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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So after all the research I've been doing, I've narrowed my sub choices down to Morel Ultimo SC, Focal 33 KX, or two Focal Polyglass 33 V2s. These will be run off the Mosconi AS 200.4 fed from a 80PRS.

My dilemma. I used to have a triple W7 JL audio box back in 2000. That was nice then but today that would be waaaaaay to much boom and thump for me. I want bass that is impactful, yet remains clear and does not overpower my Focal KRX2s. In fact, I want the bass to blend well with the mids.

I've read sooooo much about the Morel, the Esotar, and others but many people also say these subs don't have much punch. The last thing I want to do is shell out the type of money these quality sub's demand and then be underwhelmed by its lack of impact.

The only sub I've been able to demo is the Focal Polyglass and it sounded great on the sound board; I have no idea what it would sound like in my car.

Does the Ultimo have a bit of "knock?" Will it play R&B, dubstep, and Hip Hop well? (I'm talking real dubstep like Mala, not that skrillex fratstep crap lol). I do listen to jazz and lounge music a LOT but I also do listen to those other genres I mention. So while I do absolutely want excellent sound quality from a sub, I also want a little impact.

Please list your suggestions, whether one or two subs will suffice, what size, and some ballpark prices for them. Thank you!!!
 

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I have an SC122 and it plays low and loud. If I face it towards the rear of the trunk, I can feel my hair move (not like in the youtube videos. It's not that kinda sub). Facing forward, it still pounds my back/chest and the sq is danged near perfect. I play stoner metal mostly but also the odd bit of old rap and it handles it very well. The rumble from War and Peace comes close to being a brown note with the Morel. Fs is 23hz so with the right box, you won't have trouble reaching any low notes. Got mine for $300 "new" off ebay. Guy bought it for an SQ install then lost his licence so it was never used.
 

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The esotar has punch. it's not always about the sub but the enclosure and tuning that give it punch. I ran a $120 FI X12 sub and it had plenty of punch AND sq. The image dynamics subs can give you best of both worlds too as well as the ARC Black which to me will slap your face for you when you want.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I wonder how the IDQ 12 2 ohm sub stacks up to the Morel Ultimo SC 12 and the Focal Polyglass V2s?

They are looking more interesting the more I read up on them. As far as enclosures go, I will pay someone to help me build the proper enclosure for whichever sub I get. In the future, I want to switch to infinite baffle though. I'd do that now but I don't know how and I can't imagine it being cheap to for a shop to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
A single W7 would be outstanding.
I like JL Audio, don't get me wrong. Its just that they are too "boomy" for me. That's too much SPL for what I'm looking for. I assume the W7 has much more punch than a Morel Ultimo SC and an IDQ 12?
 

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In the system im building now i was going to do 2 12w7s and starting doing some research. I ended up with 2 psi audio platform2 subs w/hd option. They were about half the cost and when I plot them in WinISD and compare to the w7 its almost identical. Im putting them in a 4.3cu/ft ported box tuned to 29.x hz




Takes up w good deal of trunk space in my taurus :)

Sent from my HTC One
 

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Do you want to have a sealed or ported box. I think that the polyglass are supposed to be reallyg ood sq but iirc they are designed for a ported box.
 

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Want it to blend? Then sealed or IB is the easiest especially with smaller midbass. So your plan should work well.

Sq? You want to strt with a low distortion motor. Something with good inductance control. You also want a sub with decent linear Xmax so that the low end when you turn it up stays linear when it matters.

Spl? Now since you are going sealed/IB, you want Xmax and cone area.

My opinion is for what you are asking for, the W7 is the only choice in the subs that have been listed. At least they have known engineering due hind them. You are not paying for a name and marketing. The W7 has a low distortion motor, great inductance control and close to double the Xmax or more than the subs listed. It works IB in a car.

Just remember level matching is imperative. And most smaller midbass drivers have an early "I can't keep up" point with subs. So a higher crossover point may have to be used. The high roll off of sealed/IB keeps the low bass from overwhelming the midbass as easy. You can often help your midbass by raising the crossover on the subs as well. Let the headunits tune functionality take it from there.
 

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Exactly. Level matching is VERY important with the W7s. Also, because their bottom-octave output is so good, people think they're boomy when it's really just very extended output.

In a ported enclosure there are subs that will give you more output. Sealed, and with enough room, I'll take a W7 over almost anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Want it to blend? Then sealed or IB is the easiest especially with smaller midbass. So your plan should work well.

Sq? You want to strt with a low distortion motor. Something with good inductance control. You also want a sub with decent linear Xmax so that the low end when you turn it up stays linear when it matters.

Spl? Now since you are going sealed/IB, you want Xmax and cone area.

My opinion is for what you are asking for, the W7 is the only choice in the subs that have been listed. At least they have known engineering due hind them. You are not paying for a name and marketing. The W7 has a low distortion motor, great inductance control and close to double the Xmax or more than the subs listed. It works IB in a car.

Just remember level matching is imperative. And most smaller midbass drivers have an early "I can't keep up" point with subs. So a higher crossover point may have to be used. The high roll off of sealed/IB keeps the low bass from overwhelming the midbass as easy. You can often help your midbass by raising the crossover on the subs as well. Let the headunits tune functionality take it from there.

Okay, first let me make a correction, my old box was 3 JL 10w6's in a sealed box. It was powered by an MTX amp. When I was younger, that type of bass was what I wanted. It was a true, "knock box" that would set car alarms off from blocks away and have the police giving that "you better turn that **** down or else" look.

I'm 35 now with 3 young kids. Does the W7 sound much like the 10w6's I used to have? Or is it tamer? Also, the IDQ's now have seriously been put into contention on my list. How do these guys sound in comparison to the Ultimo SC, and the IDQ V4? And if I went with the W7, how many would I need in my 2001 4 door Honda Accord?
 

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JL W7 are nice subs, I had one before which it was 10" and i didn't know any better back then, had it connected to JL 1000/1 black edition amp, and sub went in to flames :(...

Now I have Morel Ultimo 2ohm and its a great sounding SQ sub, blends so well with front stage, and when you need that extra kick with loud and clear sound, it will do the job as well....

Its on Mosconi amp as well :)
 

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Exactly. Level matching is VERY important with the W7s. Also, because their bottom-octave output is so good, people think they're boomy when it's really just very extended output.

In a ported enclosire there are subs that will give you more output. Sealed, and with enough room, I'll take a W7 over almost anything.
I agree with you since I know more than before, The only thing i hate about JL W7 subs is that stupid 3ohm coil. WTF is that?!?!?!

Regardless I'm sure my amp will do it just fine pushing that sub!

I'm thinking myself decisions~decisions lol

I might need a 12" anyone has one?
 

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Okay, first let me make a correction, my old box was 3 JL 10w6's in a sealed box. It was powered by an MTX amp. When I was younger, that type of bass was what I wanted. It was a true, "knock box" that would set car alarms off from blocks away and have the police giving that "you better turn that **** down or else" look.

I'm 35 now with 3 young kids. Does the W7 sound much like the 10w6's I used to have? Or is it tamer? Also, the IDQ's now have seriously been put into contention on my list. How do these guys sound in comparison to the Ultimo SC, and the IDQ V4? And if I went with the W7, how many would I need in my 2001 4 door Honda Accord?
Your sub response is entirely dependant on the enclosure and whatever EQ effects you are using.

As for how many, I would start with one. As large as you can fit/afford. This goes for whatever sub you end up with.

Set it up in the form you want (sealed/IB) determine if it is adequate both in quality of sound, ease of integration with your other components and output expectations. If it lacks the oomph you are wanting, I suggest ported but tuned low (<30 hertz) because you are only out the material and time.

Use the eq functionality of your headunit and eq down the slight hump in extension and cabin gain. Determine if it has the output you want. Still if not, THEN I would look at multiple subs.

Also beware that lack of midbass or poor integration may in fact be your midbass drivers. Not the sub. Most subs, if you turn everything else off, pretty much sound the same (in the same enclosure types).

I can't remember which original member on this forum said it but basically it was "More time is spent sweating over subs than the really really important components. Time wasted on an octave to an octave and a half that has zero bearing in the actal SQ of a vehicle" or something close to that. I scoffed at those words but it really is true and I laugh about it now...:)
 

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I agree with you since I know more than before, The only thing i hate about JL W7 subs is that stupid 3ohm coil. WTF is that?!?!?!

Regardless I'm sure my amp will do it just fine pushing that sub!

I'm thinking myself decisions~decisions lol

I might need a 12" anyone has one?
It matches up with their amps just fine.
 
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