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Reinforce inside doors, the wall behind the speaker with 3 layers of dynamat and the wall you install the speaker with one or more layers of dynamat and use metal or aluminium spacer for the speaker, no wood or plastic. If the inside door panel were the speaker sits flex try to use aluminum plate for strong and rigid speaker placement. Imagine that you going to put a subwoofer in a door on IB.
 

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I saw a build on here once (I think maybe a European guy) reinforced the inside of his door panels with a wooden frame. It looked almost like a canoe would. I did a similar thing but only added a brace between outer skin and inner skin just below where the midbass is mounted. I have this thing for duct seal too!
 

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this forum could use a collective, since to so many of us the barrier to good door sound is the use of good quality adapters.

all the adapters that have been made, then the car is sold and the adapters go in the trash, because who would want bed-liner covered MDF baffles that are custom fitted to the car? You know I have even been guilty of it, and that's saying something.

so, if we say, create a baseline for quality, then post when you don't need them anymore, a baffle bulletin board, someone who just can't manage it can buy some DIY goodness, and others who have a few extra because they like to try product, could make a little toward the expenses of building them...

then you'd see a lot of happy audio guys, eh? Maybe branch it out, add a few car panel templates and a pack of easy rivets, to fit the OEM voids...


nah, that would be way too useful.
 

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this forum could use a collective, since to so many of us the barrier to good door sound is the use of good quality adapters.

all the adapters that have been made, then the car is sold and the adapters go in the trash, because who would want bed-liner covered MDF baffles that are custom fitted to the car? You know I have even been guilty of it, and that's saying something.

so, if we say, create a baseline for quality, then post when you don't need them anymore, a baffle bulletin board, someone who just can't manage it can buy some DIY goodness, and others who have a few extra because they like to try product, could make a little toward the expenses of building them...

then you'd see a lot of happy audio guys, eh? Maybe branch it out, add a few car panel templates and a pack of easy rivets, to fit the OEM voids...


nah, that would be way too useful.
That's a great idea. Now who has some MDF 8th gen Civic door baffles they no longer need? I have cash...:eek:
 

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I meant this part
Finally there is a foam ring around the outside of the baffle. This helps to direct all of the sound from the front wave of the speaker through the grill mesh or hole in the factory door panel. If this ring is not there then the sound waves are free to bounce around within the door panel or dash which can lead to cancelation or unwanted vibrations within the panel itself. We will need to include a foam ring in order to direct the sound as desired.
The foam can't direct sound or act as a barrier.
 

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If the tuning on your setup sucks, you're wasting your time going berserk with adapters hoping to miraculously get incredible mid bass. If the tuning is medium to good, you will notice more of a difference. Thick adapter rings help in isolating the driver from the door and hence fewer vibrations / resonance which cancel out a ton of the low end from the mid. You gain some output down low and the 60-100 range sounds much cleaner.

But if you're crossing the sub and mids ~100 or higher, you're not going to hear the extra output around 60-100 from the midbass, as the sub is running that range and it will drown out the extra that the mid puts out.

[edit] The point is, if with the doors sealed and the driver mounted securely maybe with a layer of dynamat between the plastic ring adapter and the door, if with this install you feel like you're lacking for mid bass, focus on the tuning before worrying about adapters. Your adapters aren't holding back the mid bass the tune is. Lastly, foam rings don't direct sound.[/edit]
 

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if you have a factory hole that a stock plastic speaker frame used to fit, and there's gaps because you just held the speaker in the hole and looked for where you could fit a screw in one of the screw holes already there, then moved the speaker over to where you could drill another hole, and now two screws are solidly holding down your speaker over a hole where there are 1/4" gaps between the speaker frame and door metal, I think you could expect some modest improvement before tuning with a DIY MDF buildout.
 

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Using them in the inside won't be advisable since they could absorb water for extended period of time instead of being drained out via the bottom holes of the door. The absorption could lead to increased humid situation for the speakers rear.

Further more the speakers are provided with a ring of adhesive foam. Use that to make a perfect seal and paint/coat your wood baffles before attaching. Brings rigidity and allows to be be waterproof (won't absorb seeping rain water)


My 2cents
 

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Does anyone know where to buy prefabricated wooden baffles for specific makes/models? You'd think someone would sell them, but my research hasn't turned anything up.
 
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