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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just had Infinity Kappa 90csx speakers installed in my 2021 Subaru Legacy. I was listening to the installer talk to the owner and he couldnt get the front door speakers to work but the tweeters in the dash worked? His suggestion was to skip the crossover and just plug in the 6x9 speaker and run the dash tweeters off the crossover. Problem i'm having right away is that while listening to music full blast the speakers begin to distort after about a minute or two, it goes away when I turn it down and will come back after turning it back up but not always right away. Is running the door speaker without the crossover causing problems? owner said it would not cause any problems, even said they can sometimes run better with full spectrum coming in??? Also, the distortion doesn't sound like your normal speaker distortion. It's hard to explain but it sounds like damage is being done to the speaker.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Just had Infinity Kappa 90csx speakers installed in my 2021 Subaru Legacy. I was listening to the installer talk to the owner and he couldnt get the front door speakers to work but the tweeters in the dash worked? His suggestion was to skip the crossover and just plug in the 6x9 speaker and run the dash tweeters off the crossover. Problem i'm having right away is that while listening to music full blast the speakers begin to distort after about a minute or two, it goes away when I turn it down and will come back after turning it back up but not always right away. Is running the door speaker without the crossover causing problems? owner said it would not cause any problems, even said they can sometimes run better with full spectrum coming in??? Also, the distortion doesn't sound like your normal speaker distortion. It's hard to explain but it sounds like damage is being done to the speaker.

Thanks in advance.
One Band Aid way of doing it would be just to throw some inline caps on the full range speakers to knock the lower frequencies out. However, it really sounds like a case of a bad installer.. if you want me to be totally honest.
 

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Just had Infinity Kappa 90csx speakers installed in my 2021 Subaru Legacy. I was listening to the installer talk to the owner and he couldnt get the front door speakers to work but the tweeters in the dash worked? His suggestion was to skip the crossover and just plug in the 6x9 speaker and run the dash tweeters off the crossover. Problem i'm having right away is that while listening to music full blast the speakers begin to distort after about a minute or two, it goes away when I turn it down and will come back after turning it back up but not always right away. Is running the door speaker without the crossover causing problems? owner said it would not cause any problems, even said they can sometimes run better with full spectrum coming in??? Also, the distortion doesn't sound like your normal speaker distortion. It's hard to explain but it sounds like damage is being done to the speaker.

Thanks in advance.
Passive or active? is the distortion coming from the mid or the tweeter? Bi amped or
A passive set of crossovers usually don't have a high pass built in for the midwoofer, just the tweet. That leads me to believe it isn't due to running the mid higher than it would with the xo. Its not out of the ordinary for coax sets to only use a cap on the tweeter, and no inductor on the mid, allowing it to play the full range. But it's on you or the installer to put a HP on the mid via the amp or hu options.

If it is happening at high volumes after a while, and goes away after turning it down that sounds like you are throwing more power at the speaker than it wants. And that the coil is building up more heat than it can realistically take, then power compression starts to come in heavily.
If it is from the midrange, than I would suggest putting an inline cap infront of the mids to do some filtering of low frequencies, or setting the crossover frequency in your headunit up to a higher frequency.
If it is from the tweeter, and I am correct, than your only real option is to attenuate the tweeters volume via the crossover or back down the power.
 

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CHANGE INSTALLER!
 

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Yes, the resistance could be an issue, I don’t know if the head unit can handle 2.5ohms but I do know that the stock speakers are 4ohms. But the stock wires, unless they upgraded them since 2016, are cheap 20awg so the wires will add some resistance.

Idk if this info is helpful or not but the stock dash speakers are run off on-star (whatever it’s called) rather than the head unit like the door speakers, so even if your car didn’t come with stock dash speakers those wires will be live. Maybe try running the door speakers off the x-over without the tweeters on the slim chance that might work, you can easily get inline crossovers that’ll cut out the low frequencies for the tweeters but you can’t easily get passive low-pass filters for the door speakers.

Definitely get a capacitor/bass blocker for the doors if you’re not using the crossover, the low frequencies are almost certainly what’s making them distort (unless it’s the signal distorting). Having them playing higher than they’re designed for won’t be a mechanical issue however they will beam and they will play the same frequencies as the tweeters, even if they weren’t beaming that’s not ideal.

does anyone have any idea why the crossovers wouldn’t work? I can’t come up with a single reason other than being defective. Or someone messing up the wiring.

you’ll want something like these unless you can get the 2-way x-over to work (again there’s no earthly reason they shouldn’t work unless they’re defective or they messed up wiring,but maybe someone can correct that).
Look for something like that with a much lower cutoff point. The frequency for those is listed for 4ohms, when you go down to 2ohms the frequency will double,… so you’ll want something around 100hz for 2ohm,… or 50hz for 4ohm, I would go much below given they’re slope will be -6dB per octave. You can google what value capacitor you’ll need to get the desired cutoff for 2.5ohm speakers and buy a set at a store that sells electrical supplies (or order online) and solder them to the positive wire going to the speakers.

in-line crossovers are just regular capacitors, just need to figure out value you need in microfarad based upon the speakers ohms and the cut off you want. Bare in mind using capacitors will give you a slope of 6dB per octave, which is quite shallow. Meaning the rate at which the signal is decreased is -6dB per octave, an octave down is half a frequency an octave up is double. If you crossed them over at 80hz the speakers would play 40hz 6dB lower than everything over. Basically if you’re listening at 90dB (which is about what those speakers produce with 1 watt of power) it’d play 40hz at 87dB if you use a capacitor to cut them off at 80hz. Bare that in mind when choosing a capacitor. You’ll want to go well above 80hz.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Here is the update. Running the door speakers through the crossover shuts down the signal at the HU, thats why they wouldnt pop. I'm not sure why this doesnt happen with the tweeters? Anyway, I had an Lc7i and an Audio Dynamics 600 watt 4 channel amp installed, we had to install Audio Control resistors installed to fake the system into thinking everything was normal. New problem is that the amp goes into protection mode at 60 to 70 percent volume with converter output set low and amp gains set very low. What sort of tests can I do to track down this problem of the amp going into protection mode long before the amp is pushing the speakers very hard.
 

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Here is the update. Running the door speakers through the crossover shuts down the signal at the HU, thats why they wouldnt pop. I'm not sure why this doesnt happen with the tweeters? Anyway, I had an Lc7i and an Audio Dynamics 600 watt 4 channel amp installed, we had to install Audio Control resistors installed to fake the system into thinking everything was normal. New problem is that the amp goes into protection mode at 60 to 70 percent volume with converter output set low and amp gains set very low. What sort of tests can I do to track down this problem of the amp going into protection mode long before the amp is pushing the speakers very hard.
At this point... I'd just tell them to pull all the gear out, and give you your money back.
Go somewhere else. Seriously. These guys clearly don't know what they're doing.
 

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At this point... I'd just tell them to pull all the gear out, and give you your money back.
Go somewhere else. Seriously. These guys clearly don't know what they're doing.
There are some very tell tell signs here.
Like the very obvious being if they would have used the lc7i pro a simple switch provides the resistive load needed to trick the factory hu.
And thr only amp I see that is both audio dynamics and 600 watt also being a 4 channel has all the necessary xovers to not even need the passive.
I was thinking that he took it to a new place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'm beginning to think that not may people have any experience with new vehicles that have OHM sensing systems tied into all the cars safety alert systems. Subaru has made it pretty difficult to find information needed to add after market parts to their HU because they don't want anyone messing with it. But then they put crappy speakers into cars with 12in. touch screens. Audio Control makes a solution specifically to address this problem AC-LGD | AudioControl. When the speaker level inputs were connected straight to the LC7i the system OHM sensing would shut off the audio, we tried to run just the rear speakers and sum to the other channels and the volume went full blast with no controlling it. Called Audio Control and they knew of the problem right away and had the LGD's built just for this so we ordered them and installed them and things are mostly working. I have a 6 speaker setup so I do still need the passive crossovers to split CH 1&2 into 4 CH up front.

By design, everything is hooked up correctly and should be working fine but I now have the problem of the amp going into protection mode and I know this setup should be pushing harder and I know the Kappa speakers can handle it. I just got new batteries for my Multimeter and today I want to test out the ground, voltage output of the line converter and the output from the amp. I've never done this so some advice on how to set the multimeter would be great. Any other advice would be great also.

Another question I have is that the LGD is 20 OHM 50 Watt. Every fix I have come across used 4 OHM resistors and people are reporting that this solved all their problems. I can't find anything about setups installed into 2021 Legacy's, only 2019 and 2020 and nothing with my HU.

306948
 

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I'm beginning to think that not may people have any experience with new vehicles that have OHM sensing systems tied into all the cars safety alert systems. Subaru has made it pretty difficult to find information needed to add after market parts to their HU because they don't want anyone messing with it. But then they put crappy speakers into cars with 12in. touch screens. Audio Control makes a solution specifically to address this problem AC-LGD | AudioControl. When the speaker level inputs were connected straight to the LC7i the system OHM sensing would shut off the audio, we tried to run just the rear speakers and sum to the other channels and the volume went full blast with no controlling it. Called Audio Control and they knew of the problem right away and had the LGD's built just for this so we ordered them and installed them and things are mostly working. I have a 6 speaker setup so I do still need the passive crossovers to split CH 1&2 into 4 CH up front.

By design, everything is hooked up correctly and should be working fine but I now have the problem of the amp going into protection mode and I know this setup should be pushing harder and I know the Kappa speakers can handle it. I just got new batteries for my Multimeter and today I want to test out the ground, voltage output of the line converter and the output from the amp. I've never done this so some advice on how to set the multimeter would be great. Any other advice would be great also.

Another question I have is that the LGD is 20 OHM 50 Watt. Every fix I have come across used 4 OHM resistors and people are reporting that this solved all their problems. I can't find anything about setups installed into 2021 Legacy's, only 2019 and 2020 and nothing with my HU.

View attachment 306948
Well...it is set right and it isn't set up right.
The lc7i will work in conjunction with the added load resistors.
But in this case and really all cases that need load resistors should use the lc2i pro. Seen here AudioControl LC2i PRO
This should be used with some sort of dsp.
There are also dsps that have several different load resistors built in.

But really...THE most important thing the shop you are working with should have explained is that it's all or nothing with a new car.
The days of just adding some nicer drivers is kinda over.
The radio in your vehicle does not only have many many things integrated into it also has a dsp that uses all pass filter a ton of eq as well as time alignment and xovers. Sensors for your doors could also be looking for the resistive load that it uses for the radio.
So when you swap just the speakers without the correct integration all these problems pop up.
All that being said an lc2i pro, a dsp and proper ground for the amp correctly set gains and if you have a problem at that point in time....then blame the equipment.
As it is now though with the amp turning off....could be a bad ground, a bad amp, incorrectly set gain structure or all of the above.
 

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For the ground it needs to be touching bare metal that is in direct contact with the frame. When checking the ground (in ohms) you want zero resistance, but less than 0.5 shouldn’t be an issue as long as you know your meter isn’t reading low. Disconnect the negative battery terminal, attach the positive pole of the meter to to positive battery terminal (if you don’t have an extension for the meter you can use speaker wire etc., but use the highest gauge you have access to and the shortest price of wire you can use so it won’t add resistance). If you use that method I’d use a lot of electrical tape to make sure it won’t come lose. Then probe the ground location with the negative lead from the meter. The ground from the equipment should be touching bare metal so that’s where you’d be probing. If you come up with ANY resistance that’s not equipment error then you’ll need to find a new ground. There are some pretty good posts on here on how to do this, much better than my summery. I’ll try to dig those up. I’m not sure if this was what you needed/wanted help with but it’s all I can think of based upon your question.

when I first started getting into car audio (last September because of a blown speaker) I had a shop (authorized JL dealer, claimed to have gone through their “training”) put in new speakers (running off HU) and a sub,.. they used a 6’ (six FOOT) ground wire (ground location was less than 3’ away), spliced into front left speaker for audio input [(used a passive LOC even though the sub has high level inputs) before I went to them I did the research to figure out that my car has time alignment, which o made sure they knew before they put the sub in. So it sounded like the sub was in a trailer I was pulling {slight exaggeration}]) in a manner that practically ruined the inputs into the left door, for the remote turn on they spliced into a wire going to the HU using a modified tap/add-a-fuse (could have just plugged it into the fuse box), ran the power line through a grommet in the firewall, removing (and keeping) the rubber grommet (this was behind the carpet so didn’t notice water was getting in until it was too late). I’m leave out some things but this is already long enough.

on the up side, if they didn’t screw up so much that even someone who’d never done anything with a cars electrical system could tell that it was a fire waiting to happen I probably never would have done anything else with the audio system and stopped there.Having to go back after them and fix their numerous mistakes (wasn’t much they didn’t screw up) gave me the confidence/experience/whatever you want to call it to keep upgrading (I’m never having a shop do anything again, even if I move and have a very good local shop). So,… try to get this in working order yourself (of course don’t do anything you’re not 100% sure of and ask here/do research to learn whatever you have to). If you enjoy hands on projects you might just get a new hobby out of it that’ll always have something for you to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Ha... That reminds me of the first time I installed a system.. I didn't want to run the power myself and I was using all Home Depot wiring so I picked a real classy place which was a pawn shop / car audio place in a shady neighborhood in Atlanta Ga. Guy said he would run the power for $20, he actually drilled a hole through the firewall and ran it through there, which at the time I didn't mind because I was stupid. Since then I had done all my cars myself, VW Bug, Ford Explorer, Honda Civic, Ford Tempo and two Toyota Tacoma Pickups. All of them I put in new head units, speakers all around and subwoofers with two or three amps and most with an active crossover. Used to be much easier and never had any compatibility issues till now. I knew I didn't want to start ripping apart my new Subaru and right now I don't have a garage to work in so I'm stuck going with installers. I did switch installers from the first one who installed the speakers and the new place is straight forward about the learning process with the Starlink system. Only time will tell I guess.
 
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