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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm considering a horn install in an Acura RL ('08). The system I have planned includes:

20-100hz: AE ib15's

100-320hz: JBL 2006h's (rear-mounted on the rear deck, wide as can be,
with a L-R signal mixed in to enhance apparent width).

320-1200hz: Audax PR170MO (or PHL 1120's), kickpanel location.

1200hz up: ?

Amps: JL HD's

Processing: Arc PS8, and a minidsp for ambient rear-fill.


My question is whether horns are likely to do well in this car with the center console as large as it is. I'm sure minibodies are out, as hard as they crossfire... what do you guys think?

My alternative to horns :)blush:) would be to cross the mids higher and mate them with Aurum Cantus AST2650's down in the kicks. 2-seater.

 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Niiiice...keep me spinnin my wheels some more.

Talk to me please...what do you like about them in a car? I'm so tempted to give them a go. Are we just talking about upper-end air that the hlcd's just won't give?

Which AMT's have you heard or which ones would you consider? those ast2560's look SO good.
 

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The horns will work and I think either will fit easily enough.

The trick is getting the horn far left and right all the way until you are stopped by metal. This will require thinking through the mid install in the kicks.

I personally would rather have a 6.5" done right up front than an 8" behind me.

Eric
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the input, Eric!

Question..how much is to be gained by pushing the horn driver beyond the metal? There will be some cutting to do anyway for the mid.

Also, I would intent to marry the horn to the underside of the dash so that there's a flush extention of the horn mouth, but how much is to be gained by flushing up the side of the horn throat with the side panels? Worth the effort?

Last thing Eric, where do you stand on treating the throat of the horn with foam, sanding the horn, mass loading it, etc.? Would love to hear your take on best practices.
 

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Thanks for the input, Eric!

Question..how much is to be gained by pushing the horn driver beyond the metal? There will be some cutting to do anyway for the mid.

Also, I would intent to marry the horn to the underside of the dash so that there's a flush extention of the horn mouth, but how much is to be gained by flushing up the side of the horn throat with the side panels? Worth the effort?

Last thing Eric, where do you stand on treating the throat of the horn with foam, sanding the horn, mass loading it, etc.? Would love to hear your take on best practices.
You want them wide, there can be a point of too wide but that would usually only happen in a wide vehicle such as a full size pick up. The gains of cutting into the metal are small but if you are trying to do your best the details all add up and become more noticeable.

if you push the horns far left and right you will be flushing up the far sides of the horn mouth. It certainly wont hurt. Radius additions to the edge of the mouth to reduce edge diffraction are good as long as they don't impede or go into the flare of the horn.

Reticulated foam in the two axis flare section is beneficial and recommended. Mass loading and damping materials cant hurt and are recommended for the full size, the MH is pretty dead as shipped.

Eric
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Question: I'm having some trouble sourcing the PHL 1120's, but can get the 1660's. Am I better off with the 1660 anyways, or should I keep digging for the 1120's?

From what I gather, the 1660 is stronger in the lower midrange, and the 1120 is stronger and more open in the upper. But, since I'll be crossing at around 1k-1.5k to horns, it seems like the 1660, which also has a bit more efficiency, would be the logical choice. Yes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Nice! you're one of the members I hoped would chime in. Fan of serious dynamics unless I have you confused for another.

I'm going to give the 1660's a shot.

As for amps, I was thinking of going one of several directions:

Option 1: All JL HD's (750/1 on subs, 600/4 bridged to midbass, and another
600/4 to mids and horns) 3 amps total. Certainly adequate!

Option 2: All JL HD's (1200/1 to subs, 900/5 bridged to mids with sub channel to midbass, 900/5 to horns and rears with sub channel to midbass). 3 amps total. More power all around!

Option 3: Mix, with JL HD's on subs and midbass, and some old school Soundstream Reference "Class A's" on mids and highs. Maybe a nicer sound with such high efficiency mids/horns? I dunno.. What do you think?

Btw...how are those Audax pr170mo's working out for you?
 

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i'd stick to the hd's

The beauty about them is they're small and pack a punch when bridged

I had 3 under the seats in my 02 acura TL

One bridged to midbass
One bridged to midrange
& the other bridged to horns

1800 watts on tap and the amps were completely hidden.

I ended up swapping one out for a zed dreadnought to power the midbass. Went from 300 x 2 bridged to 800 x 2 bridged.

How does a mix of 1 and 2 sound?

1 1200/1 for the subs and 2 600/4's for the front stage?

The audax are holding up very well..butter smooth midrange that'll get as loud as i could ever want 'em to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
i'd stick to the hd's

The beauty about them is they're small and pack a punch when bridged

I had 3 under the seats in my 02 acura TL

One bridged to midbass
One bridged to midrange
& the other bridged to horns

1800 watts on tap and the amps were completely hidden.

I ended up swapping one out for a zed dreadnought to power the midbass. Went from 300 x 2 bridged to 800 x 2 bridged.

How does a mix of 1 and 2 sound?

1 1200/1 for the subs and 2 600/4's for the front stage?

The audax are holding up very well..butter smooth midrange that'll get as loud as i could ever want 'em to.
Hmmm... just wondering, especially given your switch to the dreadnought for your midbasses, and that your audax's will get as loud as you could ever want with the power you're giving them, if the 900/5's don't make more sense than the 600/4's? - with that arrangement I'd have 500 watts on each midbass instead of 300, 200 watts per mid rather than 300, and 100 per horn has GOT to be "too" much to begin with.

In short, and maybe you've already weighed in here basically, but isn't the tradeoff worth it to take some power from the mids/highs and giving it to the midbasses?
 
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