DiyMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello everybody. This is my first post here, so nice to meet ya! I went through the sticky's already, but honestly a lot of it seems like a diff language so my bad :( .

I just got a 98 Accord Sedan, and I'm planning on doing a complete Audio install. My uncle and I will be doing the Install as to keep costs down, but I'm trying to keep my budget around $700.

The plan is to get an IDQ12, build a sealed box for it, get a 500w amp (only running about 400 to the Sub), and replace my 6.5s and 6x9s. I feel like I understand the Sub (except for the different ohms, I'm lost there), but I don't quite understand speakers. If I were to put a component system of 6.5s in the front, with my tweeters in the dash, and just "midrange" (on woofersetc.) 6x9s in the back, would I be all set? Any help and/or equipment suggestions would be deeply appreciated, and thank you in advance. :beerchug:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,777 Posts
Amplifier: for a simple 4 speaker system with a subwoofer, or a 2-way active front with subwoofer without rear speakers, a simple to install and affordable option would be to get a 5-channel amplifier. Most won't quite push all 500watts to subwoofer, but in my opinion what they got is adequate for a 12 inch sub in a sealed box. Consider Polk Audio D5000.5 or Alpine MRX-V70. The Alpine is normally 20% underrated, so Polk and Alpine should both give you close to 400watt RMS power for 2ohm subwoofer. Another possibility: use a high power 4-channel amplifier like PPI P900.4 to power speakers and one subwoofer with two channels bridged.

Speakers: I don't remember what's the size of accord front woofers, 5-1/2 or 6.5. Anyways, 6.5 would be better but they need a spacer ring (check bestbuy or something). Certainly a complete component set is much better. Recently I have seen a positive review of MB Quart ONX speakers. They may be worth checking out if you're on a low budget.

Subwoofers: dual voice coil 4ohm subwoofer can be wired in parallel for final 2ohm impedance. DVC 2ohm subwoofer can be wired in series for final 4ohm impedance. If you're using a mono block or 5-channel amplifier for subwoofer power, you need 4ohm DVC model so it can be wired for 2ohm impedance.

Head unit: if you want to build an audiophile sound system consider Pionner DEH-80PRS. This has an advanced processor to run your front woofer and tweeters with "active" crossovers, 2x16 band equalizer, time alignment, and autoeq feature for tuning all of this. In this case, you won't be able to run rear speakers since the head unit can control only three sets of channels (one for tweeters, one for woofers, and a pair for sub), but it's worth it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks man. I want to run component with the 6.5's up front, but what about the 6x9s in the rear doors? Since I would already have tweeters from the component setup up front, should I just get the midrange speaker itself? And would I be okay say just using the headunit to power the speakers and run the amp straight to the sub, or would my speakers be lacking in power?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,777 Posts
Speakers will sound better with an amplifier. I don't understand the question about woofer. For the rear, it's logical just to use a 6x9 coaxial speaker.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Yeah that's what I meant my bad:blush: and yeah I'll probably run a 5 channel amp now that I think about it. Do you think 500rms would be enough power for 4 speakers and a sub running at 350? (last question I promise lol):p
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,015 Posts
I actually prefer the sound of only a mid coming from the rear rather than from a 2-way component or coaxials. You want your soundstage to be in front of you not behind you. In my last car, I had coaxials in the rear but used my head unit's crossover to LP them at 4kHz. This gave the impression that there was just ambient sound coming from the rear and gave the sense of a larger space without pulling the soundstage to the rear of the car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
So i know I said no more ?'s, but you didn't even run your amp to those coaxials? If so, then you just used a three channel to run your frontstage and sub?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
811 Posts
For $700 ish budget there is no need to upgrade or even use the rear speakers. In my car I put rear speaker back there and the only reason, was due to hauling my kids around to their soccer games. Otherwise I wouldn't use rear speakers at all....

Idq12 $100-200
Deck $200 ish
Front speakers $200 ish

Find a used 4 or 5 channel amp to run the front speakers and sub. Sub should be fine with a few hundred watts however i have always felt feeding speakers more power is better then not enough power. You also need to budget $100 +\- for amp wiring kit, fuse block, speaker wire etc
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Okay, So anybody got a tip on the best compon system for 200 then? Atm I'm thinking RFosgate, ID, Focal? And if I rock a 4 channel amp with 1 ch going to each compon and 2 bridged to the sub, then which model sub should I get (4ohm or 2ohm)?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,921 Posts
Typically, most four channel amps are stable at two ohms in stereo or four ohms bridged mono, so you would want either a single four ohm subwoofer or one that has a pair of two ohm voicecoils wired in series.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
811 Posts
don't be afraid to snag used stuff from this forum! LOTS of great stuff f/s that can be purchased at a big savings over retail. numerous manufacturers out there, not a clue what to suggest :)

Like stated above single 4 own or dual 2 ohm would do the trick. dual 4ohm could be done but the other options will give more power. Then at a later date you could always add a 2nd amp (will be easy to do if you plan ahead for it) to power the sub and let the 4 channel power the components.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
955 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
955 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #15

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
955 Posts
It would be simpler and cheaper. With a head unit you are looking at about 15W RMS power, and the comps can take 60W RMS, call it 65. Starting with a 91db @ 1w/1m efficiency rating, we can see how "starved" they would be. Power doubling to give a 3db increase in output, starting a 1 watt, we get the following:

1w - 91db
2w - 94db
4w - 97db
8w - 100db
16w - 103db (Headunit power)
32w - 106db
64w - 109db (65w -75w amp power)

So, you wouldn't lose a whole lot on terms of a output scale, however I feel that speakers really "come to life" when at their RMS rating, and you really get the full range of what they are capable of. Now, some of that is also BS, because when we perceive sound, when something is louder we think that it sounds better, subconsciously. So, does it really sound better, or is it in your head? Also, if it is in your head, and sounds better TO YOU, then is it worth it, if you do hear a difference, even if there is or is not one?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
955 Posts
Sorry, getting into the psychoacoustics of everything, but just some food for thought.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
811 Posts
You could also get a

head unit $200 ish
2 or 4 channel amp $200-400
Front components $200-400

Skip the sub for now and add it later......

I would not use the deck to power component speakers, especially since you want a sub....
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
955 Posts
Head Unit: Amazon.com: Pioneer DEH-80PRS Mobile CD Receiver with 3-Way Active Crossover Network, Auto EQ and Auto Time Alignment: Electronics Free 2 day shipping with Amazon Prime

4Ch amp: Amazon.com: SOLID4 - Focal 4-Channel 400 Watts RMS Power Car Amplifier: Car Electronics From Woofers Etc

Front Components: Amazon.com: Jl Audio C2-650 Component System 6.5" 2-way: Electronics

HU: 265
Amp: 200
Comps: 130

For a grand total just shy of $600. Then save up to get your subs later. It really will save you money to plan it out, and get decent stuff up front. The JL C2's are a great buy at that price point, however I would also look on this forum in the classifieds for a comp set. You can probably get a better set for around the same price.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
955 Posts
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top