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If I Buy These Two Components What Should Be The Third? (4" Help)

1946 Views 11 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  JohnnyTwoTone
If I, for an active 3-way setup, buy (not for me, per se) a pair of Peerless 830946 SLS 6.5" woofers and a pair of Peerless 810921 1" tweeters which 4" would match in well? With those other two parts being fairly 'best-value' oriented I'm obviously not looking for 'the best there is' so let's put the budget for the 4" pair at $200.

I wanted something from SEAS but all I seem to come across are expensive sets that are more home-setup oriented or old stuff that I know nothing about.

Any starting suggestions?
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might as well keep it all peerless and get the hds 4's. (available from overseas website)
^I assume you're referring to these Peerless HDS 4" mid-range drivers. Is it safe to assume that if an amp is rated for 150watts RMS under 4ohm that it will be outputting 75watts RMS to an 8ohm speaker (which is what ohm rating that Peerless is)?
An HDS Nomex or Exclusive would be a nice mid in that set-up.

An amp that puts out 150W RMS at 4 ohms will probably put out around 85-90W RMS at 8 ohms since an amp doesn't perfectly double it's power output when the load goed down by half.

Aurasound NS4-255-8F Wideband 8 ohm Special from Madisound

Audax HM100C0 4" Carbon Fiber Cone Woofer from Madisound

Vifa TG9FD10-04 3.5" Full Range from Madisound

SB Acoustics SB12NRXF25-4, 4" midrange - 4 ohm from Madisound

Peerless PPB 830870 - 4" Poly Cone Woofer from Madisound

Parts Express:Tang Band W4-1337SD 4" Titanium Driver

Parts Express:Tang Band W4-657SH 4" Aluminum Driver

Parts Express:Tang Band W4-656SC 4" Shielded Driver

Parts Express:Tang Band W4-1320SJ 4" Bamboo Cone Driver

Parts Express:Dayton RS100-4 4" Reference Full-Range Driver 4 Ohm

I know this doesn't really help, but the point being you can do a lot with just $100.00.

For this scenario though, even though I threw several metal cone drivers in there, I'd stay away from a metal cone, except for the Dayton RS100. The Peerless tweeter is top notch, so you'll want to go with as a low a distortion woofer as you can afford. That nixes the Aura, and the lower priced Tang Band offerings. Not really sure if the Peerless HDS woofer hangs in there at this point either.

That leaves the two higher priced Tang Bands, the RS100, and the Audax. The Audax is an exceptional driver. The Tang Bands both use the same low distortion motor. The bamboo cone will exhibit a bit more warmth than the titanium, and might mesh better with the tweeter. The titanium cone though will exhibit better harmonic distortion due to the stiffer cone. The RS100 is just a solid driver that competes very well with it's higher priced counterparts. You really can't go wrong with it.

I think you should consider the Audax because it's not my money.
It's different. It's an excellent driver. If it's too much money, the Bamboo Tang Band will do very well.

In order, this is what I'd go with, given a $200.00 budget.

Tang Band Bamboo
Tang Band Titanium
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Funny, i would try them in the exact opposite order!
Funny, i would try them in the exact opposite order!
Haha, well saying that just confuses me.

I like the idea of the Tang-Band bamboo coned woofer but the Audax looks much more compact. I'm not really interested in super ridged metal cones as I prefer a very smooth "musical" tonality to my systems without the need for 100+ hours of break in to smooth out peaks in the high vocal range.
don't judge the Ti TB because of the cone material, that is one smoooooth mofo.
I have the TB W4-657SH aluminum driver in some home speakers i threw together and like them quite a bit. They are coupled with some generic crossovers and play from 500 - 5000 currently and do so admirably in my opinion
Those Tangbands are also nice indeed and with an x-max of 3mm one way, they can be crossed quite low depending on the power you throw at them.
The titanium Tangband is high on my list for using in my own system without a tweeter.
With a fantastic tweeter as the Peerless HDS, the bamboo cone version will suffice and probably match better.

In that set-up, I wouldn't know what to choose between the TangBand Bamboo and the Peerless HDS (Nomex) and in the end probably go with the Peerless to make sure it matches the tweeter and midbasswoofers perfectly.
That Peerless PPB mid looks really interesting. I'm thinking of using that in a 2-way active front stage and some 8 or 9 inch subs. I'd like to crossover that mid at about 160 Hz or so. Not sure on the tweeter yet but it has to be something small format so I'm considering a Morel MT23, Rainbow CAL 26 metal, or HAT L1V2.

There aren't to many reviews of the PPB mid so I'd love to hear from anyone that has tried it.
I'm thinking that sticking with the Peerless PPB may, in fact, be the best way to go when you consider that the tweeter and mid-bass are both Peerless (so, good matching), plus the price, and the compactness of the PPB compared to the Tang-Band. The bamboo Tang-Band is the front running when not considering that matching factor - though I can't see a matching issue really. Though, with very little info on the Peerless I'd be going in blind.

In a unrelated matter I'm now considering buying 5 Dayton RS100s (or 8 if I double up on the fronts) and pairing them up with a nice tweeter each (what's large format tweeter that's closets to the Peerless but like half the price?) to build small surround sound speakers for my home audio. I need new small, compact speakers to replace my current 'too-big' ones and those Daytons are damn cheap while also being regarded as very good for the price. Add a sub to that and BAM - lookin' good! Of course I'd have to figure out a cross-over solution for each box for that... damn you speaker GAS!
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