[narvarr]

What is more effective for correcting imaging and staging when the tweeter and mid are not mounted close together, time alignment or crossover point. I have my mids mounted in the factory door location and the tweets mounted high in the door of my GMC Canyon. I would like to do tweeter pods on the a pillar for on axis response but not sure how it will affect the sound.

 

[Fast1one]

Im assuming you are going active? If so, so long as you have enough flexibility with time alignment, crossover points, slopes, independant gains, and hopefully independant L/R EQ, you should be fine.

The important thing to note is that EVERYTHING comes into play when attempting to recreate stereo imaging in a hostile environment like a car. Which tool is more effective depends on the vehicle, install, and drivers. The more of the mentioned tools you have, the better chance at success.

I would suggest doing some experimentation with the drivers to see if you can get a concrete foundation with the install FIRST. You can do this by playing with different positions, angles, and relative phase (though I usually discourage using this option). Then use one of the many tuning guides found here to start.

 

[Neil]

What is more effective for correcting imaging and staging when the tweeter and mid are not mounted close together, time alignment or crossover point.

Horizontal comes from interaural time differences and interaural intensity differences. Vertical comes from your anatomical transfer function (also referred to as your head related transfer function).

Do a quick search on what these mean and how to manipulate them. It's been discussed several times here.

 

[narvarr]

Im assuming you are going active? If so, so long as you have enough flexibility with time alignment, crossover points, slopes, independent gains, and hopefully independent L/R EQ, you should be fine.

The important thing to note is that EVERYTHING comes into play when attempting to recreate stereo imaging in a hostile environment like a car. Which tool is more effective depends on the vehicle, install, and drivers. The more of the mentioned tools you have, the better chance at success.

I would suggest doing some experimentation with the drivers to see if you can get a concrete foundation with the install FIRST. You can do this by playing with different positions, angles, and relative phase (though I usually discourage using this option). Then use one of the many tuning guides found here to start.

Yes I am going active either with an Eclipse cd7000 headunit or an EPX2. The only way to get closer to an equal distance on the tweets is mounting them on the A pillar. If time alignment affects these elements more, then I would go with the cd7000. If crossover points and independent L/R gain is more of a factor, then I would go with the EPX2 since it is better equipped for those functions. I will do a search for the terms mention but it is honestly the first time I have heard of them.