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Discussion Starter #1
I'm considereing redoing my sub box, for my 15" Tempest, making it out of fiberglass/MDF like i wanted before. I really wonder how i can make the proper skeleton and still have the room that i want, as the places that i plan on putting it are going to be really difficult to get in and out of the car, and will be wrapped around my spare tire area. My biggest concern is weight, getting plenty of room for my sub, and getting the spare tire in and out. As well getting it in and out of the car. I've been talking alot lately about redoing it.

If you look at his page, His name is Mark aka Here-I-Come, does awesome work. You see there is a skeleton for the sub enclosure then done in fiberglass. How would someone go about doing a full rear section like this? I want to do the center like his with the XXX, but doing mine with a tempest, and using the sides where he dosent use them as parts of the enclosure, and taking out all of my stock rear panels, and making new panels of fiberglass, to cover the areas on each side, where he displays the processors and dblocks and fuses.

How would i do something like this and have the box made in sections (sides of the box will be PART of the enclosure volume, so connections will need to be made to the front of the box where sub is in the center of the rear.



LINKY:http://www.heavenlysnds.elitecaraudio.org/photo.html

BTW Mark if you see this i hope you don't mind me putting this up here, for an example.

Actual Rear photo's of the car hatch in question: Taken From Mando's tC deadening guide:
http://www.icixsound.com/vb/showthread.php?t=12097&highlight=tC+deadening+guide




So how could i get around 4.5cf out of a skeleton style fiberglass box....Or should i move to get a new set of subs somehow, when i can afford them? I would hope a pair of nice 12's or small box 15's would be more than enough.

Any ideas?

My first thoughts on NEW subs would be a pair of IDQ12's or an IDQ15, but i'm not really sure if either would be enough for my needs, and wants. But i do know they would work exceptionally well in a smaller size Box.
 

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There is this guy Tim Baillie who lives in BC Canada who does good work, his website, HZeMall showcases plenty of trunk build ups with nice pics. You might get some ideas from his website. HzEmall.com
 

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No problem on the picture, as many as you need.

Now let see the easy way would be just like I done the Mazda 3 in the picture.

1. Measure from side to side to get your width, then the max height the enclosure can be, then the max depth from the back of the set to the place you want it to stop on the bottom, then measure the depth of the sub, this will give you a idea of how deep the enclosure needs to be on top. Now add the bottom and top depth and divide by 2. Now multiple HxWxD and then divide that by 1728 to give you a rough figure of the air space you will have.

2. Now build a box with no front and or top. Basically a large squared "U" shape that goes from one wall to the other with the bottom on it. But cut the bottom to the shape you would like, so you could remove your spare. I remember this is a must for you. Also only screw the back wall on with a few screws up will need to remove it later

3. Now start picturing how you want the front of the enclosure to look. Now make some mounts to hold the rings for the sub/subs. Place them in the position you would like for the sub to be in.

4. Then make some mounts/braces to place around the box insides. Remember to follow the shape you want the box to be. These mounts will help strengthen the enclosure and give a base for the shape of the front of the box.

5. Now say you want to mount the amps on the box (I would to save space. measure you amps and cut two peace of 3/4 MDF an inch or so longer on each side for all amps. Now screw, nail which ever you use and glue them together and then mount these to the area you want the amps mounted. Make more mounts/braces if need to mount them.

6. Now comes the fun part, Fiber glassing. Go to you local fabric store and buy some fleece. For want you want to do I would say 10 yards would be more than enough. Now go to the local dollar store and buy those cheap red paint brushes the more the better. Now found the cheapest place to buy fiberglass resin and body filler. For fiberglass I would say the local marine shop or boat supply store. For body filler I would say find a body shop supply store, believe it or not it a lot of them around and sand paper, rubber gloves and body filler is cheaper from them and they have to good stuff at very good prices. Buy good staple gun and a lot of staples and some good spray glue. And buy some masks to protection you from the chemicals.

7. Now pull the fleece over the enclosure making sure it is very tight and start to staple the fleece in place. Staple the fleece to the mounts/braces to get the shape you want. Make sure to staple the fleece that covers the amp racks flat. Look over the enclosure to make sure you don't leave any small opening at the edges.

8. Now its time to mix the chemicals. I would talk to the guys at the boat supply store you an idea on the best way to mix it. I have done it so many times to I just go bay to the weather. At you mix just take the biggies paint brush and paint the mixture on the fleece making sure it soaks all the way through. Let harden, once hard remove the back of the enclosure. Now spay glue and staple more fleece to the inside of the box. This well make the front wall thicker and Make sure to have the front side facing down, because fiberglass resin will back the glue give if it’s up right. Again let harden, once harden check to make sure there are no openings or space at the in the place where the fiberglass meets the MDF. Now Screw and glue the back on.

9. Now use the body filler the smoother and reshape the front side, this means sanding and more sanding and more sanding and some more sanding. Now wrap in what ever you want to or have it painted, but if it is going to be painted sand, sand, sand and sand some more up until around 180 or so the paint shop should do the rest.

Now this is a little rough be it is the basic idea.

Hope this helps. I will try and write a more detail one in and post it in the coming days.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I read over your steps, but my problem comes with being able to take out the spare, have enough room for the sub to fit without looking extreemly odd, getting enough airspace using behind the seats (center of the rear), and the sides, and have them removable so i can take them out to do finishing work, or do you normally do all of the work while its in the car? That is when you working in low tolerance places. And how do you, if you make panels Like in the one above on the sides, get the piece to fit like the factory trim pieces and connect to the car?

I have that Idea of the U shaped design like you did on the Mazda 3, and i think it could easily be done, the center piece that is, but i'd still be lacking around 1/2 of my space needed, which is why i considered the sides or the uprights parts of the "U" figure to be enclosure volume as well, but that would give me problems getting it in and out of the car, as the box would be wider than the opening is, But i guess i could alwyas opt to take all of the seats out and go in that way, after its made. lol.

With that "U" Shape, the center of the U (Holding water) would house the spare tire, which would be constructed using a false floor of some sort to cover the spare. I'm just highly worried that the box will not be large enough, nor have enough tolerances with height and such of the sub to pull it off properly.

As you can see in the picture of the rear, Full rear picture, not side's, the spare tire well goes almost the whole distance of the rear, from back to front, that space b/w the curve of the spare well, and the beam that goes across is something like 1-2", so that gives me a problem with sturdyness where it will sit. Another problem i have is the overhang of the sub into the spare well, I would like to have the sub situated in the center of the rear (mainly for balance and aesthetical reasons) but if i could fit it sitting on the right side of the rear area and not have any problems removing my spare than that would work VERY well, and i would be really happy going that route. As you can see the Right side floor is wider than the right side, outside of the spare well. So that would be the ideal place if i had to choose sides. But it would still be rear firing, or at least angled towards the center of the rear of the car and slightly at an up angle.

I will try to draw up a picture using pain later tonight if i can find a thourough picture of the interior to make my idea more concrete. But mabey you have a pretty good idea so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I read over your steps, but my problem comes with being able to take out the spare, have enough room for the sub to fit without looking extreemly odd, getting enough airspace using behind the seats (center of the rear), and the sides, and have them removable so i can take them out to do finishing work, or do you normally do all of the work while its in the car? That is when you working in low tolerance places. And how do you, if you make panels Like in the one above on the sides, get the piece to fit like the factory trim pieces and connect to the car?

I have that Idea of the U shaped design like you did on the Mazda 3, and i think it could easily be done, the center piece that is, but i'd still be lacking around 1/2 of my space needed, which is why i considered the sides or the uprights parts of the "U" figure to be enclosure volume as well, but that would give me problems getting it in and out of the car, as the box would be wider than the opening is, But i guess i could alwyas opt to take all of the seats out and go in that way, after its made. lol.

With that "U" Shape, the center of the U (Holding water) would house the spare tire, which would be constructed using a false floor of some sort to cover the spare. I'm just highly worried that the box will not be large enough, nor have enough tolerances with height and such of the sub to pull it off properly.

As you can see in the picture of the rear, Full rear picture, not side's, the spare tire well goes almost the whole distance of the rear, from back to front, that space b/w the curve of the spare well, and the beam that goes across is something like 1-2", so that gives me a problem with sturdyness where it will sit. Another problem i have is the overhang of the sub into the spare well, I would like to have the sub situated in the center of the rear (mainly for balance and aesthetical reasons) but if i could fit it sitting on the right side of the rear area and not have any problems removing my spare than that would work VERY well, and i would be really happy going that route. As you can see the Right side floor is wider than the right side, outside of the spare well. So that would be the ideal place if i had to choose sides. But it would still be rear firing, or at least angled towards the center of the rear of the car and slightly at an up angle.

I will try to draw up a picture using pain later tonight if i can find a thourough picture of the interior to make my idea more concrete. But mabey you have a pretty good idea so far.
 

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I see what you are saying about the open of the hatch. As I remember from the one I worked on it is a bit narrower than the trunk. Could you remove it by going throung the back seat area and open the front doors. Yes you would have to take out the front seats. I know more work.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I could do it that way, but then i think about the width again. If you look in majority of the pictures of the rear, there is the cross member b/w the rear axles, they have the angled piece which the shock mounts attach too. That black piece and angled pieces i beleive might interferre as well. The box would need to be straight on the sides, to get by them, instead of jutting out into the sides near the back. Where its another 4-5" wider than the wheel well areas. So that would need to be considered as well. But that dosent seem as much as a problem to me as getting the airspace out of the areas needed for the box. Basically both sides on the rear, up to the hatch seam, and then around to the center of the rear, with the sub mounted either in the center of the middle piece, or on the right side.

I'm not worried about having just a little more work, thats fine to me, to take out the seats but i will do it only if its a must to get the box in and out for fitting, and the spare to be taken in and out as well. As i should NOT at all need to take the box out once it is done and finished, unless i take it out for something better. I just need complete access to the spare tire :( (not that i want to even keep it in there, my parents are making me).
 
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