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I don't find this to be true. At least in my experience... maybe others. I've played with enough IB setups to come to the realization that many aren't really optimized. You really shouldn't have to EQ a proper IB setup into submission much more than a proper sealed setup. A good sealed will dip down just as low and a proper IB should be as musical with decent overshoot, but the difference and the targeted advantage of IB is of course.. better efficiency without the weight and room taken up with an enclosure.


That said... here's some interesting bits of yore. Notice the 12 was only spec'd with a 40hz Fs albeit the 8 & 10 were high 30's? This wasn't uncommon back then though xmax wasn't as high as current subs. Lots of efficiency lost in unnecessary low Fs these days I bet.

Notice #10 in this thread



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I didn't have to do much, but it was too efficient at around 48hz. Iirc it took about 4db out of there and pushed about 3db into 22hz. To get to what I've found to be close to a half whit down to 20hz (for some reason I didn't tune to a target curve back then, was still quite green lol).
But what I gained was from 40hz down. I could somewhat tell that it was there previously, but it wasn't balanced with the rest of the response if I wanted leave enough xmax to rock out. Come to find out metal drops will go down into the 20hz range sometimes and the 10in didn't like it at all with higher volumes lol.
But yeah there there is tons of efficiency lost with low FS drivers. But since power is so cheap now, I would rather have a low FS sub with a high xmax and push a bit of boost into the higher frequencies if needed over throwing a ton of boost at the low end of a high fs driver that tends to have less xmax.
 

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Discussion Starter · #262 ·
I didn't have to do much, but it was too efficient at around 48hz. Iirc it took about 4db out of there and pushed about 3db into 22hz. To get to what I've found to be close to a half whit down to 20hz (for some reason I didn't tune to a target curve back then, was still quite green lol).
But what I gained was from 40hz down. I could somewhat tell that it was there previously, but it wasn't balanced with the rest of the response if I wanted leave enough xmax to rock out. Come to find out metal drops will go down into the 20hz range sometimes and the 10in didn't like it at all with higher volumes lol.
But yeah there there is tons of efficiency lost with low FS drivers. But since power is so cheap now, I would rather have a low FS sub with a high xmax and push a bit of boost into the higher frequencies if needed over throwing a ton of boost at the low end of a high fs driver that tends to have less xmax.
I like to throw alot of boost in too on the upper end....o wait....

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in the rear deck. I did a lot of deadening too. The interior speakers sound great, it’s just the subs don’t sound right. Not enough frequency spread to them. (Note, this isn’t the deadening I have now. I pulled that out and used better stuff and did a better job).

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Replace that with thick and wide enough MDF.

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What a long thread! It’s really very simple.
You need bigger subs or at least subs designed for IB or that have specs better for IB.
Even then going under 30hz with small subs isn’t likely.

Have you mentioned if you are using a dsp? You have phase issues is why you have bass with some then others you turn it up and it gets no louder

I guarantee you have phase issues. Even guysthat are full active using dsp like I do have phase issues. If you aren’t doing anything to address this nothing is going to help. There is absolutely zero chance you can slap subs in a non active system and have nophase issues. Impossible
This thread is so long because some idiot engineer put a fuel tank between the trunk and back seat in this guy's car, he doesn't want a box in the trunk, and most people can't understand why he can't just use a larger sub.
I think he should just yank the fuel tank, install a fuel cell, install his favorite sub in the newly empty spot, and throw his cargo in the back seat, but that's just me.
 

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You will not find anything with six inputs. The only thing is a jl audio fix 86. Six in. 8 out. Not a processor. Line driver....kinda.
Just mount the freaking knob. I know you gotta blank that your not using for fogight switches or something.....
MiniDSP C-DSP 8x12 has 6 rca inputs.
 

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I think he should just yank the fuel tank, install a fuel cell, install his favorite sub in the newly empty spot, and throw his cargo in the back seat, but that's just me.
I like how you’re thinking.

There must be a ton of space available for a true ib sub cutout into the space where the fuel tank normally would be, under the car…
 

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You will not find anything with six inputs. The only thing is a jl audio fix 86. Six in. 8 out. Not a processor. Line driver....kinda.
Just mount the freaking knob. I know you gotta blank that your not using for fogight switches or something.....
Not true. Most dsp have 6. My helix dsp.3 has 6
 

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Not true. Most dsp have 6. My helix
You will not find anything with six inputs. The only thing is a jl audio fix 86. Six in. 8 out. Not a processor. Line driver....kinda.
Just mount the freaking knob. I know you gotta blank that your not using for fogight switches or something.....
Yeah, there are quite a few with 6 input. Minidsp 6x8, helix dsp.3, audison bit nove, audio control dm-608, ect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #275 ·
Lol. If you guys saw what I had to custom build for this fuel tank to house twin 340 pumps and not have fuel slosh issues, you’d understand why there will be no fuel tank removal to accommodate a speaker.
I fabricated this bucket, hold 2.5 liters of fuel with the pumps in it. I machined the top out of solid billet bar stock.
here’s a peep

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Discussion Starter · #276 ·
3d printed baffles aren't very heavy. Even if you print with 100% infill, they aren't nearly as dense as MDF. And weight will help the rear deck from flexing as much and robbing you of output
Honestly, and not trying to undermine your suggestion, but I feel certain the possible gain isn’t worth the effort. And besides, the back deck has double layers on a lot of it and multiple stiffening bends. For the small amount of sub bass I’m after, I just don’t think it’s worth it. I know some of you may notice I have a pump 750 mono amp, but that’s because I had different subs in there. I got that amp free from Fosgate when I was doing some product testing for them. Actually I got loads of stuff for free back then, and this is one of the better amps I have left so I used it.
 

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Honestly, and not trying to undermine your suggestion, but I feel certain the possible gain isn’t worth the effort. And besides, the back deck has double layers on a lot of it and multiple stiffening bends. For the small amount of sub bass I’m after, I just don’t think it’s worth it. I know some of you may notice I have a pump 750 mono amp, but that’s because I had different subs in there. I got that amp free from Fosgate when I was doing some product testing for them. Actually I got loads of stuff for free back then, and this is one of the better amps I have left so I used it.
I dont think the MDF will help a ton in comparison. Just going off of his suggestion.
But no, I understand, I just know how much good sub bass brings to music after it's been experienced. I've had recovering bass heads/spl guys and people who "hate bass" tell me the same thing when I've had this conversation with them. But they have all changed their mind when they have hopped in my car (and it's not all that great lol). Typically the bass heads ask why the sub is so quiet and are surprised when I tell them it's being pushed up to its limits on some tracks.
I would see if there is anyone around with a solid build that you can listen to. But everyone has different needs, so I'm not here to judge.
 
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