got it for $150 as an open box/display!


===

There are 4 wires, about the size of like.. I'd guess 14 gauge maybe? I think it's continuous power RED, alternating power ???, remote wire BLUE, and ground wire BLACK. These are tied into the other wiring somehow, that all goes either to the stock amp or the stock stereo. These are in a wiring harness plugged into the DSP. I can't really tell where the ground wire goes.. I think to the stock amp, but point is it's not like on a screw or w/e that I can remove and put somewhere else...

That's why I was going to cut it like a foot out from DSP and then add my own wire and ground it somewhere good. idk tho.. not sure if that'd help, but I'm about out of other ideas.

I'm so glad to heard that it's not likely to be the speaker wire/power wire problem. That'd be rly hard to fix lol.

Yeah, the glare can be rough sometimes. What I hate more is the little chrome/silver accents in the car. Like the one around the cup holders during about mid day or 2-3pm, the sun glares off of that SO BRIGHT right into my eyes. I'm about to just rip it off and see if I can find a replacement, or maybe paint it black lmfao..

Ah cool, knobs are great aren't they lols

EDIT: forgot to answer;; the FIX is under the passenger dash like where your feet go, but shoved up under there more. It's basically beside the stock amp, and then it runs RCA down right side panels/floor to my kenwood amp under the passenger seat.
 

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There are 4 wires, about the size of like.. I'd guess 14 gauge maybe? I think it's continuous power RED, alternating power ???, remote wire BLUE, and ground wire BLACK. These are tied into the other wiring somehow, that all goes either to the stock amp or the stock stereo. These are in a wiring harness plugged into the DSP. I can't really tell where the ground wire goes.. I think to the stock amp, but point is it's not like on a screw or w/e that I can remove and put somewhere else...

Wait a minute, the FiX is grounded to the factory amp? You need to move that! Find a solid part of the structure of the car and make sure to remove ALL of the paint. There is a screw on terminal on the FiX, I will post some pics in a minute or so.

That's why I was going to cut it like a foot out from DSP and then add my own wire and ground it somewhere good. idk tho.. not sure if that'd help, but I'm about out of other ideas.

I'm so glad to heard that it's not likely to be the speaker wire/power wire problem. That'd be rly hard to fix lol.



EDIT: forgot to answer;; the FIX is under the passenger dash like where your feet go, but shoved up under there more. It's basically beside the stock amp, and then it runs RCA down right side panels/floor to my kenwood amp under the passenger seat.
++++
 

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I know the picture are of the JL TwK, but the connectors are identical.

You can remove the connector, uncrew the set screw for the ground and add a new ground wire from there. You can jus dead end the old ground wire provided you use copiuos amounts of tape, it's also a good idea to cut the stripped end of the old ground before you tape it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
I know the picture are of the JL TwK, but the connectors are identical.

You can remove the connector, uncrew the set screw for the ground and add a new ground wire from there. You can jus dead end the old ground wire provided you use copiuos amounts of tape, it's also a good idea to cut the stripped end of the old ground before you tape it up.
Ok, so here are some picture I just took: https://imgur.com/a/2QL4D ... i think the last picture will be especially helpful. I labeled the wires to help.

So you're saying I can either cut this black wire and remove the splice (or disconnect it from the DSP wiring harness via screw) and then add speaker wire (I only have a little bit of 16 gauge wire left, is 16 gauge good enough?) and find a good ground point and connect it there..?

and dead end/tape the other wire?

If that's what you're saying, I'll see if I can do that soon or I may have to wait 1-2 hours for my stepdad to wake up (he's working an odd shift right now) and he can make sure I pick a good ground point for the DSP ground wire.

Thanks!!!!
 

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Yes, you are correct in your understanding. When you think of it, with that set-up, you have three devices grounded through the same wire. And, just so you know, the outter rings of the RCA cables are grounded through the same place at the FiX, your Kenwood is also the same way, RCA's grounded to the (-) of the primary ground of the amp. You might be experiencing a difference in potential from the amp side of the RCA's to the FiX side of the RCA's. this imbalance can cause the RCA grounds to allow flow in one direction and any eddy currents will be imparted into the signal (Center pin) wire of the RCA, you could just be hearing the hiss of the factory amp being imparted into your system.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Yes, you are correct in your understanding. When you think of it, with that set-up, you have three devices grounded through the same wire. And, just so you know, the outter rings of the RCA cables are grounded through the same place at the FiX, your Kenwood is also the same way, RCA's grounded to the (-) of the primary ground of the amp. You might be experiencing a difference in potential from the amp side of the RCA's to the FiX side of the RCA's. this imbalance can cause the RCA grounds to allow flow in one direction and any eddy currents will be imparted into the signal (Center pin) wire of the RCA, you could just be hearing the hiss of the factory amp being imparted into your system.
THanks man, so my stepdad gave me a 12 gauge wire and I screwed it into the wiring harness (barely fit, but fits good) and I grounded it to a stock ground screw, reads 0.1 as well for a ground. I only listened to it for about a minute, but I do think that helped it a little bit, so we're making progress. I'm out of time today though; have to drive back to my place 2 hours away and won't be able to do much tinkering until I can make it back here another time.. but anyway, thanks for your help. I really do appreciate it!! I'll drive around over the next week or two and see if it's at a low enough volume that I can stop worrying about it lol. Also to figure out my EQ preferences as well.

Anyway, g2g get on the road, ttyl :)
 

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okay I'm no expert here so just take it for what it's worth. but I was under the impression that while it is summing equalizing and other witchcraft that it does, it's also supposedly taking the noise out of the line at least according to Crutchfield. So if that is the case then you just knocked out half your search anything before the unit should be taken care of. So that only leaves really two options Option 1 is anything coming out of the unit going into amp speakers any of that ****, or it's the unit itself. now if you're still under full replacement warranty I would send it back and just get a ****ing new one and if you're still under the fix warranty send it to JL and have them refurbish it cuz I would almost guarantee you've probably got a bad solder or two on the board and they just happen to be in line with a bunch of other things. like I said my two cents take it or leave it but that's what I do
 

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Hi all hoping I can get some direction from you guys in relation to my stereo instal into a 2008 Mini Cooper S with oem sat nav / stereo CCC.
I decided to add a Fix 86 and feed the 4 audio speaker outputs into this to clean up the signal put out by the head unit.
The voltage for the RCA outputs on the fix 86 is set to 1v and this is fed via 4 phono leads to the 4 channel amplifier the gain on the amplifier is set to 4V for both front and rear outputs.
The problem I am getting is it only takes a small amount of rotation literally a couple of clicks on the oem head unit to reach ridiculous level.
I can lower the
What am I missing and be gentle lol
 

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Hi all hoping I can get some direction from you guys in relation to my stereo instal into a 2008 Mini Cooper S with oem sat nav / stereo CCC.
I decided to add a Fix 86 and feed the 4 audio speaker outputs into this to clean up the signal put out by the head unit.
The voltage for the RCA outputs on the fix 86 is set to 1v and this is fed via 4 phono leads to the 4 channel amplifier the gain on the amplifier is set to 4V for both front and rear outputs.
The problem I am getting is it only takes a small amount of rotation literally a couple of clicks on the oem head unit to reach ridiculous level.
I can lower the
What am I missing and be gentle lol
Been a while since I had the fix but check the following ... You want to be able to turn the volume up 3/4 or full volume and have a comfortable listening level.


  • lower the gains on your amplifier if possible.
  • If there’s a high to low level input toggle on your amp try to use that to lower gains
  • OR ... If your amp gains are all the way down, Go into the fix software and lower the volume permanently inside the software and don't touch it anymore.
  • OR (This is technically the ideal according to JL) leave the factory stereo volume at the same number you calibrated at and only use the JL audio volume knob.

- Can your fix calibrate with less factory inputs? Consider your factory speaker leads and the results during calibration. My OEM front midwoofer speaker leads actually had the whole frequency range, there was enough for the fix to calibrate without adding the tweeters. When I added the OEM Tweeter signal it was overkill and sounded weird until I removed the tweets from slots 1/2 & 3/4. I also removed the subwoofer leads from the fix. If it sounds strange still this could be the issue like in my old vehicle
[Front Tweets and Mids factory stereo volume @ 29/40]



[Mids only volume 30/40 - mids have the full range so extra inputs (tweeters and subwoofer signals) were not necessary and we're"overloading" it if you will ... This sounded much better less hiss and distortion]



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Been a while since I had the fix but check the following ... You want to be able to turn the volume up 3/4 or full volume and have a comfortable listening level.


  • lower the gains on your amplifier if possible.
  • If there’s a high to low level input toggle on your amp try to use that to lower gains
  • OR ... If your amp gains are all the way down, Go into the fix software and lower the volume permanently inside the software and don't touch it anymore.
  • OR (This is technically the ideal according to JL) leave the factory stereo volume at the same number you calibrated at and only use the JL audio volume knob.
- Can your fix calibrate with less factory inputs? Consider your factory speaker leads and the results during calibration. My OEM front midwoofer speaker leads actually had the whole frequency range, there was enough for the fix to calibrate without adding the tweeters. When I added the OEM Tweeter signal it was overkill and sounded weird until I removed the tweets from slots 1/2 & 3/4. I also removed the subwoofer leads from the fix. If it sounds strange still this could be the issue like in my old vehicle
[Front Tweets and Mids factory stereo volume @ 29/40]



[Mids only volume 30/40 - mids have the full range so extra inputs (tweeters and subwoofer signals) were not necessary and we're"overloading" it if you will ... This sounded much better less hiss and distortion]



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Many thanks for your help i was under the impression that the Fix86 does not hold the master volume setting set in the software once you leave the software?
 

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Many thanks for your help i was under the impression that the Fix86 does not hold the master volume setting set in the software once you leave the software?
oh ... Hmmm. I'm pretty confident that it would hold it at like any % for example ... Unless you also have the DRC remote plugged in, I think that will override whatever percentage you set the master volume in the software. Could be wrong but should be easy enough to test by listening before and after

If that's the case and a set master volume is a good solution in your context, you could unplug the DRC entirely.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Hi I dont have the master external remote, i thought i could set the master volume in the software and save it as part of the profile when saving it to the Fix but it doesnt save it
Thanks for the reply
 

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Hi I dont have the master external remote, i thought i could set the master volume in the software and save it as part of the profile when saving it to the Fix but it doesnt save it
Thanks for the reply
Looks like you're right. Memory failed me. DRC should manually hold the master volume position then as JL tech support states

 
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