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Once you get a DSP and get the install buttoned up it is relatively easy to tame below 30Hz with filters and EQ - too much is better than not enough... and music is WAY different than test tones.
 
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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
If you decide to, you should be able to use drywall butterfly fasteners with a 1 1/2 - 2"OD washer behind the bolt head to hold up the horse mats for deadening.
You might have to add more ribs to the inside roof so you can maintain a good support for the mat, but those should work

Thanks!

I was looking around at tractor supply as a matter of fact and i found that " cattle panels" are made of pretty thick steel and if i cut one up into sections i could spot weld them to the roof in specific areas to create tension which i would assume would lead to a much more solid roof kind of like a webbing support. ESPECIALLY if you weld one side then push in with everything you have to create tension in the middle....then weld the other side in to hold that tension, then of course to keep it from slapping in the middle spot weld the middle also.

the horse mats, i dunno i could possibly do that on the floor and i may just take your idea up on the roof. But , with proper upward pressure im finding that the roof isnt so noisy so ill probably weld in the panel pieces and go from there on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Once you get a DSP and get the install buttoned up it is relatively easy to tame below 30Hz with filters and EQ - too much is better than not enough... and music is WAY different than test tones.
i like the way you think! :ROFLMAO: what more would i expect of YOU than great ideas though.

I listened and listened and had friends listen with all speakers in place -until i decided to keep the current build plan in place however we did have to move the wall back give or take 6" for comfortable leg room. The cancellations at 50hz didnt seem so bad even with windows up after that and changing the phase on the subs to 180* out so with as much work as i had put in.....i figured lets just finish this and move on!

Next vehicle i do will be true IB through the floor but so much has gone into this and i needed a partition wall so again..left it alone kindaish.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Things are progressing more slowly than anticipated, ive been swamped with work lately. I started on the amp rack this weekend after situating my mid bass box and subwoofer baffle where it needed to go permanently.

I did not get to finish the amp rack in time so i never took any photos.

Maybe ill go snap a few of " in progress" photos before leaving for work today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 · (Edited)
The DSP will stand up in front of and between the two zapco amps.

Once the cover goes on all you will see would be the two zapco amps and dsp, lighting etc. but still, once the cover is off the wiring must be "pretty" in my mind.....but it will be a chore. trying to keep power cables from crossing paths with signal cables in this tiny amp rack is a B****!

The amps dont look centered and thats because of the angle of the picture. They are trust me im anal about spatial differences and being tidy even though from looking through those 18" holes you can see stuff just all over the place in the back of the van.....thats because im ocd and if its not near perfect i just give up and start letting stuff lay where it lands lol. It will be neat once im finished which will help with my efficiency at work as crazy as that sounds...thats just me. Do the dirty, ugly work first then once everything is right my mental state becomes right. :ROFLMAO:
Hood Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior Audio equipment

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Hood Crankset Vehicle brake
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 · (Edited)
The only thing that fell into place with the wiring so far is the speaker outputs for the subwoofers (and yes thats 8 guage, i had a ton of it laying around and it looked good so i went with it but obviously i dont think its AT ALL necessary)

To me the subwoofer amp output wires have a nice curve shape to them. Im currently working the rest testing different ways of cable management. I have a thing for it being neat( i was in communications for several years and i wasnt one of the hacks thatll let a rack go wild, id be in there combing and cleaning up the wires into ordered bunches on my downtime just for the hell of it)

The rest will be figured out trial and error.

Its damn hard to get a nice curve on a piece of short 0 awg!
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 · (Edited)
Ok got to dress this wiring up a bit.

Ordered some ferrule type terminals for all power and grounds with red and black heat shrink to take care of that problem with the sharp turn in the 1/0 ground hopefully, because no matter what you do you have an ugly connection with such a sharp bend, who knows i may be able to orient the knuconceptz distrubution blocks a little different and cure what ales me , but anyway went ahead and kept on with that finished look with ferrules and a crimper for all the smaller wiring with proper size red and black heat shrink of course oh and a crimper tool. I even went with blue ferrules/heat shrink for the remote turn on wires :ROFLMAO: oh and dont forget a relay for those while were on the subject!

also found some clips to hold all my wire sizes, i really prefer flexclips like i used to use in telecom and they come in all the perfect sizes for this , but i couldnt remember all the part numbers so i just went to a local store and bought padded and plastic clips for the job.

Ill probably throw some techflex on some of it also to help hide the bunching up of wires because thats probably going to be the only way to make it look decent in a cramped space. problem is i didnt exactly know what size to order and my work van is in the shop for what seems to be routine maintenance at this point. (put lots of miles on it, a new engine could basically be routine maintenance these days)

after all of this is complete and the baffle is complete , itll all come out when im satisfied and then it goes to body work. .....then covering it all or paint not sure yet.(includes the underseat midbass enclosure cause shes FUGLY but functional)

ready to get this fab work done so i can move on to the next phase- staging the mid range/tweeter to its final positioning , finish up their pods and building the enclosure for the dash mounted midbass which may be the most fun of the entire project! Those little guys will either be firing right at the chest, or straight into the windshield to give a horn effect.....remember this midbass setup is supposed to keep up with 2 18s lol i need every bit of help i can get with that.
 

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:LOL::ROFLMAO::LOL::ROFLMAO:
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
No updates
“Bessie” is in the shop and had to stay over the weekend which really put a damper on my plans.
At some point this week or weekend I will get back to partition wall fabrication and wiring up/fabricating the amp rack hopefully!
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
I think we found out what AILS you right there ... sorry, I couldn't resist. 🤣
i noticed somewhere in this thread i believe you said ported would take more power to get moving, something to the effect of 3000 watts wow, i will only have the 1500 watts at 2 ohms.

Im wondering if i turn this into a ported box, would the output actually go down because of the "box" and the need for more juice, and im kind of thinking yes but no because of the added +3ish db so i need expert advice on this one sir. im on the fence.

IF I GO PORTED, it will be about 20 cubic ft after displacement of subs, bracing etc, and tuned around 28hz maybe a little lower because i already get a nasty bump at 40hz and that tuning would have a hump at 35 that i probably dont need.
 

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20ft3 = BP6P or TH.
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
20ft3 = BP6P or TH.
im not exactly sure what this means.
Band pass maybe 6th order I’m guessing

nah doing ported, bad experiences with bandpass aside from the accidental one I created already here it’s pretty good but of course as always with a bandpass it has limited frequency response.
 

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i noticed somewhere in this thread i believe you said ported would take more power to get moving, something to the effect of 3000 watts wow, i will only have the 1500 watts at 2 ohms.

Im wondering if i turn this into a ported box, would the output actually go down because of the "box" and the need for more juice, and im kind of thinking yes but no because of the added +3ish db so i need expert advice on this one sir. im on the fence.

IF I GO PORTED, it will be about 20 cubic ft after displacement of subs, bracing etc, and tuned around 28hz maybe a little lower because i already get a nasty bump at 40hz and that tuning would have a hump at 35 that i probably dont need.
TH is Tapped Horn BTW but the HT18v3 is not really a Compression Style Sub and the last thing you need is to try and start building one of those...

Anyway, Ported loses output vs IB since the box provides cone control down to the tuning frequency and then you lose all the output below tuning cause the cone unloads from the enclosure and moves without making hardly any sound which means you have to run a 20Hz HP Filter to keep from damaging the Sub. So you gain output due to the porting down to where the IB slope comes in and then the IB has more output below that frequency. This is what that looks like without cabin gain:
Colorfulness Rectangle Slope Font Screenshot


Then what happens with cabin gain:
Rectangle Slope Font Plot Line


So you get this huge peak right in the "meat" of bass guitar and kick drum but without any of the supporting sub-harmonics and virtually none of the synthesized bass in the lower 20s or teens. More down to tuning and then nothing after about 1/2 octave below tuning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
It was a nice thought , but i was thinking last night i kinda just wanna stick with the setup as is now anyway. Why complicate things.
And this graph just put the final nail in that coffin lol

That was the bad part of not being able to touch this project for around 2 weeks, coming up with "better" ideas from all the extra time i had to think and rethink.

Thanks ! thinks ! "word play on the former ales i had":)
TH is Tapped Horn BTW but the HT18v3 is not really a Compression Style Sub and the last thing you need is to try and start building one of those...

Anyway, Ported loses output vs IB since the box provides cone control down to the tuning frequency and then you lose all the output below tuning cause the cone unloads from the enclosure and moves without making hardly any sound which means you have to run a 20Hz HP Filter to keep from damaging the Sub. So you gain output due to the porting down to where the IB slope comes in and then the IB has more output below that frequency. This is what that looks like without cabin gain:
View attachment 342512

Then what happens with cabin gain:
View attachment 342513

So you get this huge peak right in the "meat" of bass guitar and kick drum but without any of the supporting sub-harmonics and virtually none of the synthesized bass in the lower 20s or teens. More down to tuning and then nothing after about 1/2 octave below tuning.
 
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