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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone. A few years ago I decided to upgrade the sound in my 2008 wrangler. The results were okay, but I want to go all out now that I also have a Ridgeline and the Jeep is my toy. Originally, this is what I installed:
Kenwood ddx-9703 head unit
infinity reference 6030s components for the fronts
Pioneer sw2002sb under the passenger seat for a subwoofer
kac-3004 and kac-3001 for the amps, mounted under the front dash.

the system served me well but I wanted to upgrade. Somewhere along the line I bought another kac-3001 on ebay. Then I bought another kac-3004. The another kac-3004. Don't ask me why. I had three kids since I started so I was probably sleep deprived.

In any case, I'm ready to do this now. I have a minidsp 8x12. I have some midbass woofers I want to put under the front seats, and some subs for the rear. My big question is, am I crazy for wanting to use all 5 of those amps in my build? Id like to use them if I can. Someone talk me into or out of it. They'll all fit in the rear storage cubby of the jeep. Thanks!
 

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If you have the power to run them, and the space to mount them, there really isn't a limit to how many amps you can run. I originally wanted to have multiple smaller amps in my build because I think it looks cool if mounted right. Since you already have them, use them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If you have the power to run them, and the space to mount them, there really isn't a limit to how many amps you can run. I originally wanted to have multiple smaller amps in my build because I think it looks cool if mounted right. Since you already have them, use them.
Thanks. I actually do think they'd look cool if they were mounted side by side in the back. My only issue is where to put the DSP, but I think I can fit it up front under the steering column or behind the glove box.
 

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2006 Hyundai Sonata V6
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I'd say you would only have too many amps when the number of functional amp channels exceeds the number of speaker drivers currently installed (or planned to be installed). When my front stage was 2-way + sub, I had two 4-channel amps and a mono amp - 9 amp channels for 5 drivers. This was technically too many amps at the time, but I did this because I planned to eventually connect the rear coaxials, and to have the option to increase to a 3-way front stage. I have since gone 3-way. But since I haven't gotten around to connecting the rear speakers, I do still have two unused channels. If I never actually get around to the rears, I would have been better off using a 2-channel amp to drive the 3rd pair of front drivers, but I figured I'd be better served by planning ahead for 9 total drivers. And I can still bridge that 4-channel to 2 if I want more power to the front midbass drivers.
 

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I can't remember the exact number, but @Zippy has either 7 or 8 amps in the trunk of his BRZ. So, as above, if you can fit them, there's not really any limit.
I believe he told me they are all Mono amps from Japan. All I know is it sounded very clean and dynamic.
 
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In my install, I am using three 6 channel amps in a 14 channel configuration. Capable of 12 x 150w & 2 x 600w

I love it & it is not as loud as you would think but, I also don’t have much overlap (3db or less) because I don’t like to hear any hiss from the amps.
 

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I can't remember the exact number, but @Zippy has either 7 or 8 amps in the trunk of his BRZ. So, as above, if you can fit them, there's not really any limit.
Just ran across one of his older posts, believe it was 7 bewith mono amps like 70w or 100w x 1. Im running a bewith 4 channel at the moment, very nice amps.
 

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As others have said, there's nothing stopping you if you have the space and your electrical system can support it.

On the flip side, I think it seems a bit silly to take up all that space and add all the additional cost and complexity (extra wires, fuses, RCAs, distribution blocks) when your ultimate goal is a fairly simple 4-way setup. Can you do it? Sure. But I think I'd rather sell them and buy 2 or 3 amps total that would meet my needs.

Granted, these appear to be fairly compact. And considering all 5 would retail for about $1100 total, you might not be able to buy a decent marine 6 channel and larger mono for what you'd get selling them.
 

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Bridging amp channels is definitely a wild card in the overall question - I used the words "functional amp channels" for this reason. So for 10 drivers, you could have 20 amp channels bridged to 10 functional amp channels, and you're golden. I'd say as long as you have the money and space to install them, go as nuts as you'd like! That's par for the course for us nut-cases on this forum, and I love it. Best of luck with your install, SoldierDad - you will have tremendous flexibility and gobs of power on-hand to get you where you want to be. Let us know how you fare.
 

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With that many amplifiers you will probably need a relay for remote turn on to ensure your amps don't cut out. Grab one with a built in diode to save yourself a headache and avoid popping when the amps turn off. Use the Remote Out from the MiniDSP (delayed) as the trigger for the relay to avoid popping when the amps turn on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
With that many amplifiers you will probably need a relay for remote turn on to ensure your amps don't cut out. Grab one with a built in diode to save yourself a headache and avoid popping when the amps turn off. Use the Remote Out from the MiniDSP (delayed) as the trigger for the relay to avoid popping when the amps turn on.
Thanks. I did consider that. I was considering using a relay that fed a small distribution block that could also power a fan or two, along with the remote wires for the amps
 

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Thanks. I actually do think they'd look cool if they were mounted side by side in the back. My only issue is where to put the DSP, but I think I can fit it up front under the steering column or behind the glove box.
Sounds like fun, but that's gonna be a helluva lot of RCAs to run from the front to all of the amplifiers in the rear, and a lot of speaker wiring as well.

You might want to replace just one of those amplifiers with a good combination DSP/Amplifier unit to keep at least 90% of the RCA signal wiring short and confined to the rear with the amps. It might also be nice to have that "spare" amp set aside "just in case".

EDIT: Sorry I missed that you already have a miniDSP 8x12. Great choice, but I would still try to mount it with the amplifiers if possible.

@Nick_15_KL
I would use a relay if you are going to power multiple cooling fans, and keep them on a separate circuit from the amp remote turn-ons. HOWEVER, barevids on YouTube (who is an amplifier repair tech) posted a video showing that the remote turn-on circuits within 95% of the amplifiers that are made need WAY LESS power (current) than a standard Bosch automotive relay that is typically used for this purpose, even when you need to turn on 8 or more amplifiers!

But if you do use a relay, the "Quenching" Diode is definitely a good idea.

 

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As stated the limiting factor for the number of amps to me is the vehicles electrical system. Some cars can’t even handle a single big amp. So depending on how much power all those a,ps need, you might need to add a second battery which is pretty easy to do in a JK.

then it’s just a matter of how much space you have to put them, in my JKU my 2 amps are under the back seats.
 

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Also in favour of using them all. Nice compact class D units so easier on the cars electrical system and low on heat output compared with a/b amps.

Couple of positives is you can run fully active and time align all of your speakers rather than compromising when running passive crossovers. Second is the fun of doing it.

One of the learnings I had with my dsp ( different brand ) was it the power on circuit failed as the 160 milliamperes required to drive a relay to turn on my amps was too much for it. I’d go for a solid state relay that has a lower trigger current. I also added two distributor blocks. One for high current and one for power on and power to the dsp and bunch of other low current gadgets . Used the power on from the head unit via a relay to bring up the second distribution block.

For rcas have a look at the twisted pair types and it will make the loom far easier to make up. I made custom ones but the cable loom was quite thick so took a bit of cable management.

Good luck with it all. Sounding like a fun project
 
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