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Discussion Starter #41
then forget about oranges lol
blue is similar to blue/white, but applies only on the AM/FM source, use the blue/white
There is no blue/white wire on the HU. It's just the Blue. According to the head unit wiring diagram, the blue can connect to an amp or power antenna, or insulate if not used.

The harness does not have blue/white wire either. Just the blue. So logically I just soldered the blue wires together anyway, even though I don't have a powered antenna.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
I just got an idea. What if one of the speaker wires is exposed and grounding to the chassis? If one of the speaker wires is grounding, would that cause all 4 speakers not to play sound?

I will probably have to check the rear 2 speakers to see if there is any exposed wire because the front 2 have been upgraded and I used electrical tape. Would it worked to just disconnect the rear speakers to the harness?
 

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I think your remote amp power on is the problem. Jump the 12V+ from your amp to the REM on your amp and it should play. If it does, just run a new wire from the REM on your amp to the blue on your HU, bypass the harness.

Or if you wanted to, you could turn your DMM to the lowest Ohms setting (with audible tone if you have that option) and connect one probe to a wire long enough to reach your amp. Connect that wire to the REM wire. Then back in the car, use the other probe to poke the wires in the harness you aren't sure about. When you get a reading or a tone, that's your remote wire. Connect the blue HU wire to that wire on the harness.
 

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there is no amp on this car, which is why its so mind boggling :)
I'm sorry, I said amp but meant the radio controller unit (which does have an amp in it, just a small HU type of amp). If you're absolutely certain that your HU in your dash isn't just a controller for the actual head unit processor in the rear of the vehicle somewhere, then I would say that you have a shorted speaker wire like the other guy said.

In that case, you'll want to connect your ohmmeter to a chassis ground and then probe the speaker wires. If you get connectivity, you're probing a wire that is grounded out somewhere, replace it. But I still recommend upgrading all speaker wires if you can find the time.

EDIT: Since OP's HU appears to have an antenna plugged into it, then that would mean that he doesn't have a RCU with the radio processor in the rear. So try to find a grounded speaker wire as described above.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Went to the garage storage and dug out my old arc audio fd4150 amp and a pair of 8" resonant engineering subs from way back.

Just ordered the speaker wire from monoprice.

So my next move is to use channels 1+2 for front speakers and bridge channels 3+4 low pass filter to the 8" subwoofer.

More work, yes, but will be a better end result. It has been several years since installing car audio so it is likely I will start another thread.

I appreciate all the feedback and ideas that inspired me to take it to the next level.
 

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I thought your HU wasn't putting out any sound though? Did you ohm out your chassis to your speaker wires on the harness to see if a wire was grounded? Your plan to use the HU to power mids and highs may not work if there's something wrong with the HU, and not with a shorted speaker wire. It's good that you're going to run new wire, but you should test anyway to rule out HU issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
I thought your HU wasn't putting out any sound though? Did you ohm out your chassis to your speaker wires on the harness to see if a wire was grounded? Your plan to use the HU to power mids and highs may not work if there's something wrong with the HU, and not with a shorted speaker wire. It's good that you're going to run new wire, but you should test anyway to rule out HU issues.
My digital multimeter was lent out to a friend. I will test it out when I get it back. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Used my multi-meter and tested all 4 speakers. Got 4 ohms continuity on all speakers. I tested at the point of the wire harness. Looks like all wires are a-ok. Sigh.
 

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Used my multi-meter and tested all 4 speakers. Got 4 ohms continuity on all speakers. I tested at the point of the wire harness. Looks like all wires are a-ok. Sigh.
It sounds like you tested from speaker positive to speaker negative though, instead of speaker positive to chassis ground. Disconnect your battery negative cable. Test from each speaker positive on the harness to a nearby chassis ground. You should not get any continuity whatsoever. Then, while you're at it, test continuity from all your speaker negatives to the chassis ground, you should get a very low ohm rating.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
It sounds like you tested from speaker positive to speaker negative though, instead of speaker positive to chassis ground. Disconnect your battery negative cable. Test from each speaker positive on the harness to a nearby chassis ground. You should not get any continuity whatsoever. Then, while you're at it, test continuity from all your speaker negatives to the chassis ground, you should get a very low ohm rating.

Yes, I tested the positive to positive speaker wire and negative to negative speaker wire to make sure they were all connected.

So I should test positive to positive speaker wire and negative to the chassis ground to get no continuity?

And then test negative to negative speaker wire and positive to the chassis ground for a low ohm rating?
 

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Yes, I tested the positive to positive speaker wire and negative to negative speaker wire to make sure they were all connected.

So I should test positive to positive speaker wire and negative to the chassis ground to get no continuity?

And then test negative to negative speaker wire and positive to the chassis ground for a low ohm rating?
That's correct. When testing continuity, you can switch the probes so positive and negative probe used on which end makes no difference, that's continuity testing only though (resistance, ohms, etc..).

Testing from each speaker positive to the chassis ground will tell you, if you find any connectivity, that you have a speaker wire grounding out. To be extra thorough, try this with the doors open and then again with the doors closed. If you have a short that varies depending on if the door is open or not, you know exactly where the short will be.

And testing each speaker ground for coninuity to the chassis ground will determine if they're grounded well enough.
 
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