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Discussion Starter #1
So far I've treated my doors with hushmat, closed cell foam, and mass loaded vinyl. I've gained some midbass but I'd really like more. I still want to seal up the access holes in the doors with something (probably 1/4" plastic and silicone or butyl) and I still need to seal around my speaker plates. I'm wondering what else I can do, I'm very open to changing speakers if it will help. I'm running hertz hsk165s right now. Thanks for any suggestions
 

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So far I've treated my doors with hushmat, closed cell foam, and mass loaded vinyl. I've gained some midbass but I'd really like more. I still want to seal up the access holes in the doors with something (probably 1/4" plastic and silicone or butyl) and I still need to seal around my speaker plates. I'm wondering what else I can do, I'm very open to changing speakers if it will help. I'm running hertz hsk165s right now. Thanks for any suggestions
once you seal up the holes in your doors that should make a huge improvement if the holes are of a large size. What kind of power are you running to your 165's?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The holes make up about 1/3 of the door. I'm running two channels of an arc audio ks300.4 on the midbasses right now.
 

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The holes make up about 1/3 of the door. I'm running two channels of an arc audio ks300.4 on the midbasses right now.
Seal up the holes like stated before hand. You can use sheet metal flashing available at home depot or lowes.
Cut to size deaden front and back and if access to the door is a concern use some sort of screws to attach.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I hadn't thought about sheet metal flashing, what other materials are people using?
 

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So far I've treated my doors with hushmat, closed cell foam, and mass loaded vinyl. I've gained some midbass but I'd really like more. I still want to seal up the access holes in the doors with something (probably 1/4" plastic and silicone or butyl) and I still need to seal around my speaker plates. I'm wondering what else I can do, I'm very open to changing speakers if it will help. I'm running hertz hsk165s right now. Thanks for any suggestions
I would suggest using non-hardening clay or even duct seal around the speaker baffles. Do your best to seal up access holes. As others stated, you can use aluminum flashing. If you have fiberglassing skills, you could seal the holes up that way. That's what I plan on doing.
 

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I hadn't thought about sheet metal flashing, what other materials are people using?
Some just use deadner but others like my self use something thats a little more rigid.
basically anything that will conform to the shape needed and will give when under pressure.
Think of your door as sub box. make it as strong and sealed as possible.
I use the flashing check out the build logs people use use all kind of things.
 

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If you have some room between the door and panel make a trim ring to aim the drivers up and more toward the listeners.
That will do nothing to improve midbass. Imaging.... maybe.
 

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I would use open cell damping inside doors instead of closed cell. Closed cell won't absorb rear waves. Put non hardening clay around the speaker. Back chamfer the baffle to gain better rear ventilation. Cover all holes to the inside and make sure that the baffle is mounted as stable as possible.

Stable mounting and prevent leakage would be my two top priorities for midbass performance.
 

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I would use open cell damping inside doors instead of closed cell. Closed cell won't absorb rear waves. Put non hardening clay around the speaker. Back chamfer the baffle to gain better rear ventilation. Cover all holes to the inside and make sure that the baffle is mounted as stable as possible.

Stable mounting and prevent leakage would be my two top priorities for midbass performance.
Use open cell foam in your doors and you WILL end up with one stank ass mushy mess
And to get any kind of notable dampning at midbass freq you would need to a piece of foam about about a foot and a half thick.
Even then.......
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If you have some room between the door and panel make a trim ring to aim the drivers up and more toward the listeners.
Unfortuantely it's very tight between the door panel and the speaker.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'm using the closed cell foam between the cld on the door and the mlv
 

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That will do nothing to improve midbass. Imaging.... maybe.
I have made custom pods for many doors and aiming the drivers towards the listeners allows you to here the speakers better mid bass and highs. Anytime speakers are facing each other like in the left and right doors you get cancellation. Aiming these drivers away from each other is always going to help increase sound quality.
 

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to the op, those are good drivers, once you get your door sealed up well and deadened, you will really enjoy them. with good clean power they really do pound out some midbass when asked to.
 

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Use open cell foam in your doors and you WILL end up with one stank ass mushy mess
And to get any kind of notable dampning at midbass freq you would need to a piece of foam about about a foot and a half thick.
Even then.......
Had OC foam inside my door for 3 years or so without any moisture issues. Put it on the vibration damping and not directly on the door. The reason I believe it does some good is that it dampens overtones, ringing and resonances caused by door parts and so on. Might not give MORE midbass but will help clean it up. I use 1,5" foam and I'm happy with the results. It will do most good in midrange though, true.
 

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I have made custom pods for many doors and aiming the drivers towards the listeners allows you to here the speakers better mid bass and highs. Anytime speakers are facing each other like in the left and right doors you get cancellation. Aiming these drivers away from each other is always going to help increase sound quality.
Really......:laugh:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I've heard that the non hardening clay is not good to use in very hot areas. I live in the south and it gets extremely hot. Is there a certain brand or type of clay I should look for or should I try to use something else?
 

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I've heard that the non hardening clay is not good to use in very hot areas. I live in the south and it gets extremely hot. Is there a certain brand or type of clay I should look for or should I try to use something else?
Duct seal. Much better than the modeling clay in that it holds up in extreme temperatures. It can be found in the electrical department of Home Depot.

 
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