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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi!

Here's the schematic (from Audiotec-Fischer) useful for makin your own remote controller compatible with the DSP's from Helix (P-DSP and C-DSP) and Brax (NOX4 amplifier built-in DSP).

Apparently this thing is A MUST if you have only one sound source, you connect it thru the optical fiber and you would like to control the volume level of your system ;)

You will need a 10k Ohm linear potentiometer (or 2 if you'd like to have the sub control too) and a 12pin male "Micro Match" type connector (1.27 mm pin threshold)

Most potentiometers will have 3 connectros they're A C B no matter from which side you look. (but remember they will work "from the left to the right" for the side you looked from :D ) so... you connect:
A) +3.3V
C) control signal (main remote / sub remote)
B) ground (masse)

Of course you can have the + and - "bridged" till your potentiometers - so for two pots you'll need 4 wire cable.

Helix DSP Remote Controller Schematic.jpg

View attachment DSP Level Regler.pdf

If you'd have any problems with locating the pin numbers - here's explanation.

View attachment Pinning MicroMatch Control Input.pdf

I still don't know what the "Switch" connectors are for. Will post an update when find out (I believe they are for swithing between 2 saved configs but I'm not sure yet)
 

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Nice work.

Just a few questions;

Is any 10k linear potentiometer suitable?
Is any male to male micromatch connector (1.27 pitch) suitable?
Why are the pins for the P-DSP labelled right to left on your diagram, but left to right on the schematics?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Nice work.

Just a few questions;

Is any 10k linear potentiometer suitable?
Is any male to male micromatch connector (1.27 pitch) suitable?
Why are the pins for the P-DSP labelled right to left on your diagram, but left to right on the schematics?
1. Well, I think any "one turn", linear, 10k should be OK. I used carbon/graphite ones - just like for the usual volume control.
2. There's no "male to male" connector as the socket in the DSP is female. Any male 12 pin Micro Match will be ok. The only difference will be how you connect your wires to the plug. (ribbon / solder etc.)
3. It's dependant on the positioning of the socket on the DSP - as you can see the pin 12 is on the left in P-DSP and NOX4 but it's on the right in C-DSP. The pin 12 will always be on the side with the "gap".
 

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1. Well, I think any "one turn", linear, 10k should be OK. I used carbon/graphite ones - just like for the usual volume control.
2. There's no "male to male" connector as the socket in the DSP is female. Any male 12 pin Micro Match will be ok. The only difference will be how you connect your wires to the plug. (ribbon / solder etc.)
3. It's dependant on the positioning of the socket on the DSP - as you can see the pin 12 is on the left in P-DSP and NOX4 but it's on the right in C-DSP. The pin 12 will always be on the side with the "gap".
Thanks. Yes I meant the male plug! Think i'm going to go for ribbon and i understand the pin positioning now :) Just wish Helix made it clear on the schematic.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
BTW: I you're really unsure of the pin locations you can always use two needles and a multimeter to find the +3.3V and GROUND coneectors. (just be be careful to not short circuit them ;) )
 

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BTW: I you're really unsure of the pin locations you can always use two needles and a multimeter to find the +3.3V and GROUND coneectors. (just be be careful to not short circuit them ;) )
Ordered a few of the connectors today. My soldering technique is probably really bad but im first going to see if it works then maybe get my installer to do a better job.

Its ok you've made the pin locations clear now. Plus i wouldn't trust myself i'd probably fry it or something!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
OK - just got an answer from Audiotec-Fischer and... the "switch" is made for changing the input from analog to optical and back - useful when you use both inputs as the radio cannot be streamed thru fiber.
 

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OK - just got an answer from Audiotec-Fischer and... the "switch" is made for changing the input from analog to optical and back - useful when you use both inputs as the radio cannot be streamed thru fiber.
So if im just using speaker level input, there's no need to connect the "switch" right?
 

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OK - just got an answer from Audiotec-Fischer and... the "switch" is made for changing the input from analog to optical and back - useful when you use both inputs as the radio cannot be streamed thru fiber.
What type of "switch" is to be used is it the usual on/off type? Do you have a link for that?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'm not so familiar with electronic components and their names/symbols.

About the pot - physically you need two separate pots for both controls. So as long as this pot can control both of his "gangs" separately (push/pull) it is ok.

And to the switch - again don't know the proper names but you'll need a swith that will switch between two inputs into one output. Physically you need to put OR the +3.3V OR the Ground to Pin 5. It's made to avoid any undefined state.
 

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Hi,
since we have to install 5 wires to front,
do you think ehternet cable will be good enough?
( im affraid the wires in ethernet cable too thins. )
 

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I have information about C-DSP:
The technical director of Audiotec-Fischer replied the following :
“...
the C-DSP does not offer the possibility to switch between different input sources.
The customer has to decide during the setup process with the DSP PC-Tool software which inputs he likes to use, so either the SPDIF input or the lowlevel/highlevel inputs.
It is not possible to use both digital and analog inputs at the same time and switch between these!
If the SPDIF input is defined in the software setup as input , the remote control URC 2A is necessary to control the output volume.
The HELIX Bluetooth-Interface isn't available so far and we have postponed its development.....”

So as you can see, your only solution, would be to use C-DSP with the URC 2A
 

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I have information about C-DSP:
The technical director of Audiotec-Fischer replied the following :
“...
the C-DSP does not offer the possibility to switch between different input sources.
The customer has to decide during the setup process with the DSP PC-Tool software which inputs he likes to use, so either the SPDIF input or the lowlevel/highlevel inputs.
It is not possible to use both digital and analog inputs at the same time and switch between these!
If the SPDIF input is defined in the software setup as input , the remote control URC 2A is necessary to control the output volume.
The HELIX Bluetooth-Interface isn't available so far and we have postponed its development.....”

So as you can see, your only solution, would be to use C-DSP with the URC 2A
Is it same for P DSP as well?
 

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Is it same for P DSP as well?
I think so......
:(

I used new release of P-DSP(Helix DSP). It has round connector for the remote control, instead of square.

I installed Helix DSP month ago.
The main problem of P-DSP, C-DSP, Helix DSP - are opened inputs.
When i send SPDIF(from DVD changer DHA-S680) or High Level(OEM Head unit) to the processor, I always have a powerful punch on the output of DSP in front of speakers. I am shocked by this!!!!!!!!!!!!

This problem has not been solved by HELIX.
It is very sad.

I'm thinking I'll install Alpine PXA-H800 + RUX-C800 instead of Helix DSP.
 

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If it is so then its really shocking for Helix not to have supported their product.I was planning to use both ipod classic 160GB/iphone 64GB via pure i20 to DSP to play stored apple lossless music and stock HU of my car for CDs but now i guess I may have to go for 80PRS to play CD/ipod or just ipod/phone.
 

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If it is so then its really shocking for Helix not to have supported their product.I was planning to use both ipod classic 160GB/iphone 64GB via pure i20 to DSP to play stored apple lossless music and stock HU of my car for CDs but now i guess I may have to go for 80PRS to play CD/ipod or just ipod/phone.

For example:
If you forget turn the volume to zero - you may damage your speakers! This fact is not in favor of Auditec-Fischer.
:hanged:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
After receiving some questions via PM decided to put here a part of an mail that I've received from Julian Fischer:

"... With the switch you can activate or deactivate the optical input in the same sound setup. This is used when you have connected the CD drive via the optical input and the radio via analog input. For the C-DSP this feature is not so important because the A/D and D/A converters are really good, so that there is no big difference between the optical and analog input but for the P-DSP this feature is more noticeable.

Regarding the connection you are right, the switch switches between ground and +3,3V because we need defined values at the controllers input. Just do nothing might cause an undefined state which is not so good. ..."

As I received this message already after my remote controller was made and installed on 4 wire cable I could not really test this (switch) feature.

The only thing I noticed in comparision to informations found on forum is that I DIDN'T notice any wierd/strange/dangerous noises when I was switching the input sources with my laptop when my system was ON with the amps connected and running.
 

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After receiving some questions via PM decided to put here a part of an mail that I've received from Julian Fischer:

"... With the switch you can activate or deactivate the optical input in the same sound setup. This is used when you have connected the CD drive via the optical input and the radio via analog input. For the C-DSP this feature is not so important because the A/D and D/A converters are really good, so that there is no big difference between the optical and analog input but for the P-DSP this feature is more noticeable.

Regarding the connection you are right, the switch switches between ground and +3,3V because we need defined values at the controllers input. Just do nothing might cause an undefined state which is not so good. ..."

As I received this message already after my remote controller was made and installed on 4 wire cable I could not really test this (switch) feature.

The only thing I noticed in comparision to informations found on forum is that I DIDN'T notice any wierd/strange/dangerous noises when I was switching the input sources with my laptop when my system was ON with the amps connected and running.

Kick appears when I turn on the DVD (Alpine DHA-S680) - appears SPDIF and volume control is turn on. The louder the sound, the more kick.
 
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