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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello.

After having debated back and forth on running my new tweeters off my headunit to gain a biampable option vs. running my new component set passive with a fixed L-Pad, I think I have settled on seeking to go active to have the freedom to time align my tweeters to my mids and be able to attenuate them as I feel like it.

The problem is that my HU (Alpine CDA-117) only gives a single HPF for the mids and highs, and that's it. I have to set my LPF with my sub amp. The HU has Time Correction, which is great, but the lack of active crossovers keeps my options limited to running my components through passive crossovers.

I just received a set of Massive CK6V yesterday, and their passives look great, but I don't like that I can't attenuate the tweeters below -3 dbs or time align them to the mids, as I plan to install the tweeters on my sail panels mostly on axis for a nice sound stage. I would love to delay them so as to push the soundstage back on the hood or so.

So, what is a good active crossover to buy? I don't need anything like a MS-8. I don't care about auto tune, time alignment, or possibly even EQ (but I'll take that if it's better than the 117's PEQ). I just want basic Xover and slope options to create my ideal soundstage with this new Massive set.

Thank you diyma.
 

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You're killing me. Install the CK6Vs normally. If you really are bothered by the tweeters try the EQ adjustments after trying the level adjustment on the crossovers. I would not start with the tweeters at -3. Try them at 0 first so you have a reference point that you can adjust lower from. BEFORE running them actively, which not only requires the appropriate crossovers but also 2 extra amplifier channels, try repositioning the tweeters.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You're killing me. Install the CK6Vs normally. If you really are bothered by the tweeters try the EQ adjustments after trying the level adjustment on the crossovers. I would not start with the tweeters at -3. Try them at 0 first so you have a reference point that you can adjust lower from. BEFORE running them actively, which not only requires the appropriate crossovers but also 2 extra amplifier channels, try repositioning the tweeters.
I realize I've posted too many threads on this. I'm just trying to evaluate my available options. My free time is nonexistent, and I want to nail the winning combo before I even peel the door panels, if possible. I know that I would LOVE some T/A between the mids and tweets for soundstage reasons, and the attenuation options take a backseat to the importance of the T/A. I really would rather not run these braxially. I'm pretty set on my tweeters being aimed as close to on axis as the supplied angle tweeter cups will allow.

And, if I go active, I have a super old school (~1991) Coustic AMP 102 amp for the tweeters, which will put out 25 x 2 watts MAX (so maybe 12-16 watts RMS x 2). I would then buy a small Boston GTA amp later to put in its place - to match my other GTA amps.

Thanks for your advice. Running traditionally passive is definitely still on the table.
 

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Coustic XM6 maybe?

Also, many PPI amplifiers amplifiers have HP and LP crossovers going up to 4-4.5KHz with a 12dB slope. The PPI Phantom has it, and PPI Power Class has this too. This is not the most flexible active crossover, but good enough for a lot of speakers.

By the way, won't you lose the ability to run rear fill with a 2-way active front stage? With two stereo channels driving the front speakers, and the other two driving subwoofer, it seems like you have run out of channels.. This is the problem I have now. The imaging is very nice but sound is too sterile. It's hard to escape the feeling that you're listening to a 'radio'. I could connect the subwoofer RCA cables to a 4-channel amplifier with two of the channels driving rear speakers and the other two driving the subwoofer, but that would mean that subwoofer level control on the stereo would also change the volume of the rear speakers.. that's probably not a too bad thing, but also I won't be able to time delay the rear speaker signal without affecting the subwoofer. I am a fan of time delayed and band passed rear fill.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Coustic XM6 maybe?

Also, many PPI amplifiers amplifiers have HP and LP crossovers going up to 4-4.5KHz with a 12dB slope. The PPI Phantom has it, and PPI Power Class has this too. This is not the most flexible active crossover, but good enough for a lot of speakers.

By the way, won't you lose the ability to run rear fill with a 2-way active front stage? With two stereo channels driving the front speakers, and the other two driving subwoofer, it seems like you have run out of channels.. This is the problem I have now. The imaging is very nice but sound is too sterile. It's hard to escape the feeling that you're listening to a 'radio'. I could connect the subwoofer RCA cables to a 4-channel amplifier with two of the channels driving rear speakers and the other two driving the subwoofer, but that would mean that subwoofer level control on the stereo would also change the volume of the rear speakers.. that's probably not a too bad thing, but also I won't be able to time delay the rear speaker signal without affecting the subwoofer. I am a fan of time delayed and band passed rear fill.

I always appreciate your input, ZAKOH!

I currently have a Boston GTA-1000m taking care of the bass, and a GTA-704 and a set of Massive CK6V sitting in the house waiting for me to get my plans straight (I have head unit power on factory components right now).

If I did go active, I have a pissy little Coustic amp from the old school to hold me over on the tweets for now, as I plan to put the whole 4 channel to just the mids, unless I go passive.

If it weren't for me having already bought amps, I would jump all over those PPI Power series amps! I'm kinda in a toss up about rear fill. I go back and forth on the fader, but my rears are some Walmart Xplod coaxials lol, so no big loss if I abandon them.

I've been eyeballing this little guy on Sonicelectronix:

Cache CEX 2/3 Way Crossover with 8V RMS and 12dB Bass Boost

It does bandpass, but only with 12 dbs slopes. I like its simplicity though.
 

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Just buy the PXA-H100. It's only 150 bucks new and will allow you to control everything from your head unit.
Or find something like a used Coustic XM6. I kept mine around just in case I decided to upgrade to a double-din, since most of the higher end DD heads have time alignment.

Of course what you mentioned was plan B because I would rather have a DD that allows me to set everything from the driver's seat, and the Alpine + Imprint would allow me to do that at a fairly low cost compared to other solutions. I guess I am getting lazy in my old age because I don't want to sit in the driver's seat, go to the trunk to make an adjustment, go back to the driver's seat, then back to the trunk to adjust, over and over again.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hey, I'm liking the idea of an Imprint which is made for my HU. Is that one the most current model? I ask because the one listed on Sonicelectronix didn't list my HU on its compatability list.

Edit: Also, would I have the option to manually tune it? I don't want it to tune for me.
 

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Pretty sure the H100 is the only imprint unit there is. Crutchfield shows it as compatible, and there are reviews from people saying that they are using it with your HU. It has a manual mode that allows you to adjust EQ/TA/Crossover. Allows high pass, Band Pass, and Low Pass for a 3 way set up. I'm assuming it has separate left right EQ like the 9887 does too.
 

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According to the product page, the PXA-H100 is available for the CDA-117. It should allow you to manually tune like I do with my CDA-9887 OR purchase the additional microphone and software for auto-tuning.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Excellent Dave & Chris!

The reviews seem to be Meh concerning its response resulting from using auto tune, but I don't plan to ever do that. I just want slopes/Xover points really. I also read somewhere that the output voltage is less than 4V, which would suck.

Question:

Will the Imprint defeat my T/A already set on my HU?
 

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Excellent Dave & Chris!

The reviews seem to be Meh concerning its response resulting from using auto tune, but I don't plan to ever do that. I just want slopes/Xover points really. I also read somewhere that the output voltage is less than 4V, which would suck.

Question:

Will the Imprint defeat my T/A already set on my HU?

That's pretty much what the concensus has been, a great tool if you're not going to be relying on the audyssy auto calibration.

Don't worry about having less than a 4v preamp output. That is NOT a big deal, your head unit now doesn't put out 4v all the time either. Whatever you're actually getting out of it should be more than adequate to drive pretty much any amplifier.

I don't know if your existing T/A will be defeated or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I missed the need for TA. Helix p dsp then?
I plan to utilize my T/A on the HU. I'll probably leave at least the mids T/Aed where they are now in relation to the sub.

I have determined that it may be hard to fit 3 amps and a processor on my available space for a new amp rack build behind the rear seats (I'm not willing to fiberglass rear quarter panels for gear).
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well, I think I decided to go passive with my components so as to keep my T/Aed rear fill. I try and try to like a front stage only, but I always come back to a dominant front stage (with an audible ambience in the rear) configuration.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Forgive me for talking to myself, but it helps me to log my ideas.

I'm going with a (quasi-active/HU powered rear fill/L-Pad-like tweeter attenuation control) setup by getting this crossover:

Audio Savings | POWERBASS XEX-23 2 OR 3 WAY ELECTRONIC CAR CROSSOVER

Then splitting the front signal to its front and rear controls, and keeping my T/Aed rear fill running off the HU. I have a super old-school Coustic AMP 102 (25 watts MAX x 2) from around 1991 to run the tweeters.

The only downside whatsoever is the loss of T/A on the components, but I wouldn't have that with passives anyway. And this way I get control over Xover points and line driver attenuation.

For $60, my problems will be solved.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So I cancelled my order for that Xover. It doesn't do all that I wanted it to do. You can't run bandpass with both front and rear RCAs hooked up. It only works by internally splitting the front signal. That eliminates the ability to do full active with T/A if I were to feel like it, so screw this unit for now.

Passive with rear fill is where I'm at now.

I'll post a review of the Massives soon after I get them hooked up.

Please delete this pointless thread.
 
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