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After receiving some questions via PM decided to put here a part of an mail that I've received from Julian Fischer:

"... With the switch you can activate or deactivate the optical input in the same sound setup. This is used when you have connected the CD drive via the optical input and the radio via analog input. For the C-DSP this feature is not so important because the A/D and D/A converters are really good, so that there is no big difference between the optical and analog input but for the P-DSP this feature is more noticeable.

Regarding the connection you are right, the switch switches between ground and +3,3V because we need defined values at the controllers input. Just do nothing might cause an undefined state which is not so good. ..."

As I received this message already after my remote controller was made and installed on 4 wire cable I could not really test this (switch) feature.

The only thing I noticed in comparision to informations found on forum is that I DIDN'T notice any wierd/strange/dangerous noises when I was switching the input sources with my laptop when my system was ON with the amps connected and running.
So does that mean switch should be 2 position on-on type rather than on-off-on? This way there will always be one defined value either radio or digital source.
 

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After receiving some questions via PM decided to put here a part of an mail that I've received from Julian Fischer:

"... With the switch you can activate or deactivate the optical input in the same sound setup. This is used when you have connected the CD drive via the optical input and the radio via analog input. For the C-DSP this feature is not so important because the A/D and D/A converters are really good, so that there is no big difference between the optical and analog input but for the P-DSP this feature is more noticeable.

Regarding the connection you are right, the switch switches between ground and +3,3V because we need defined values at the controllers input. Just do nothing might cause an undefined state which is not so good. ..."

As I received this message already after my remote controller was made and installed on 4 wire cable I could not really test this (switch) feature.

The only thing I noticed in comparision to informations found on forum is that I DIDN'T notice any wierd/strange/dangerous noises when I was switching the input sources with my laptop when my system was ON with the amps connected and running.
After I have hooked two sources (digital and analog) to P DSP how should I go about configuring input channels, both analog input and optical input channels?
 

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Thanks for the info

is there way to use this connector to make the C-DSP switch between Preset 1 & 2 ?



**Edit**

I found on the audiotec-fischer web site even the real remote cant do it :(
 

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Hello !
I got the pin match yesterday from audiotec fisher !!



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Attached you find the pinning of the connector, for identifying the pins look for the asymmetrically aligned pitch.
The shielding is GND.
SUB = subwoofer volume; MAIN = main volume booth 10k potentiometers between 3V3 and GND.
SWITCH = the switch between 3V3 and GND.

At this moment, I can't specify you a release date for the new revision of our software, sorry for that.
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Here's my version, with just a bit more info since I took my URC apart.
The bi-colour LED is only necessary if you're using a pushbutton switch that doesn't give any indication as to which state it's in (ie. in/out), but if you use a toggle or rocker switch then you don't need it (unless you like more lights!)

I found the connector at Newark Electronics, their part # 97K5346. $3 - so buy a couple - the pins are tiny and the ABS can melt if you don't solder quickly.

 

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I scored a great deal on a P-DSP and it's on the way! I'm going to go ahead and order the components for the remote, but I have a question: What's the difference between these two micromatch connectors (part numbers): 8-215083-2 and 1-215083-2?

Comparison at Mouser:
TE Connectivity / AMP 8-215083-2 Headers & Wire Housings | Mouser

Comparison at digikey:
Rectangular Connectors - Free Hanging, Panel Mount | Connectors, Interconnects | DigiKey

Alternatively, could someone give me a link for where to purchase the correct connector in the USA?
 

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What's the difference between these two micromatch connectors (part numbers): 8-215083-2 and 1-215083-2?

Alternatively, could someone give me a link for where to purchase the correct connector in the USA?
Difference is the pitch. Correct number is 571-1-215083-2 with a 1.27 pitch as per the first post.
 

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Difference is the pitch. Correct number is 571-1-215083-2 with a 1.27 pitch as per the first post.
Ahhh...thanks! I for the life of me couldn't find any difference between the two in the product sheet until you pointed that out. Doh! :p
 

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Hey jDigital...
Methinks you messed up on a couple of parts there. The pots should be linear taper (granted that Log is typical for audio, but the processor expects a linear taper as it is just a control voltage), and the 8-pin connector should be a plug, not a socket. I think that's digi-key #2080-ND.
 
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