DiyMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've made a rookie mistake and I'm trying to figure out the easieast way to remedy it. I'll try to post pictures later to make this more clear.

I built the baffle for my 15" JBL GTO IB application last weekend and spent a long while fitting everything as tightly as I could against the "hole" between the trunk and the cabin. I got everything upholstered and looking nice, and then dropped in the sub for the install. The only thing I didn't factor in in all of my fitting and measuring was the height that the sub would stick out above the surface of the baffle (about 1.25 inches), and that's what killed me. When I push the baffle up to the angle I had fitted it, the top of the sub's "flange" hits the metal crossbar which supports the backseat and prevents me from getting the baffle all the way up against the frame of the car.

I would just pull off the fabric and take about an inch off of the bottom of the baffle, but then all of the fitting I did around the top of the baffle will be wasted and the baffle might not even cover the hole. So my next step is to try to mount the sub to the back of the baffle, I guess.

Dropping the sub in the hole the "normal" way and screwing it in, you have gravity working for you to secure the sub. Botton mounting it to the back sort of puts gravity against you as the 27 pound sub pulls backward on the baffle.

So the question is, should I be able to bottom mount the sub on the baffle and use some sort of lag bolt or something to secure the sub to the baffle without risk of it pulling out over time? Will a nut/bolt/lock-washer solution rattle itself out as the sub vibrates against the baffle? I guess it's really no different than hanging the sub from the rear deck, but I just wanted to see what type of hardware should be used.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. If worst comes to worst I'll just build another baffle, but I'd like to make sure I've exhausted all of my other options first.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
185 Posts
I would use a bolt, lock washer, nut and Thread locker. That is just me but I would rather be safe then sorry. If you put a little thread locker on the threads of the nut it will hold them in place. If you do have to ever pull the sub it will take some force to break the thread locker free but you won't have to worry about them vibrating free.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,408 Posts
Bolt/washer/wood/sub/washer/ NYLOC nut..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Should I place some foam weather stripping for a good seal, or will the cast rubber ring around the sub serve the same purpose?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
185 Posts
I personally take and make a ring of non hardening modeling clay around before I clamp it down. It will make a good seal, as well as help to dampen vibrations even farther.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
343 Posts
both the foam and the clay will work. The foam won't be as messy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,392 Posts
Are you saying you have it back mounted now and you can't get it in loaded? If so just mount some blocks/brackets against the bottom of the sub then take it off, then hang the sub on them in the car so you can fasten it in.

If the sub is heavy bolts of some kind would be better.

Can you modify this bar a little to fit it? If it is hidden sheet metal and it will not deform the bar just bend the edge out/etc and cover it with material or something if visible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Are you saying you have it back mounted now and you can't get it in loaded? If so just mount some blocks/brackets against the bottom of the sub then take it off, then hang the sub on them in the car so you can fasten it in.

If the sub is heavy bolts of some kind would be better.

Can you modify this bar a little to fit it? If it is hidden sheet metal and it will not deform the bar just bend the edge out/etc and cover it with material or something if visible.
The "bar" is unmodifiable. It's probably 4 inches thick (although hollow inside) and the place I would need to bend it houses the latch that holds my back seat up agains the rear of the car.

I think bottom-mounting it is my best (least re-work involved) option.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,392 Posts
The "bar" is unmodifiable. It's probably 4 inches thick (although hollow inside) and the place I would need to bend it houses the latch that holds my back seat up agains the rear of the car.

I think bottom-mounting it is my best (least re-work involved) option.
Should be able to back mount with no problem, just pre-do all your holes and get it held up there one way or another.

If you have a router you could sink/recess the sub into the baffle some, unless you think the suspension will hit too....if I understand right.

If you really need to, you can make another smaller baffle and sandwich it to this one. Screw/glue them together, just make sure you don't get the same issue and can get the sub in/out...because you moved the sub back to a different place. Thicker baffle will never hurt you. If looks are an issue, just hog the hole out in the original one so it looks like you recessed the sub that way, in fact then you can front mount it providing you can cut the old hole large enough. I used to do that when the seat was close to it so the cone could not hit anything. Gives it more airspace too as the cone does not come out past the baffle, or a normal sub would not travel that far anyway.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top