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Here's my version, with just a bit more info since I took my URC apart.
The bi-colour LED is only necessary if you're using a pushbutton switch that doesn't give any indication as to which state it's in (ie. in/out), but if you use a toggle or rocker switch then you don't need it (unless you like more lights!)

I found the connector at Newark Electronics, their part # 97K5346. $3 - so buy a couple - the pins are tiny and the ABS can melt if you don't solder quickly.

Can someone give me some guidance on this please?

I want to control volume only and be able to switch between the 2 presets on the DSP Pro.

I'll have an Alps pot in my possession tomorrow. I need to order a switch. If I am reading this correctly I need a DPDT switch, correct? Does it need to be a rocker/toggle type switch or can it me a momentary switch? I am having trouble finding a DPDT switch that is small enough and does not looks like ass. SPDT switches seem to be super easy to find and look nice, DPDT not so much.

It shouldn't matter if there is no second pot, correct?

I would like to have the parts I need ordered by Monday so I can have them by the end of the week and get this built and functional.

Thanks in advance!
 

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Thanks Scott.



I'm looking to use an Alps Blue Velvet like Erin had in his car for volume control. I believe I need a 10k linear. Would this be the correct type?

ALPS RK27112 Potentiometer 10K ohm linear B taper pot RK27112A005N RK27 10KBx2 | eBay

Hey! I'm about to build one of these so I will put together a parts list and build log to share with everyone.

To resurrect your question... I would not buy that pot. Briefly glancing over the schematic it looks like you only need a single gang pot (unless you are going push pull). I also think that is way overpriced. I'd probably go with something like this. Alpha makes good pots.

Alpha Single-Gang 16mm, Solder Terms, Linear & Audio Taper - Small Bear Electronics


I build guitar pedals as a hobby. Mouser is a great place to find parts but for small builds like this, sometimes a supplier like smallbear is a better route.
 

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I just built one of these for my DSP.2 and I was wondering if anyone had tried using two 20k pots instead of the 10k. I tested it at first with just a single 10k pot, which worked fine, but I didn't pay close attention to the volume range. Following the schematic, the two pots are in parallel so it cuts the resistance in half giving a range between 0 - ~5k. I didn't know if you would get more volume steps using two 20k pots instead. I think I have some, so I will probably give it a try. I'm going to make an enclosure with my 3D printer and I will post my build when it is completed.
 

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^^^

Nice job! Our 3D printer has been a great tool for things like this... Once we got it to work consistently;) Your layers look consistent.
 

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Looks like Helix themselves have seen this, as their URC.3 looks rather similar.

I have one and like the simplicity over the Director (which I also have) but, the knobs are just too damn small a diameter on the HRC.3.

Despite being a nice solid feel and metal, it is just too fiddly to use. I'm now going to take it apart and see if I can piggy back onto the connections for one of the pots and make my own with a larger better placed seperate volume 'knob', then hide the rest of the URC for switching duties.

Failing that, I'll mate into the RJ connector on the back and make my own complete unit.
 

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Looks like Helix themselves have seen this, as their URC.3 looks rather similar.

I have one and like the simplicity over the Director (which I also have) but, the knobs are just too damn small a diameter on the HRC.3.

Despite being a nice solid feel and metal, it is just too fiddly to use. I'm now going to take it apart and see if I can piggy back onto the connections for one of the pots and make my own with a larger better placed seperate volume 'knob', then hide the rest of the URC for switching duties.

Failing that, I'll mate into the RJ connector on the back and make my own complete unit.
I based my design on the URC.3, I ordered similar knobs to it as well, but ultimately decided on the larger knobs. Depending on the length of the pots in the URC.3, you may be able to just replace the knob, but a larger one might cover the switch. I imagine you can add your own pot to it, but just be aware that it will change the resistance if you don't bypass the original.
 

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Hello


Here's the schematic (from Audiotec-Fischer) useful for makin your own remote controller compatible with the DSP's from Helix


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Anybody know which resistor value for the LED ground is correct here? The parts list uses a value of 120 ohms while the schematic reads 220 ohms.

TIA!
 

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Anybody know which resistor value for the LED ground is correct here? The parts list uses a value of 120 ohms while the schematic reads 220 ohms.

TIA!
I don't know which is correct. I never noticed there were different values listed so I used the 220 ohm from the schematic. FWIW I have been using the 220 ohm with no issues since last March.
 

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Hi guys, is there a possibility to build the remote for Zapco Dsp-z8 too? I just installed mine and want to utilize the optical input. Thanks.

Sent from my ASUS_Z00AD using Tapatalk
 

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Doin' a little thread necromancy, since this helped me. Only wanted a sub nob & the ability to swap between profiles. 3D printer & Fry's, here I come! Here's my first partial print to check fitment. I'm printing the final box, box top and pot knob now.



 

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Does anyone have info on this Helix DSP Controller?

https://youtu.be/pD5t5Q6LC3g
It looks like it's got the same functionality as what we're building, but he has an aurduino driving a screen, and probably using some GPIO's to control the outputs through whatever circuits he's devised to hook up to the two control inputs (that measure voltage level) and the high/low input pin (for the preset select).
 
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