DiyMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner
1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I have a 2001 Nissan Sentra GXE.

I'm putting four CT Sounds Strato 10's on a Smart 5 eventually.
For now I'm putting four CT Sounds Tropo 10's on a Smart 3 in the trunk.
The front doors will have Hertz Dieci DSK 165.3 components with the tweeters being fabricated into the sail panels.
The kick panels will have Hertz Dieci DCX 87.3 coaxials fabricated into them.
The rear deck will have Hertz Dieci DCX 165.3 coaxials.

My goal is to have a daily driver SQL build. I want a good amount of clarity but I also want to be able to get really loud.

My questions are:

1. How much of the surface area in the doors the roof the trunk and the floor do I need to cover to realistically get a good result? Do I need to spend a bunch of money to cover every single inch of the car like I see them do on the YouTube videos?

2. Do I really need to get like 90 or 120 mil? Is there anything really wrong with 50 mil?

3. Recovering more area with 50 mil give the same result as covering a smaller area in 80 mil?

4. If I cover the floor beneath the carpet with closed cell foam do I still need to put the regular sound deadener there too? The new carpet that I bought has a pretty thick layer of cushion below it and I'm worried that with the closed cell foam it might raise it up up too high if I add the regular deadener too.

5. I reupholstered the rear deck cover. I'm planning on covering the rear deck metal with sound deadener before I put it back in. Will that keep the rear deck from rattling or do I need to actually cover the bottom of the rear deck and the metal?

6. Any other advice that I may have missed or you can help me out with?

Thank you for taking the time to read this and respond.

Lewis King
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,799 Posts
Focus on the larger, flatter surfaces. With a good product 1/3 coverage is plenty, there's little benefit in 100% coverage with a vibration dampener. This type of sound deadening will not help against road and tire noise, that requires a full layer of a dense material like mass loaded vinyl, so I wouldn't bother doing anything to the floor. The floor has a lot of bends for structure and won't resonate like a roof or flat surface will, so unless you cover the entire floor in MLV.

There are plenty of discussions about products, there's even a pretty objective comparison (showdown) thread out there somewhere, reading through those will help you see what difference a thicker/better quality product will do for you. Thicker aluminum is helpful, but the formula used for the butyl adhesive is also very important.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,083 Posts

Thank god for archive - that was the best website for sound deadening, but he retired in 2019 and the site recently went offline.
 
  • Like
Reactions: dasupr3mek1ng

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks. I already bought some Mat 66 50ml. I have 50 ft of it I was thinking that should be enough to apply to pretty much the trunk and the entire interior where it's needed including the doors. Hopefully I was right.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,083 Posts
Thanks. I already bought some Mat 66 50ml. I have 50 ft of it I was thinking that should be enough to apply to pretty much the trunk and the entire interior where it's needed including the doors. Hopefully I was right.
Plenty if you figure 2.5 sq feet per door = 10sq ft (which is prob twice as much as needed @ 25% coverage). That leaves 40 for the trunk and gas tank door.
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
20,774 Posts
Thanks. I already bought some Mat 66 50ml. I have 50 ft of it I was thinking that should be enough to apply to pretty much the trunk and the entire interior where it's needed including the doors. Hopefully I was right.
Mat66 is killmat with a different logo. I'd highly suggest rethinking using it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
577 Posts
kinda a dumb question I know some products are obviously better than others but why for this particular brand.

Thanks
Good deadeners will have a good butyl rubber formula with little fillers. These cheaper ones will be more filler than butyl, or maybe use a cheaper filler or formula that causes poor performance and/or melting.

Kilmat, and a load of other companies, are made from just one factory. The sub companies just ask for them to make it with their logo, and take the profit.

Skizer can correct me if I misspoke somewhere, this is all just to my knowledge. Homies got a decent amount of experience here :p
 
  • Like
Reactions: SkizeR

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Plenty if you figure 2.5 sq feet per door = 10sq ft (which is prob twice as much as needed @ 25% coverage). That leaves 40 for the trunk and gas tank door.
So I got home from work today and there was a box outside of my house that I hadn't ordered. When I opened it it was another 50 ft of Mat 66. I contacted Amazon and let them know they had shipped it to me an error as I already had the 50 that I first order the dude told me to keep it or throw it away so now I have a hundred feet of Matt 66 to cover the entire car with. Thank you Amazon shipping guy!

So since I have that amount I'm assuming covering the entire car including the floor and the roof would yield much better results than applying in spot areas right?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,800 Posts
So I got home from work today and there was a box outside of my house that I hadn't ordered. When I opened it it was another 50 ft of Mat 66. I contacted Amazon and let them know they had shipped it to me an error as I already had the 50 that I first order the dude told me to keep it or throw it away so now I have a hundred feet of Matt 66 to cover the entire car with. Thank you Amazon shipping guy!

So since I have that amount I'm assuming covering the entire car including the floor and the roof would yield much better results than applying in spot areas right?
I would return the one you paid for, sell the freebie and pool that money into something that actually works.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I would return the one you paid for, sell the freebie and pool that money into something that actually works.
Yeah I should do it the right way but that can get expensive and I'm already way over budget. It was originally supposed to be $2,000 until I spent $1,000 on electrical by itself. After that it really got out of hand. :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:

By my last calculation I'm around $3200 conservatively and I still need a good single din mechless Bluetooth deck, more RCA wires, and some other random things I missed. I'm estimating about $4000 when I'm done if I'm lucky.

I'm thinking about getting the boss single din 9-in touch screen. That's $300 if I cheap out on the radio. It'll probably end up costing more like $600. It's really looking like I've doubled my original budget.

So yeah I gotta slow down on pressing the buy button. Probably won't though. :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

Lewis King
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,909 Posts
So what's a good single din Bluetooth mechless that puts out clean signal?
There's only one (it's not mechless but you can't beat the quality for the price) - DEH-80PRS - In-dash - 3-way Active Crossover Network, Auto EQ, and Auto Time Alignment - Audio CD Receiver

By my last calculation I'm around $3200 conservatively and I still need a good single din mechless Bluetooth deck, more RCA wires, and some other random things I missed. I'm estimating about $4000 when I'm done if I'm lucky.
Even if it takes you another year to save up the difference between cheap'n out on the sound deadening and doing it right you are much better off to do it right. You will rue the day you installed the stuff when it melts and you have sell the car because that's easier than starting over and removing the cheap stuff. Sound Deadening correctly is the single greatest upgrade you can make in car audio. My coworker spent close to this same amount in his 69 Camaro and was very disappointed till his wife paid for it to be deadened correctly as an anniversary present (they also replaced numerous broken panels, clips, armrests, headliner, carpet, etc.) and now they are both planning to keep it forever because they both love the fact that it's quieter inside than her Accord and sounds WAY better than the Mark Levinson in his daily.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Hood Bumper Automotive design
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Hood Road surface Automotive design
Hood Automotive tire Black Motor vehicle Bumper
Automotive tire Tire Motor vehicle Hood Automotive lighting
Automotive tire Automotive lighting Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design


I applied it to the rear deck today. I just saw your reply. What do you think? It was 102 outside when I did the application but it didn't seem like it was melting at all.

I can't tell a difference between how it sounded before and how it sounds now though. It's much less hollow sounding and more thump sounding. Is that what it's supposed to do?

Lewis King
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,171 Posts
Yeah I should do it the right way but that can get expensive and I'm already way over budget. It was originally supposed to be $2,000 until I spent $1,000 on electrical by itself. After that it really got out of hand.

By my last calculation I'm around $3200 conservatively and I still need a good single din mechless Bluetooth deck, more RCA wires, and some other random things I missed. I'm estimating about $4000 when I'm done if I'm lucky.

I'm thinking about getting the boss single din 9-in touch screen. That's $300 if I cheap out on the radio. It'll probably end up costing more like $600. It's really looking like I've doubled my original budget.

So yeah I gotta slow down on pressing the buy button. Probably won't though.

Lewis King
If you're gonna get a big touch screen you should look at Joying. And the aforementioned DEH-80PRS for a non-touchscreen hu.
Stay away from Boss.
 
  • Like
Reactions: dasupr3mek1ng

·
Registered
Joined
·
320 Posts
So since I have that amount I'm assuming covering the entire car including the floor and the roof would yield much better results than applying in spot areas right?
I bought 2 boxes of 50mil and 1 80 mil for my car, I used up 1 of the 50 and 1 of the 80 without doing the floor or the headliner. my car had factory deadener/padding on the floor, and they assembled the car on top of it, and that was more than I wanted to pull out for the minimal gain I might have achieved.

I covered every inch I could reach on the insides of the doors and the inner skin of the doors, every surface of the trunk and deck and trunk lid I could. I have zero rattles or buzzing in my front doors.

I also bought Killmat, received Mat 66. I have no melting in a dark blue car, in the sun. When I was installing it, I had it laying in the sun on a black moving blanket, it was too hot to touch but it never "melted".

Not everyone is competing in their vehicles, that's a tiny fraction of people on this site and even smaller fraction of people installing equipment in their cars. I have disposable income, I could spend thousands on deadening but I just don't see the purpose of it. Especially since it's something you can never use again, everything else you can take out if you sell the car.

To me, car audio is just something to do to get better sound out of crap environment and I'd rather spend a few grand and do it myself than pay for the factory "upgrade" package. If I wanted to compete at the highest levels, sure, it's like everything else, pay to win.

Anyway, the deadener will be fine, but you'll probably need more. I have that unused box in my garage, but it'll probably cost more to ship it to you than just ordering another from Amazon. I was going to put it in our other car, but my wife just ordered a new one, so I'll wait and put it in there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I bought 2 boxes of 50mil and 1 80 mil for my car, I used up 1 of the 50 and 1 of the 80 without doing the floor or the headliner. my car had factory deadener/padding on the floor, and they assembled the car on top of it, and that was more than I wanted to pull out for the minimal gain I might have achieved.

I covered every inch I could reach on the insides of the doors and the inner skin of the doors, every surface of the trunk and deck and trunk lid I could. I have zero rattles or buzzing in my front doors.

I also bought Killmat, received Mat 66. I have no melting in a dark blue car, in the sun. When I was installing it, I had it laying in the sun on a black moving blanket, it was too hot to touch but it never "melted".

Not everyone is competing in their vehicles, that's a tiny fraction of people on this site and even smaller fraction of people installing equipment in their cars. I have disposable income, I could spend thousands on deadening but I just don't see the purpose of it. Especially since it's something you can never use again, everything else you can take out if you sell the car.

To me, car audio is just something to do to get better sound out of crap environment and I'd rather spend a few grand and do it myself than pay for the factory "upgrade" package. If I wanted to compete at the highest levels, sure, it's like everything else, pay to win.

Anyway, the deadener will be fine, but you'll probably need more. I have that unused box in my garage, but it'll probably cost more to ship it to you than just ordering another from Amazon. I was going to put it in our other car, but my wife just ordered a new one, so I'll wait and put it in there.
Thanks for the feedback.

I have 2 boxes of I'm at 66 and I've only used three pieces so far. That's what you see on the deck so I basically still have like 91 pieces to do the entire rest of the car.

I could take another one and cut it up into really small pieces to get the parts that I missed but I'd rather do the rest of the car first see how much I have left over and then apply it at that point.

Based on what you're telling me I should probably do all four doors next I'm guessing? Either that or the trunk will give me the most results I'm thinking.

Lewis King
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,909 Posts
View attachment 342474 View attachment 342475 View attachment 342476 View attachment 342477 View attachment 342478

I applied it to the rear deck today. I just saw your reply. What do you think? It was 102 outside when I did the application but it didn't seem like it was melting at all.

I can't tell a difference between how it sounded before and how it sounds now though. It's much less hollow sounding and more thump sounding. Is that what it's supposed to do?

Lewis King
It doesn't melt until it gets over 180-240 degrees sitting in the sun for 8-10 Hours and then usually only on vertical or inverted surfaces (door skins, roof, etc.) Worse in black cars and equatorial climates.

It lowers the resonant frequency of the metal you're applying it to so that instead of sound like a tin can it sounds like coffin. You won't notice any difference in road noise or the overall sound in the cabin till you do the doors, floor and possibly the roof. But once you do the difference will be palpable and you're likely to get good enough results to be very happy with the result.
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top