DIYMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
11,353 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am working on sound deadening the rear of my car and i am close to 100% rattle free. I have done the rear hatch door and the floor and the license plate. So it has made a huge difference. But the last piece of the puzzle is. the exterior rear brake light /spoiler that is on top of the door. I can't say that i hear it from inside, but knowing it rattles is enough to make me want to fix it.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
780 Posts
3M weatherstrip glue works great. I’ve been using it in car repairs for 40 plus years
The best way to use this stuff is to put a very small amount on both ends and let it dry for a minute or two, let it get a little sticky. Then reinstall the break light
And it’s ok to use on paint and so on, it will not be harm it.
Copy and past on Amazon or go to any parts store.
3M Black Super Weatherstrip and Gasket Adhesive, 08008, 5 fl oz



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

· Registered
Joined
·
11,353 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Remove the light apply a very thin like 1/6 or 1/32 neoprene. Then put it back.
You can try stuff it around it but most likely the harness and connector will still bang the bottom of the little spoiler you got there.
thats a good idea. Its hard for me to tell what part is vibrating though. When i said rear brake light, it might be the whole spoiler. If i put my hands on the top of the spoiler it goes away. Maybe pulling the brake light will open up a cavity i can stuff with mineral wool too. As well as apply some deadener.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,392 Posts
thats a good idea. Its hard for me to tell what part is vibrating though. When i said rear brake light, it might be the whole spoiler. If i put my hands on the top of the spoiler it goes away. Maybe pulling the brake light will open up a cavity i can stuff with mineral wool too. As well as apply some deadener.
If you feel like you can remove some plastic without breaking ANY clips. Some are impossible to find if you have a car that's within like 2 or 3 years of the made on date.
The spoiler most likely has has a bolt on either side under the ....wait does the spoiler open with the hatch? Or does it sit still while stuff moves around it?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
11,353 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If you feel like you can remove some plastic without breaking ANY clips. Some are impossible to find if you have a car that's within like 2 or 3 years of the made on date.
The spoiler most likely has has a bolt on either side under the ....wait does the spoiler open with the hatch? Or does it sit still while stuff moves around it?
it opens with the hatch. It seems there are 2 10mm bolts under there and then it would just pop off. Like you said being careful not to snap any clips. Subaru clips in general have been very durable. So i think i just take it off and then line the inside, and then neoprene tape to better isolate it. I watched this video and it seemed easy. The bolts are different but generally the same technique.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,392 Posts
it opens with the hatch. It seems there are 2 10mm bolts under there and then it would just pop off. Like you said being careful not to snap any clips. Subaru clips in general have been very durable. So i think i just take it off and then line the inside, and then neoprene tape to better isolate it. I watched this video and it seemed easy. The bolts are different but generally the same technique.
Ya ok then. It's pretty simple what it looks to be more or less. The clips though are not your average interior panel deal.
They are a little more tight and I usually have to use a metal tool. If you are careful with the point of leverage you can miss the paint all together but it can be kinda a weird angle.
But it's pretty easy.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
780 Posts
thats a good idea. Its hard for me to tell what part is vibrating though. When i said rear brake light, it might be the whole spoiler. If i put my hands on the top of the spoiler it goes away. Maybe pulling the brake light will open up a cavity i can stuff with mineral wool too. As well as apply some deadener.
If your able to open the light and get anything inside there, make sure it’s rubber , like some old floor work shop mats. And pack in there there. Don’t leave anything lose


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

· Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
Different style from the 13 but... Installed the OEM on mine. The bolts are part of the spoiler and may as well be plastic. Even if I were to do a strip of butyl where the spoiler and trunk meet I don't think I could secure it tight enough without breaking the bolts.

Yours is a different style but I'm curious to see what you end up with.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
333 Posts
Different style from the 13 but... Installed the OEM on mine. The bolts are part of the spoiler and may as well be plastic. Even if I were to do a strip of butyl where the spoiler and trunk meet I don't think I could secure it tight enough without breaking the bolts.

Yours is a different style but I'm curious to see what you end up with.
Can the bolts be replaced with proper metal ones? I’d assume there might be additional components that might make this problematic, at least based upon my experience with my Impreza I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s not as simple as sticking a bolt in there (possibly having to glue/somehow affixing the head of the bolt to the spoiler). But if that’s possible you could use small carriage bolts (rounded heads with a square nut below, look them up if you’re not familiar. They’re pretty much a normal bolt with a rounded head affixed on top to the non-threaded end), carefully cut out around the holes in the spoiler (to match the square, so you can tighten without them spinning) stick it in and be careful not to over tighten (would probably want to use rubber washers and/or something to isolate the bolt from the spoiler just to be on the safe side). Obviously this would be last resort as messing this up (making round holes square) would be an issue. There’s got to be some sort of glue that’s hold them in place enough to tighten them.

idk if this is even possible but if it’s bother you this much there’s probably not much you can do without taking it off anyway so this might be worth looking into if you can’t tighten OEM fasteners enough to be happy with.

I’d think the best thing to do would be take it off, try to find some styrofoam to fill the cavity with (similar to a cars bumper) or put a layer or two of sound deadening in. But if you can find styrofoam or anything similar that you could fit in tightly I’d think that would be ideal. Could also put some soft rubber washers between the spoiler and hatch (something along the lines of what Subaru uses with the interior panel clips,thin enough not to hold it out even a millimeter but keeps everything from touching directly).
 

· Registered
2006 Toyota Camry LE 2.4L - Seeing how good I can make cheap components sound.
Joined
·
599 Posts
It's hard to tell from the pics what's going on, but I would remove the offending piece and put a layer of speaker sealing tape as a buffer.

I use speaker sealing tape on rattles all the time
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,960 Posts
Forgive me, as this is not advice... But it just reminded me of a guy here in Sacramento, with only a single 12" sub on 5 Kwt, (says its the loudest single 12" in Sac, and I would not doubt him, WAY louder than my 18", but not as musical) So he was giving a demo, and somebody asked, "What's that bouncing around in your tail light" ? Turns out, the stereo had knocked the light bulb out of the socket :) lol
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top