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Well this is a sticky if I've ever seen one!
Agreed!

sub'd for my noob self. thanks so much for this!
Subbed for future reference
Had a binge watching session this evening, great info! Definitely gave me some ideas to try.

Curious if you will upload the CD with 31 band pink noise you mentioned in the last vid. Would be great! :)
Search for Kyle in here and you'll see how many times I refer folks to Kyle's vid series. It literally got me up and running actually putting the knowledge to use and learning so much more by actually DOING the tuning finally.. Putting the information gained from guys like Erin, Kyle, Chad, others to good use.

The vids prove one thing to me. There's no substitute for actually seeing it being done. You can tell a guy all day long how to build a sub box, or smoke a rack of ribs, but a 10 minute video is absolute king of the hill.. Especially a whole series of them.

A video is worth a thousand threads. :)

.. In short. Thank you from this newb who knows enough to be dangerous but a helluva lot more after watching these vids (over... And over)!
 

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I found your videos on Utube before this here. I think they are very informative, Thank you for sharing. I do have to do a lot of sifting and jumping around for a newb like me. I look forward to seeing a step by step of first things first, " ...After you have all your gear in....etc". Do this, then this, then this, and that.

Something I can follow would be a blessing. None the less this is surely something to add in to other videos to get me started from top to bottom.
Some are doing it while in the car, others NOT in the car...etc.
Also, I have seen people take RTA readings with the zero axis head on narrow angle of the mic, and I seen your ear to ear 90 degree version, and then yet I have heard to take readings of the tweeters in dash from opposite sides of the car for better results.

(left tweeter, right passenger window/right tweeter, driver window). etc...

Does it make a difference? Why?, and how? and is there a measurable better method?
 

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kyle, wheres the video on how to tune a for a 2 seat car :D
 

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Just take half of what he said into consideration for a 2 seater
 

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I found your videos on Utube before this here. I think they are very informative, Thank you for sharing. I do have to do a lot of sifting and jumping around for a newb like me. I look forward to seeing a step by step of first things first, " ...After you have all your gear in....etc". Do this, then this, then this, and that.

Something I can follow would be a blessing. None the less this is surely something to add in to other videos to get me started from top to bottom.
Some are doing it while in the car, others NOT in the car...etc.
Also, I have seen people take RTA readings with the zero axis head on narrow angle of the mic, and I seen your ear to ear 90 degree version, and then yet I have heard to take readings of the tweeters in dash from opposite sides of the car for better results.

(left tweeter, right passenger window/right tweeter, driver window). etc...

Does it make a difference? Why?, and how? and is there a measurable better method?
I'll try to answer..

1) To apply it, watch them in series as they're numbered in order and perform them the same, from crossovers through levels and TA through into individual driver EQ etc etc. These methods are just the method Kyle shows and as he states, there are many methods and orders of events, none really wrong. It's what works for you. The measurements from the mic and your two organic mics (ears) will let you know.

2) There are a gazillion different methods from measuring outside the car with mic in the headrest, etc etc.. 90 off-axis or point on-axis with the mic. Erin has a vid showing this as a demonstration on taking RTA noise measurements outside the car. Don't sweat the small stuff. If using 90 degrees, try to have a mic with 90 degree calibration file loaded in REW. Measuring inside the car is just easier and takes into account your actual person as part of the "room" which will have an acoustic affect on response.

3) This method is also for a single seat tune, thus he is measuring the averages around one noggin, driver seat. So the mic moving during the averages are done around that noggin. So as thus, it'd make no sense for measurements with mic in any other spots.. be it left or right tweet, mid etc. Measure at your head if tuning to sound perfect at your head.

... In fact, I'd bet, for two-seat tune, if I had to guess, you'd take your measurements head height right between the two head positions for an equal average tune at both head locations. There might be other factors there uniquely measured at each head location, but that might be one method for 2-seat tune.


By the way.. A while back I put all these in a playlist for my own benefit and quick referal. I just found out you can manually order them so I put them in order from top/down 1-12. Starting at the top.. And a 1.. and a 2.. :)

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL8DsRfMp9q4az_gei9C27aRyUIUvMIMO0
 

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do you think I was serious ? :)

Thanks so much for that Babs....I'll work through them next tune sitting.

Maybe the answer is to have Tune parties. That way we have an exuse to put all this time in. And with drinks all things start to sound better. :)
 

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EXCELENT! Thank you.
 

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do you think I was serious ? :)

Thanks so much for that Babs....I'll work through them next tune sitting.

Maybe the answer is to have Tune parties. That way we have an exuse to put all this time in. And with drinks all things start to sound better. :)
cant really tell on the internet lol
 

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look for the light humor, not the dark truth.
 

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question, if anyone can answer...

In the video when RTA'ing the individual driver, he made note that the driver was still producing harmonics outside of the crossover slope...for instance, the midbass was lowpass crossed at 300HZ @ 24db LR (if I recall correctly) but during measurement he was still picking up random sound in the 1khz-2khz range...

Observing his EQ graph, everything outside the crossover slope was left at 0 db.

Would it not benefit to drop the frequencies outside the crossover ranges to lowest possible level, -12db or whatever your DSP allows? This way those frequencies have less chance to even come into play?

Or is a harmonic just unavoidable sometimes?
 

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He may have meant to say the top end freq of the mid bass is 300 and lower. Likely his mid picks up from 300 to 2000 or so. Just guessing verbiage, I forgot if he had a 3way or not ?:)
 

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He may have meant to say the top end freq of the mid bass is 300 and lower. Likely his mid picks up from 300 to 2000 or so. Just guessing verbiage, I forgot if he had a 3way or not ?:)
correct, but hes measuring the driver by itself. He indicates that the crossover shows rolloff but a ways higher up in freq there is still some residual response.

I will have to go back a check out the spot im referring to.
 

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thats how crossovers and their slopes work. crossovers arent a dead stop. theyre a gradual roll off. and no it wouldnt benefit by cutting the eq after the crossover. you would just use a steeper slope. but, various slopes are used to help the drivers blend into each other
 

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Yes, from what I can see happening I would agree with the cat above.

The freq tapers after the point and the dB's help dictate how sharply. Q I have yet to figure out how and when to use, but I think I read someone say it is more for sub/bass. So if you need freq cut, maybe start much sooner or later, but that would be very experimental as this is just to see if it stops, not if it sounds good :)
 

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Ok went back and rewatched Vid 8 about 10 minute mark...left midbass

He ends up dropping the crossover to like 150hz, but stil has flat response to like 300-400 then rolls off and the a slight bump at 550hz.

Mentions cabin gain affecting this region, so I guess I can see why the crossover isnt the end all be all like Skizer mentioned (and of course I know frequency doesnt fall off a cliff, rather rolls off depending on the crossover type).

I was simply wondering if lowering the EQ band outside the crossover range would effectively aid the crossover in any way. I mean, could it not hurt to set a midbass 2khz to -12db than to keep at 0 db? I know the crossover should never let the midbass w/ 200hz crossover really even see 2khz signal, but would it hurt to do it this way in conjunction with a crossover?

Or is it just pointless and so I should forget such a wacky idea? Just trying to learn. :)
 

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Ok went back and rewatched Vid 8 about 10 minute mark...left midbass

He ends up dropping the crossover to like 150hz, but stil has flat response to like 300-400 then rolls off and the a slight bump at 550hz.

Mentions cabin gain affecting this region, so I guess I can see why the crossover isnt the end all be all like Skizer mentioned (and of course I know frequency doesnt fall off a cliff, rather rolls off depending on the crossover type).

I was simply wondering if lowering the EQ outside the crossover range would effectively aid the crossover in any way. I mean, could it not hurt to set a midbass 2khz to -12db than to keep at 0 db? I know the crossover should never let the midbass really even see 2khz signal, but would it hurt to do it this way in conjunction with a crossover?

Or is it just pointless and so I should forget such a wacky idea? Just trying to learn. :)
pointless. you would just use a steeper slope
 
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