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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My head unit's manual only had diagrams for normal mode, 2 way mode, and 3 way mode, which I am attaching photos of. My question is how specifically do I run it the way I have it shown in the other picture?? With the complexity of systems today, I'm sure this is doable but I haven't found anything on how to so far, its been almost a day and a half of searching... :mad::mad:

I will be running a clarion cz702 head unit, an image dynamics CXT component set on an alpine MRX-F65, a matching CTX coaxial set off of an alpine MRP-F300, and a RF 210 sub off of a power acoustic amp (going to upgrade to RE sub/amp in trunk)

How would I run this all out of the HU, specifically? do I need external hardware, or...?
 

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but what if i wanted to run the components active?
Not sure about the clarion...but technically you could. You could run in 3 way mode. You would take the low section, set it to flat and send it to the coax's. Then use the mid and high for the woofer and tweeter of the comp set.

It's your setup but imo, I would ditch the rear coax's and add a sub instead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Not sure about the clarion...but technically you could. You could run in 3 way mode. You would take the low section, set it to flat and send it to the coax's. Then use the mid and high for the woofer and tweeter of the comp set.

It's your setup but imo, I would ditch the rear coax's and add a sub instead.
My bad I think I miscommunicated; I want to run active comps in the front + rear speakers + a sub, just like in the fourth picture. I went to a car show and there was one vehicle there that was set up like that and I loved the surrounding sound of it.
 

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Well, you could use the low section for both the rear speakers and the sub.(use the rca pass thru to connect into one and then out to the other) You would have to use the sub amp crossover though. So yes, there is a way to do it, but it's not ideal. I personally wouldn't do something like this.


Why not just use the passive xo for the comps?

Also, Rears are a bit of trouble and it's sometimes difficult to integrate them. Just sayin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Why not just use the passive xo for the comps?
I would prefer to run them active to be able to tweak the crossovers, better sound than passive.. I've never heard anything bad about running active, except that it takes time to set them just right.
 

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It can be done as Spyke said but if it was me I would only hook up the front components and the sub and run them active untill you get the hang of that and then maybe add the rears later.Most people find out they don't want the rears and if the rears are crossed over and attenuated to suit my taste they are almost inaudable anyway so no need for them.You may find you want them or maybe not but I would learn how to set up and run just the fronts active first.
 

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I would prefer to run them active to be able to tweak the crossovers, better sound than passive.. I've never heard anything bad about running active, except that it takes time to set them just right.
I've been tuning my active for 3 years. I dream of going passive again.:D

Active is great, but imo it's comparable in audible sq to a good passive set. Active allows you to use your own drivers, which is my fascination with it. I like the ability to throw in any driver I want, and be able to tune it how I want it to sound. If I was going to spend $400+ for a comp set, I wouldn't have a problem using the supplied passive. If you want to set it and forget it, go commercial passive comp. If you have a lot of time on your hands, go active.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I've been tuning my active for 3 years. I dream of going passive again.:D

Active is great, but imo it's comparable in audible sq to a good passive set. Active allows you to use your own drivers, which is my fascination with it. I like the ability to throw in any driver I want, and be able to tune it how I want it to sound. If I was going to spend $400+ for a comp set, I wouldn't have a problem using the supplied passive. If you want to set it and forget it, go commercial passive comp. If you have a lot of time on your hands, go active.
3 years... Wow!!!:eek::eek:
Maybe passive is better suited for me then... A couple questions- how are the xovers on the ctx comps, and what about the time alignment on the comps? You can't tune them individually if you're running passive, can you? I'm going to be putting the tweeters either in the stock sail locations or off axis on the A-beams facing eachother. Given the distance between the tweeters and mids, I was hoping to be able to time align them each individually, but I also don't want to spend the next 3 years tuning them either! What to do!!!!:worried::worried:
 

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3 years... Wow!!!:eek::eek:
Maybe passive is better suited for me then...
Well, in my defense, I like playing. It isn't that i'm not happy with it. I just always try to improve it. Sometimes I do, sometimes I don't.

A couple questions- how are the xovers on the ctx comps, and what about the time alignment on the comps? You can't tune them individually if you're running passive, can you? I'm going to be putting the tweeters either in the stock sail locations or off axis on the A-beams facing eachother. Given the distance between the tweeters and mids, I was hoping to be able to time align them each individually, but I also don't want to spend the next 3 years tuning them either! What to do!!!!:worried::worried:
I didn't mean to throw you off.:) I think most people who run active like tweaking. That's really all I meant.

No you can not t/a the tweeters individually if you use passive. However, most comp sets take that into account(kind of). They are able to manufacture a comp set that sounds good without t/a. Maybe not perfect but it's impressive considering they don't know anything about the final mounting locations when they designed it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well, you could use the low section for both the rear speakers and the sub.(use the rca pass thru to connect into one and then out to the other) You would have to use the sub amp crossover though.
Would I still be able to tune the sub and the rear speakers individually, or would they be both paired to the same frequency?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
However, most comp sets take that into account(kind of). They are able to manufacture a comp set that sounds good without t/a. Maybe not perfect but it's impressive considering they don't know anything about the final mounting locations when they designed it.
Do you think that going through the process of tuning them individually would be overkill for a pair of ctx's? I mean they're not hat's or hertz or super high quality speakers.. Stick with the passive for now?
 

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Would I still be able to tune the sub and the rear speakers individually, or would they be both paired to the same frequency?
You wouldn't be able to tune from the hu. You would run a fullrange signal to the rear speaker amp and to the sub amp. Then use the sub amps built in xo.
 

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Do you think that going through the process of tuning them individually would be overkill for a pair of ctx's? I mean they're not hat's or hertz or super high quality speakers.. Stick with the passive for now?
Think about it this way. There was a lot of thought put into the xo that came with that set. They designed that xo to work with those particular speakers. Besides t/a, i'd say those speakers are fairly well optimized. The only way to get an active 2way+ sub out of your current setup is to ditch the rear speakers. I'd say try passive for now. It's not hard to change things later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Think about it this way. There was a lot of thought put into the xo that came with that set. They designed that xo to work with those particular speakers. Besides t/a, i'd say those speakers are fairly well optimized. The only way to get an active 2way+ sub out of your current setup is to ditch the rear speakers. I'd say try passive for now. It's not hard to change things later.
This all helps me a ton, thank you very much for your knowledge and time! :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
Just a few more questions- I got a reply on this subject, i think in another forum, and i have no idea what they meant, or if what they said was even true...

here:
"I'm not an expert, but I think it'd also be a good idea to have each amp individually fused. The amount of current that is "safe" for the three amps together may be too much if drawn by a single amp and in your current scheme there is no protection against such a scenario."

soooo... each amp individually fused? newbie language please?
amount of current that is safe for three amps together may be too much if drawn by a single amp?
what protection against what scenario?
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I feel like this person was being overly vague, can you maybe explain what this person was saying?
 

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This all helps me a ton, thank you very much for your knowledge and time! :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
Just a few more questions- I got a reply on this subject, i think in another forum, and i have no idea what they meant, or if what they said was even true...

here:
"I'm not an expert, but I think it'd also be a good idea to have each amp individually fused. The amount of current that is "safe" for the three amps together may be too much if drawn by a single amp and in your current scheme there is no protection against such a scenario."

soooo... each amp individually fused? newbie language please?
amount of current that is safe for three amps together may be too much if drawn by a single amp?
what protection against what scenario?
-------------
I feel like this person was being overly vague, can you maybe explain what this person was saying?
No prob. Means what it says. Use this as reference:


Say you have 3 amps, each with fuse ratings of 30 amps. So 90 amps total. What he is suggesting is that you use a main fuse, and then secondary fuses for each amp. So that would be a 90 amp fuse less than a foot from your battery, run that back to a dist block and then use a 30 amp fuse for each amp. I'm just using these numbers to simplify. Find out the recommended fuse size for each amp and add that up. This will be the minimum size of the main fuse. Make sure your main power cable is rated for this number.
 

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They made it for power but your ground must be at least as large as your power or you'll choke the current flow. Voltage flows pos to neg but current flows neg to pos.
 
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