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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, everyone. I'm a newbie on this forum.

I'm considering trying IB in my Lexus LS430.
3-way SQ setup. At the moment the sub is Sinfoni C320 in a sealed box, but it has to be rebuilt to fit correctly and to direct the sub upwards.
Love the sound, a very fast, deep response. But it will take a lot of work to rebuild the box.

I've attached the photos on my trunk. The rear seats do not fall down, there's a refrigerator and there's rear AC system. + there's a sound insulation behind the seats and I installed.

So the only way the air from the sub is coming - is throughout the factory 8 (increased to 10) inch hole in the rear deck.

I wanted to try 1x15 or 1x18 FI ib318 v2 pointing to the trunk so the air will come throughout the rear deck. (4-th picture attached).
Reasons:
- Easier to build the baffle than to build a custom sealed box.
- Takes less space / less weight.
- To play very low with ease.

Can you please advice - is it worth it to build an IB in this trunk and the best way to do it?
Will the 18-inch sub match the speed of my 6 inch midbass?

Thank you very much!
 

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I too would like to hear opinions on this, and/or ideas.

I also have an LS430, a 2001 with just over 198k miles on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Update: bought an IB sub. FI IB3 18inch.
Will be installing it.

Question: Is it necessary to build the rear wall of the manifold as shown on this image? (behind the magnet). Or is the front wall enough?
 

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No if you can get a good seal to the deck only thing I'm worried about is some weird quasi Bandpass behavior. The front is going to be a regular baffle right?
 

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Any updates on this?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Update:

I will be installing FI IB3 18 (first gen) soon. Choosing the location at the moment.

Thinking about building the baffle at the angle. (ATTACHMENT 2) Like the guy on this forum did, but I plan to aim the magnet inside the cabin.
This way I could save a little bit more space of the trunk.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Started building the baffle.

This is just 1 layer of 3/4 plywood. Will be gluing 2 of them, and probably the third one of 10mm (already done) to make it solid.
The next layer will cover the holes that are clearly visible.

I also cut the back OEM cover behind the sub to allow the air move thought the rear deck hole.
Will be increasing the hole from 8in to 10+ inches.


I plan to secure the baffle to the top of the rear deck and to the floor with solid metal corners.
 

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Started building the baffle.

This is just 1 layer of 3/4 plywood. Will be gluing 2 of them, and probably the third one of 10mm (already done) to make it solid.
The next layer will cover the holes that are clearly visible.

I also cut the back OEM cover behind the sub to allow the air move thought the rear deck hole.
Will be increasing the hole from 8in to 10+ inches.



I plan to secure the baffle to the top of the rear deck and to the floor with solid metal corners.
Nice start!

Regarding your statement (bold and underlined above):

Just make sure you have good separation (airtight is the goal) between the front and rear of the speaker. Sounds like you’re trying to get more air to the rear of the speaker (facing the front of the car) by enlarging the hole in the rear deck - most just allow the sound waves to pass right through the rear seats, which they do with ease. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hello, thank you for your response!

The "problem" with my car is that the seats can't be folded + there's a solid baffle after the seat + there's rear AC after that baffle (with a refrigerator in the ski pass) + I sound deadened heavily the rear seats inside the cabin.

So, my main goal is to allow the air from the sub to move through the rear deck hole and rear deck as a whole. Of course, some of it will also come from behind the seats.

I will be secure the baffle at the beginning of the rear deck (and I will insulate every hole so that air is separated from the trunk, but the other part of the deck (2/3 of the deck) will allow the air to move into the cabin.

Hope it will work well.



Nice start!

Regarding your statement (bold and underlined above):

Just make sure you have good separation (airtight is the goal) between the front and rear of the speaker. Sounds like you’re trying to get more air to the rear of the speaker (facing the front of the car) by enlarging the hole in the rear deck - most just allow the sound waves to pass right through the rear seats, which they do with ease. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thank you!

One 3/4 plywood piece is soooo not enough :)

Update:
I glued a second 10mm piece of the baffle that's behind the main one.

Tomorrow - I will add a third 3/4 piece that will be covering the areas that are not tight.

I also sound deaned half of the rear deck with a 4mm heavy material that is very solid. The part of the rear deck that I will secure the baffle.

I will post more photos tomorrow.


18" Fi looks sweeeet Make sure to triple up
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Installed the sub. Not perfectly, of course. There are still some small gaps left.
The baffle is 4 layers at the moment (very heavy. I think 4 layers is overused, but I have to add them because I've cut the hole larger than it needs to be 2 times!!!!)

Running it from a small 2channel Steg that gives 400w bridged. Think it could handle 500w.

Comparing FI IB3 to my previous Sinfoni 12 in sealed...It can play low easily and you feel the bass. The response is smooth, with no "hearable" peaks (will be measuring with REW soon).

As I expected - this sub can't play high, but it can play up to 45-50 with a drop after from what I hear.
So there's a lot ot work left with the midbass be able to play at least to 63 with 12db.
If I won't be able to make the midbass play that low - I will think about 2*15 AE subs that can play higher.

I love the sound and I think I will stick with IB for now.

- I have to sound deaden the whole trunk.
- Cover small gaps that are left.
- Build an amp rack.
- Work on the midbass.


Can anyone recommend amplifiers for this FI IB3? I have a powerful Steg K2.03 which lies on the shelf (gives up to 1000w in 4 ohms bridged), but it think I don't need that much power. + it's quite large.

What about D-class amplifiers?

P.S. Thinking of getting 2x15 AE SBP subs (I've heard a lot of great reviews about them). How they would compare to 1xFI IB3 18 that I have now?
 

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Installed the sub. Not perfectly, of course. There are still some small gaps left.
The baffle is 4 layers at the moment (very heavy. I think 4 layers is overused, but I have to add them because I've cut the hole larger than it needs to be 2 times!!!!)

Running it from a small 2channel Steg that gives 400w bridged. Think it could handle 500w.

Comparing FI IB3 to my previous Sinfoni 12 in sealed...It can play low easily and you feel the bass. The response is smooth, with no "hearable" peaks (will be measuring with REW soon).

As I expected - this sub can't play high, but it can play up to 45-50 with a drop after from what I hear.
So there's a lot ot work left with the midbass be able to play at least to 63 with 12db.
If I won't be able to make the midbass play that low - I will think about 2*15 AE subs that can play higher.

I love the sound and I think I will stick with IB for now.

- I have to sound deaden the whole trunk.
- Cover small gaps that are left.
- Build an amp rack.
- Work on the midbass.


Can anyone recommend amplifiers for this FI IB3? I have a powerful Steg K2.03 which lies on the shelf (gives up to 1000w in 4 ohms bridged), but it think I don't need that much power. + it's quite large.

What about D-class amplifiers?

P.S. Thinking of getting 2x15 AE SBP subs (I've heard a lot of great reviews about them). How they would compare to 1xFI IB3 18 that I have now?
If that sub can only play up to 40-50hz it's complete junk. There's no reason to believe it won't easily play well into the midbass range. A 80 or 100hz LPF should not be a problem for any subwoofer.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
There are lots of FR graphs of these FI's. It doesn't play higher.

I will take a REW measurement tomorrow to get more idea.



If that sub can only play up to 40-50hz it's complete junk. There's no reason to believe it won't easily play well into the midbass range. A 80 or 100hz LPF should not be a problem for any subwoofer.
 

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There are lots of FR graphs of these FI's. It doesn't play higher.



I will take a REW measurement tomorrow to get more idea.
Can you post a link to these graphs? Curious as to what the response looks like for a sub that can't play higher than 50hz. Inductance would have to be pretty dang high for a sub not to reach 100hz, but more importantly, I'm guessing there's some nasty peaking that needs to be dealt with EQ which probably throws most for a loop. Add cabin gain to a sub peaking in the it's midband and that's a recipe for audio disaster.

Man & Machine... Power Extreme!
 
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