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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a new IDQ 12 that has always made a rattling sound. At first I thought I was driving the speaker too hard, and I was disappointed that it only took a small bit of volume for it too make this sound. I’ve tried 3 different enclosures and none of them made a difference. If I tap on the cone of the driver, it makes a rattling sound as well. The sound is only audible when tapping on the driver below the “image dynamics” logo. I have tried reaching out to Image and have heard nothing back on my two attempts. I haven’t dealt with Image since Eric and Matt left, and now I kind of regret it. Anyway, I am kind of wondering if it might be a loose dust cap? I have had the gain set way back and keep the volume down, but it’s so disappointing to think this sub has so much potential and I’m missing out on it.




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I had the same issue with a pair I bought back around 2012. I wasn't sure what was the problem, I just knew it didn't sound right. Mine made a "buzzing" sound at any volume (low and high) and they were Brand new. I think it had something to do with the cone alignment/design since they have a modular design to be able to replace the cone/voice coil assembly. I ended up returning them. I think its a QA issue with the assembly line in the factory not aligning the VC correctly with the shims.

You might try loosening up the cone assembly screws or take the cone assembly off and inserting shims (or index card/paper) between the voice coil and the magnet assembly and re-installing the cone and see if that works. The VC channel is very narrow so the margin of error is very small. You might have to give it a few tries before it works (IF IT will work) but in theory its worth a shot.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I had the same issue with a pair I bought back around 2012. I wasn't sure what was the problem, I just knew it didn't sound right. Mine made a "buzzing" sound at any volume (low and high) and they were Brand new. I think it had something to do with the cone alignment/design since they have a modular design to be able to replace the cone/voice coil assembly. I ended up returning them. I think its a QA issue with the assembly line in the factory not aligning the VC correctly with the shims.

You might try loosening up the cone assembly screws or take the cone assembly off and inserting shims (or index card/paper) between the voice coil and the magnet assembly and re-installing the cone and see if that works. The VC channel is very narrow so the margin of error is very small. You might have to give it a few tries before it works (IF IT will work) but in theory its worth a shot.

Good luck.
Thank you! I might give that a shot. The box looked unopened when I received it, but the screws on the back side of the surround look like some of the heads are striped. I’ll watch a video on the re-coning process before I proceed. Is it similar to the older ID Max re-cone?


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Yeah its almost exactly the same. The only difference is the IDQ is (if I remember correctly) made of fiberglass (the basket material) instead of steel (ID max) so you'll have to be careful not to crack/strip any of the materials and not torque/tighten the screws down to the point where you break/crack/strip any of the components/parts.

Other than that its the exact same process you just need to be extremely careful/gentle when re-assembling the cone.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah its almost exactly the same. The only difference is the IDQ is (if I remember correctly) made of fiberglass (the basket material) instead of steel (ID max) so you'll have to be careful not to crack/strip any of the materials and not torque/tighten the screws down to the point where you break/crack/strip any of the components/parts.

Other than that its the exact same process you just need to be extremely careful/gentle when re-assembling the cone.
Awesome! Thank you!


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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah its almost exactly the same. The only difference is the IDQ is (if I remember correctly) made of fiberglass (the basket material) instead of steel (ID max) so you'll have to be careful not to crack/strip any of the materials and not torque/tighten the screws down to the point where you break/crack/strip any of the components/parts.

Other than that its the exact same process you just need to be extremely careful/gentle when re-assembling the cone.
What subs did you go with after returning your IDQ’s?


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JL 10w6v2 (My #1 all-time favorite even today)

Sound is 100% subjective IMHO, people will argue until their eyes and ears bleed. They will talk about RTA, soundstage, and using pink noise for a "flat" sound with a RTA.

But I (subjectively) prefer the soundstage to be focused on the driver position because its my car and I am the one listening to music 100% of the time and want to feel like I have a pair of headphones on (music centered for me). and I set my sound for the music genre I prefer.

with all that said, I've gone through a lot of subwoofers and the 10" w6v2 would be my "all-around" great performer (other than bass-head output) if you want more output then get 2 of them. I do like Digital designs but they require ported boxes and a more wattage. the 10w6v2 is really flexible with the enclosure requirements sealed/ported. I also set my EQ by ear (and its actually pretty close to flat sound with a slight higher preference to mid-range and low-end :cool:) for pop and hip-hop/rap music.

But hey, stick with what you like and tune your system to your preference. We're all on the quest for the "perfect" sound system.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
My brother has a pair and they do sound amazing! A bit more than I wanted to spend, but maybe a 12w3 would fit the bill. Thanks!


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I've had the w6v2 in all sizes (10" , 12" and 13")

Personally all 3 sizes gave me different sound and output. the 10" was the one I preferred. There are a lot of people that LOVE the 12". I do not share the same opinion, but the beauty is you can get the 12" and compare it to your brothers 10s and see if you can tell if there's a difference.

When that time comes let me know (y)
 
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