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Discussion Starter #1
I have been trying to tune to a house curve for weeks and just can’t get it to sound the way I want. Am I the only person with this issue? Any tips on how to simply eq without a house curve?
 

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the house curve is a starting point, "good" sound is very subjecive so you should expect to end up tweaking things (away from the curve) to satisfy your personal tastes. Also, there are many house curves, can you be more specific regarding which one you are using? It would also help to know what music you listen to and how you like to hear it (dominate vocals, extra low end, stop-your-heart kick drum, etc)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
White ledge half curve is what I’m currently using. It seems to bright to me at the moment. At low volumes it’s ok but when I turn it up loud the highs are overwhelming.
 

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The why don‘t you adapt that house curve to your liking? The exported house curve is just a text file after all.
 

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if it is too bright you will either need to lower the output of the tweeters completely or just EQ down the offending peaks, it's all guesswork for us because we can't see the plot and say "there is the problem"

funny story ... I tried to Google "white ledge half curve" ... the results were definitely not what I expected lol. However, Googling whitledge half curve gave me a much better idea of what you are using
 

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White ledge half curve is what I’m currently using. It seems to bright to me at the moment. At low volumes it’s ok but when I turn it up loud the highs are overwhelming.
Try the Audiofrog curve. The JBL Andy curve is very similar, Andy left JBL and started Audiofrog.

Sent from my SM-G935U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Good morning,

Thank you for all the replies. I am attaching two frequency responses of my front two channels with and without the subwoofer. At this point I am giving up on house curves as the result just sounds artificial to my ears - it's probably user error but that's another story. At this point I would just like to EQ out some offending frequencies and move forward.

Based off the graphs, I was thinking to bring down the right side at 977, 699, and 145. then bring both sides down at 2k. I feel like the range from 200 to 1K is causing most of my issues but I'm not really sure what to do with it. I seem to either make the sound muddy or really bright adjusting here.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 

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How do I interpret these numbers? I know what the tops ones mean but the 1 through 30 something ?
Sorry DSP newb.
You really don't need to interpret the file - just load it into REW as the house curve under Preferences in REW (Preferences->House Curve). But just FYI, the first column is the frequency and the second value is the dB level.
 

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Can you post new graphs that have some smoothing?

One thing you may want to consider is the equal loudness contours. You say that it sounds fine at lower volumes, but harsh as you increase the volume, this could be at least partially due to the equal loudness contours. We aren't very good at hearing low, or high frequencies at lower volume levels, this is why "loudness" features exist on so many head units.
 

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Those graphs are wicked hard to read, but I am fairly confident that one of your issues is the massive dip from 1.2k to 1.4k ... that is going to really make the peak above 1.4 glaring
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Here are the graphs with 1/6 smoothing applied. I agree with the 1.2 to 1.4K answer above just not really sure what to do about it. Should I flatten the rise from 400K to 1.2K?
 

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well, there are definitely some very funky things going on ... typically you are looking for a fairly flat response from 300 to 3000. No idea what is happening with the RF from 200 to 400, but between that and the 1.3k dip ... just wow. Besides all of that, the 5dB spike from 10k to 18k will really suck the joy from the 5k to 10k output.
Few questions ...
1) are you running passive components?
2) are you using a DSP?
3) aside from the above, what options are available for TA/EQ?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
well, there are definitely some very funky things going on ... typically you are looking for a fairly flat response from 300 to 3000. No idea what is happening with the RF from 200 to 400, but between that and the 1.3k dip ... just wow. Besides all of that, the 5dB spike from 10k to 18k will really suck the joy from the 5k to 10k output.
Few questions ...
1) are you running passive components?
2) are you using a DSP?
3) aside from the above, what options are available for TA/EQ?
Yes, I am running passive crossovers and I’m using a Dayton DSP. It has 10 bands of PEQ.
 

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Looks like a typical Graph... I'm guessing you have Mid-Base in your lower front doors, passive tweets, and a huge center console.

I had similar issues in my truck, as my Response Graph looked just like yours way back when I first got started. I had to go 3-way+sub active to get my stereo to sound really good.

Try these adjustment.... this is so you will be able to at least listen to your stereo without blowing an eardrum, and in the mean-time figure out how to tune your system.

All the sugested Frequency's are estimaed based off your posted graph. You will need to click on the graph for a more precise freq.


Right side> EQ 140hz (-10db), 290hz +4db, 695hz (-8db), 990hz (-8db), 3.8khz (-2.5db), 11khz (+4db)

Left Side> EQ 140hz (+4db), 290hz (-7db), 720hz (+4db), 1.3khz (+3db), 3.9khz (+3db), 6.4khz (+3db)

The above are just estimates... you can plus more db or minus more db on any of the freqs... although, I personally will never boost more than +3db..

The goal of tuning is to get your left side to match your right side in Frequency Response. The more closely the 2 sides match excatly, the better your system will sound.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Looks like a typical Graph... I'm guessing you have Mid-Base in your lower front doors, passive tweets, and a huge center console.

I had similar issues in my truck, as my Response Graph looked just like yours way back when I first got started. I had to go 3-way+sub active to get my stereo to sound really good.

Try these adjustment.... this is so you will be able to at least listen to your stereo without blowing an eardrum, and in the mean-time figure out how to tune your system.

All the sugested Frequency's are estimaed based off your posted graph. You will need to click on the graph for a more precise freq.


Right side> EQ 140hz (-10db), 290hz +4db, 695hz (-8db), 990hz (-8db), 3.8khz (-2.5db), 11khz (+4db)

Left Side> EQ 140hz (+4db), 290hz (-7db), 720hz (+4db), 1.3khz (+3db), 3.9khz (+3db), 6.4khz (+3db)

The above are just estimates... you can plus more db or minus more db on any of the freqs... although, I personally will never boost more than +3db..

The goal of tuning is to get your left side to match your right side in Frequency Response. The more closely the 2 sides match excatly, the better your system will sound.

I put the settings in above and sure enough it was the best sound I have had yet. I have been tuning for weeks and you did better just looking at my frequency response - bang head on table. I then tried to smooth the response even more and sure enough sounds like crap and really bright. After the initial settings this was the ending response curve:
275518


I decided take bring some of the peaks down and ended up with the following:

275519


This FR sounds as if I sucked the life out of it. Maybe I need to bring it up 600 to 3k and then let it drop off?

I appreciate all the help and sorry for all the questions.
 

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Looks like the 1k all the up to 20k is okay..... I found that there is a difference between "too Bright" and "too Harsh". To me 'bright' would be if the tweets are way louder than the Mids.. Harsh will sound like the system is all playing through an old style telephone handset speaker, and its mostly the voices in the song that is so upfront and loud....

From your graph, it does not look like your tweets are playing to loud... so we will go with harshness. Most of the time Harshness is in the 250hz to 800hz range. I also found that harshness can happen when one side of the stereo does not match the other side.

Looks like you could 550hz about -3db on both sides. Then try to boost a little in the 310hz range. But, spend time to ensure each side is playing the same frequencies level. Like between 200hz and 400 hz.. make sure they match as best your can.

Have you seen the AudioFrog Tuning guide? Its perfect for passive systems.....
 

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Too lazy to post up my own curve (on a different computer) but I found I have to have a rising response from 800 down to 100Hz.IOW, 20-100 is flat, then linearily dropping until 800, falt to 1000, then the standard 1-3 k dip of 1-3 dB, before flattening again and then another rolling off around 8k. Most curves have boosted bass but tend to be more or less flat from 200-1000. I wouldn't be afraid to simply raise the volume on your bass and in particular bring up that dip at 300. I realize this is a very vague response, the point being mostly to say that almost all of the house curves sounded "bright" or way to much highs for me, and it only sounded good once I had the whole region below 1k with a little more oomph.Others have already said it, don't be a slave to the curve once you have the base tune in
 
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