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Discussion Starter #1
Recently attempted to install aftermarket radio in Impala and now it won't start
here's what exactly happened:
1. Began radio installation, removed dashboard, removed previously installed aftermarket radio kenwood kdc 135
2. During removal of old radio, two copper ends sparked
3. Disconnected negative terminal after this happened
4. Continued with installation of new head unit
5. installed head unit, car started and i went to work
6. Went to leave work 6 hours later and car doesn't start (clicking noise, flashing accessories)
7. car starts and runs perfectly after being jump started
8. turn car off, go to turn back on...nothing.

Can anyone tell me what is going on with my car and a possible DIY solution to fix it? Thank you
 

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Sounds like a drained battery...there's a few possible explanations. Here is some things to try:

1. Check your battery terminal connections. Could have been a little loose when you reconnected the battery.
2. Charge the battery. If you have a battery charger, use it. If not, jump the vehicle and drive it for at least 30 minutes. Idling is not an efficient way to charge your battery.
3. Check the battery terminals for corrosion or acid build-up.
4. Follow the wires from the battery looking for corrosion or loose wires.
5. You can take the battery to an auto parts store for them to load test it if its still doing the same thing after charging.
6. Don't forget to check all your fuses since you did short out a wire initially.
7. If the fuses, battery, wires and connections all check out as good, consider the alternator. The auto parts store should also be able to test in your car with it running.

Post back here if you still haven't found the source of the issue.
 

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You probably wired everything to constant voltage instead of switched voltage. Even when you turn the car off things are staying on, draining your battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Bad batt or your alt is bad. How long did you drive it after the jump?

After the jump:
1. Drive to Pep boys, left car running while I was inside for about 10 minutes
2. Drove about 15 minutes to Subway, turned car off
3. Left subway, car turned on fine,
4. Drove to Walmart, turned off
5. Left Walmart to go home, turned on fine
6. Arrive home, sit in driveway for about 10 minutes
7. Turn off, go to turn on, won't start again.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sounds like a drained battery...there's a few possible explanations. Here is some things to try:

1. Check your battery terminal connections. Could have been a little loose when you reconnected the battery.
2. Charge the battery. If you have a battery charger, use it. If not, jump the vehicle and drive it for at least 30 minutes. Idling is not an efficient way to charge your battery.
3. Check the battery terminals for corrosion or acid build-up.
4. Follow the wires from the battery looking for corrosion or loose wires.
5. You can take the battery to an auto parts store for them to load test it if its still doing the same thing after charging.
6. Don't forget to check all your fuses since you did short out a wire initially.
7. If the fuses, battery, wires and connections all check out as good, consider the alternator. The auto parts store should also be able to test in your car with
it running.

Post back here if you still haven't found the source of the issue.
Had a buddy check it out he told me:
1. No corrosion on battery terminals, tight
2. He checked out ignition but nothing seemed to be the issue there
3. He couldn't exactly pinpoint what exactly was happening

However, I have not done a fuse test with the multimeter...it has been raining the past couple of days and my car is currently in the parking lot at work next nice day I will check all the fuses...I will report back here after that
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You probably wired everything to constant voltage instead of switched voltage. Even when you turn the car off things are staying on, draining your battery.
When I removed the previously installed aftermarket radio I only disconnected the wires that went from the radio to the harness.
When I installed the new radio I just wired the same wires from the new radio to the existing harness
For the 20 minutes I drove to work after the initial install, the radio worked beautifully.

What wire would be causing the constant drain?
 

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Well, it just sounds like you have a bad battery and it coincidentally gave up on you when it did. Take the battery to have it tested, that'll answer the question right away.

As for the wiring issue I suggested earlier, it doesn't sound like that's the case, but check to see if the stereo stays on after the car is shut off. If the constant power and switched power were mixed up the stereo could stay on all the time. Do you have any amplifiers in the system?
 

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Well, it just sounds like you have a bad battery and it coincidentally gave up on you when it did. Take the battery to have it tested, that'll answer the question right away.

As for the wiring issue I suggested earlier, it doesn't sound like that's the case, but check to see if the stereo stays on after the car is shut off. If the constant power and switched power were mixed up the stereo could stay on all the time. Do you have any amplifiers in the system?
Even if he switched the constant and switched it still wouldn't work if the car were off. Keys removed as the switched 12v wouldnt be there. Still has to have a constant and switched 12v+

Right?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
no amplifier in car only head unit

Like I said when i disconnected the old head unit to install the new one i only disconnected the wires that went from the head unit to the harness and then when i installed the new one i only connected the wires that i had cut from the old head unit.
example: connected red with red, black with black, grey and black with grey and black...and so on.

I will run a fuse test with a multimeter tomorrow to see if anything is drawing power from the battery
 

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Even if he switched the constant and switched it still wouldn't work if the car were off. Keys removed as the switched 12v wouldnt be there. Still has to have a constant and switched 12v+

Right?
Since this is basically a swap and not a brand new install I don't think there is an issue.

The problem occurs sometimes that people try to bypass the need for a harness kit and they just tap into wires behind the dash, sometimes they tap into constant voltage instead of switched. If they do this the HU will stay on.

But, he doesn't have amplifiers and the install was just a swap, so I really don't think that this is the problem. Even if someone made this mistake, a HU would not draw enough power from a healthy battery to drain so quickly.

The battery is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
When I had a friend look at my car one of the first things he did was check the voltage from the battery with a multimeter and I don't remember what the exact voltage was but he said it was good.

Can a battery be bad, but still be pass the multimeter voltage test?

I'm not all that great with car terminology, but I think you can figure out what I am saying here.
 

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Can a battery be bad, but still be pass the multimeter voltage test?
Yes. A multimeter can read 12v appropriately but the battery still lack the reserve to push big amperage when you attempt to start the car.

A load test can identify a bad battery before the volts drop.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yes. A multimeter can read 12v appropriately but the battery still lack the reserve to push big amperage when you attempt to start the car.

A load test can identify a bad battery before the volts drop.
Can I get a load test done at my local advanced auto parts, or autozone?
 

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Like Krank said, measuring a car battery with a multimeter won't tell you much. The battery needs to be put under a load to see if it is good. Most chain auto parts stores will put in on the bench for free. Most of them will ask you to leave it for a while so that they can first charge it up to spec, then see if it holds a charge. Your car is an '03, if you aren't on at least your third battery yet, consider yourself lucky. A high quality Die Hard Battery will get you about 5 years. If you have a stock or lesser quality battery, expect about 3 years.
 

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The plates inside a battery are partially dissolved and reformed as a battery charges and discharges. After many cycles (or age alone, or by a few heavy discharges), the plates can reform in a way where they are almost touching. So I'm guessing the battery has an intermittently shorted plate. Sometimes it's fine, but when the plates touch, the battery is internally shorted and can't produce enough power to start the car.

measuring a car battery with a multimeter won't tell you much. The battery needs to be put under a load to see if it is good
True, but u can easily put a battery under load by starting the car -- no need to remove it and leave it at the auto parts store! U can hook up the multimeter and then try to start the car to see if the voltage falls off.

Of course, if I'm right about the intermittently shorted plate, the voltage will be fine when the car starts and weak when the car won't start. But the auto parts store won't be able to tell either.
 

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Bad battery as had been said.

Had one do the same thing on a used car I bought. Sometimes work something ones not.

Took it into dealer, service guy told me to move it so they could check it out.

I went to start it and battery exploded
 

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Discussion Starter #20
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So I will likely be taking my car to get fixed tomorrow, however with a little more exploring i have found this...see attached image....corrosion n the green wire.

Anybody have an idea if this can be leading to my issue?
and what exactly is the function of this green wire?
 

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