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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Gately quoted me like $900 for some a-pillars...

Right now I just have these tweeters kinda hacked into my a-pillars. These were junk yard spares so I don't care how they look.

I really like this placement... but... a few things:

1. They aren't perfectly aligned

2. I just blew the passenger side...again. These are rated 25w but used to be rated 50w. I've got some upgraded 80w that I want to put in.

I want to put them in properly. Pointed at each other (off-axis) and with decent aesthetics

I've done a little fiberglass work at a shop I worked at a few years ago. Taped up the surrounding area and then dabbed the white stuff onto it. It was pretty easy tbh but it was for a sub not tweeters.

So the good thing is that I can take the a-pillars out and it will be so much easier to fiberglass some tweeter pods.

Anyways, how do I align the tweeters properly? And how do I make the rings attach?

From what I've seen, you make a mounting ring, then use 4 braces or "feet" to attach to the a-pillar then wrap some fabric over it, then glass it up and then sand?

Here is where they are now. Love this position but need to align them a little better
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It's not difficult at all but it takes a lot of time and patience. That's usually what makes it difficult to people. Don't be surprised to spend 30 hours on your first set. Use quality supplies. There's is nothing wrong with spending $125 on your first set of materials. Rage gold will set.you back $70 by itself.

I just busted out a set in 4 hours with two nights dry time. Don't get me wrong there not great but more than fine for a work truck.

My son uses those tweeters. They are absolutely fantastic for the few dollars they cost.

You definitely don't need "80w" tweeters to be loud. You might just be asking to much of the with incorrectly set filtering.
 

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tape up dash, mount rings with modeling clay, adjust until perfect, hot glue into place, remove from car, remove modeling clay, reinforce ring mounting if needed, cut tweeter depth allowance hole behind ring if needed, stretch 4way stretch cloth over to desired shape, wrapping to back and clipping into place until correct, then staple and/or glue edges in place, paint with resin, let harden, fiberglass over if desired, as for finishing, idk, the ones i helped with were vinyl wrapped, i dont fuq with paint and crap in cars.
 

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Usually it sounds easier than done or looks much easier than when you start lol, but it's learning curve. It's something to have fun with and enjoy doing.
After all it's a hobby, enjoy it and learn it, or have a shop do it and it will cost you $700 and up :(

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It's not difficult at all but it takes a lot of time and patience. That's usually what makes it difficult to people. Don't be surprised to spend 30 hours on your first set. Use quality supplies. There's is nothing wrong with spending $125 on your first set of materials. Rage gold will set.you back $70 by itself.

I just busted out a set in 4 hours with two nights dry time. Don't get me wrong there not great but more than fine for a work truck.

My son uses those tweeters. They are absolutely fantastic for the few dollars they cost.

You definitely don't need "80w" tweeters to be loud. You might just be asking to much of the with incorrectly set filtering.
Got any pics? I don't need them 100% perfect...but decent would be nice.

I think I read these or the round wave guide version was the best bang for the buck SQ wise on some website comparison for tweeters... and I agree with that. Sound great and get decently loud.

I just dialed them in at the amp and with the same gain as the mids, I still had to put them at -10db on the head unit to level match (both were tuned at 55-58 on music while watching the clip lights on the 800/4)

I have them crossed at 4k with the max octave, 24 or 32db or whatever the 80prs does.

I don't know what happens but they will stop working momentarily. I even ran a new 12awg copper line directly to each one and they still stop working sometimes. I'm assuming that 144w rms with likely some clipping is what is doing it.
 

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I tried to do the grill cloth and mat combination. ended up getting 2 part expanding foam and shaped it how I wanted. It was a breeze after that. I think eplastics sold it if I remembr right? Was 3 years ago now.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I tried to do the grill cloth and mat combination. ended up getting 2 part expanding foam and shaped it how I wanted. It was a breeze after that. I think eplastics sold it if I remembr right? Was 3 years ago now.
Got any pics?

Could I just wrap in some cloth or fabric instead of fiberglass or something?

I wouldn't mind paying someone to do it but $900 is about 3x what I would consider remotely reasonable for this.
 

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Got any pics?

Could I just wrap in some cloth or fabric instead of fiberglass or something?

I wouldn't mind paying someone to do it but $900 is about 3x what I would consider remotely reasonable for this.
If you are using cloth, it's only for the shape. You need the resin and chop mat to get the strength you need.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If you are using cloth, it's only for the shape. You need the resin and chop mat to get the strength you need.
What if I secured the tweeter before wrapping it? And just use cloth to make it look nicer? There is a solid bolt at the top of the a-pillars for strength so I think I'm good.
 

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What if I secured the tweeter before wrapping it? And just use cloth to make it look nicer? There is a solid bolt at the top of the a-pillars for strength so I think I'm good.
Strength of the actual pod. Not of the pillar itself. And do you mean securing the tweeter before you start so it’s permanent? The cloth is used for shaping, that’s all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Strength of the actual pod. Not of the pillar itself. And do you mean securing the tweeter before you start so it’s permanent? The cloth is used for shaping, that’s all.
I think so. I basically just want to mount it and then make it look pretty.
 

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Got any pics?

Could I just wrap in some cloth or fabric instead of fiberglass or something?

I wouldn't mind paying someone to do it but $900 is about 3x what I would consider remotely reasonable for this.
Until you get into it.
By the time your 100% finished (if done correctly), you'll figure out why they charge what they do for pillars.
 

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Got any pics? I don't need them 100% perfect...but decent would be nice.
4 hours is misleading. That's actually working on it on my garage. I would have doubled that if I would have got them perfectly smoothed and shaped. I already had everything here. I don't think $900 is to much. I would be afraid of anyone that would do it for $300.

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took me 2 (not full) days. $900 is reasonable depending on the persons skill and materials used. id say a bit high, but not out of realm
 

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If you're thinking about doing the pillars yourself because it would be cheaper, you're thinking about it the wrong way. Diy is not necessarily a more affordable route, and it can get rather expensive and time-consuming. If you don't have the equipment or material to do the job, those would need to be purchased. Research needs to be done, and a plan of execution is set to complete the task. Your total investment in the project will bring you close to the shop asking price once money spent on material, tools, and time consumed is factored. If you don't mind doing it for the learning experience and the joy of creating something your own and time permits, go for it. If not, let the shop do the work and take comfort in knowing the job will be done right the first time.
 
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