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I was under the assumption that if used with a 9887 it uses the set x-over the user inputs. The H650 probably has the issue you're referring to but I doubt that applies to 9887+KTX-100
That's what I though with the 100 as well. I ran the Imprint which gave me anemic midbass, then went in a turned it off and re set the crossovers to my preference. When I went back in and selected curve 1, I still had the better midbass. Obviously this defeats the run and I need to redo it, but it seems that the Imprint will respect the set xovers. I'll re run to make sure.
 

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Thanks for this. Very helpful.

Those that have the software running on Vista, are you running 32 or 64 bit? I cannot get the software to run successfully on my Vista 64 laptop, I get the connection error.

I am running the 2.10 software with iDA-X305 and PXA-H100.

When I first installed the software, I didn't run it as administrator. I uninstalled it and reinstalled it as administrator, then I restored the laptop to the day before I installed the software, but I wonder if that first install sans admin rights isn't blocking the proper USB connection. I am at a loss.

Sorry to hijack the thread.
 

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Thanks for this. Very helpful.

Those that have the software running on Vista, are you running 32 or 64 bit? I cannot get the software to run successfully on my Vista 64 laptop, I get the connection error.

I am running the 2.10 software with iDA-X305 and PXA-H100.

When I first installed the software, I didn't run it as administrator. I uninstalled it and reinstalled it as administrator, then I restored the laptop to the day before I installed the software, but I wonder if that first install sans admin rights isn't blocking the proper USB connection. I am at a loss.

Sorry to hijack the thread.
At least you got it to run on Vista. I had to borrow a friends xp machine to get it to work. :rolleyes: I had a bunch of problems initially with connection as well. Make sure all cables are connected and the deck is turned on before you attempt to open the program. One time I had to reboot the computer with the cables attached and then open the program to get it to work. It's real buggy about this.
 

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To get your midbass from the focals back...lower the xover on the sub. Imprit is trying to send it through that, which is good for stock speakers. Make ure xover on the focals isn't too high also.
gotcha... this makes sense.

I turned the crossover completely off on the sub... so I'm guessing the imprint was trying to get 200Hz or so outta the sub... LOL

I usually cross at 60Hz between the mids and subs... is this a good point?

Btw I'm running the passive crossovers from focal for the tweeter to mid cross... so I don't think I'll have any adjust ability there.
 

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At least you got it to run on Vista. I had to borrow a friends xp machine to get it to work. :rolleyes: I had a bunch of problems initially with connection as well. Make sure all cables are connected and the deck is turned on before you attempt to open the program. One time I had to reboot the computer with the cables attached and then open the program to get it to work. It's real buggy about this.
Thanks fastlane, will try this tomorrow.
 

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Imprint defeats all settings on the headunit...if it didnt, everyone could get 3way active to work. If your midbass wont extend to what imprint wants, it will just force it out of the sub. Look at your graph from imprint...make sure your "after curve" sits around the same height as the "before". If everything lays well above the "before" then your gains were too low and imprint is boosting the sh_t outa everything.

As for xover point...there is no "1 size fits all", just know this...it takes 1 hell of a midbass to extend to 60hz keeping up with the levels that subs are ran.
 

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Imprint defeats all settings on the headunit...if it didnt, everyone could get 3way active to work. If your midbass wont extend to what imprint wants, it will just force it out of the sub. Look at your graph from imprint...make sure your "after curve" sits around the same height as the "before". If everything lays well above the "before" then your gains were too low and imprint is boosting the sh_t outa everything.

As for xover point...there is no "1 size fits all", just know this...it takes 1 hell of a midbass to extend to 60hz keeping up with the levels that subs are ran.
Hmm so where would you recommend I cross a Focal 165 K2P driver at?
 

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I normally xover mids at 80hz on a 12db/oct. slope, changes with different setups though. I would also use that for the imprint, which would protect them from imprint trying to cross them too low. Listen to it w/o imprint on, get an idea of what xover points work best and then run imprint...imprint will set its own but your settings will at least try to force some sort of outcome from it.
 

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Over here i had the same problems flightz71 ran into.
I also have a x305 with a h100 and the K2P's. (also in a bmw e46 ;-) )
I spent a few day trying to get it right.

Here is what i did:

1 make a setup in manual mode that sounds ok to you
2 disable all filtering facillities on your amps for the K2p's ( no xover)
3 Set your xover for your sub to the point desired (75 hz for me)
4 Make sure your gains are set pretty high for your k2p's. (3/5 open i did)
5 Turn your sub gain down, and i mean all the way down.
6 Run the imprint on the front left position, doing all possible measurements.
7 I uploaded the LINEAR curve, as it had much more midbass for me.
8 After uploading the curve, i cranked up the sub gain.
9 Done!


This was for me the best possible setup, providing me the low-end power the K2P should run with IMHO
It really sounds great now :)
 

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It is a tutorial thread, not a review, not a good vs. bad, not a buy it or don't buy it thread. Information For a specific product. Keep it ON topic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Imprint defeats all settings on the headunit...if it didnt, everyone could get 3way active to work.
This is incorrect for the 9887. Imprint respects the crossover settings in the headunit. This can be confirmed by using an RTA after tuning.

The last few times I ran Imprint I even let it set the sub crossover. I am not a bass head and prefer higher sub crossovers for better integration anyway. I get very consistent up-front bass.
 

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At least you got it to run on Vista. I had to borrow a friends xp machine to get it to work. :rolleyes: I had a bunch of problems initially with connection as well. Make sure all cables are connected and the deck is turned on before you attempt to open the program. One time I had to reboot the computer with the cables attached and then open the program to get it to work. It's real buggy about this.
FYI - I have run it on both Vista, and now on Windows 7, both 64 bit.

Even though aspnet on Win 7 should be backward compatible to 1.1, you also need to load the ASPnet 1.1 pack, which I did first.

The trick is that the drivers for the serial interfaces have to get picked up from windows update, the ones on the disk are quite old.

What I did was install the software, take my laptop into the garage, where I still have wireless access, and plug in the usb/mic connections and turn on the HU.

Windows detected two devices (a serial device and a usb device if I recall), and it took a bit, but windows update did find the drivers.

Once they loaded, with everything still connected to the HU, I ran the software and it worked fine.

When I ran it on Vista the ASPnet wasn't an issue.
 

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Great tips, I was initially kind of disappointed with how imprint sounded in my truck but after doing multiple tests and adjusting things i'm pretty happy with it overall for normal listening but definitely not if i want to show off the bass in my system even though i do have it adjusted to my liking with bass under normal listening

details on my system
2000 GMC Sonoma extended cab
Alpine iDA-X100 w/ PXA-H100 processor
all mid/highs are Infinity Kappa's (older versions from early mid 2000's)
2 x 4x6 Plates in the dash
2 x 6-1/2" components in the doors
2 x 6x9's in sealed boxes mounted to the rear of the cab firing upward
1 x 12" fosgate T1 sub in a custom built box i made myself, slot ported 2.25 cu ft tuned to 34hz
1x Fosgate Power T4004 4 channel for highs
1x Kicker 08zx750.1

the whole roof of the cab is dynamatted because i used to have 2 JL 15's in this truck and the resonance on the roof was so bad it made extremely loud brrraaah noises when the bass hit :D.

I also made sort of dynamat boxes underneath my door and dash speaker stock mounting locations awhile back and that greatly improved those speaker's sound.

what i discovered with tuning my setup is a few things

for best imaging i had to ditch my door speakers (6.5" components) with them connected either with or without the dash speakers the sound stage was either way too much to the right (i could hear most sound come from the right door speaker as it was firing at my ear directly) and also relied on the rear 6x9's too much on the left side making for an odd sounding sound stage.

due to this i disconnected the doors and went with just my dash 4 x 6 plate components and the rear 6x9's for added sound and better mid bass the 4 x 6's obviously lack due to their size.

when running the test always make sure to turn all the settings on the HU off and make sure sub level is 0, balance and fade are centered, pre-tune your high gains so they are even and not turned up excessively of course and shut off all cross-overs if you can and if not then turn it to max. I had to do this on my kicker as its got an undefeatable LP xover as well as a static 25hz subsonic filter. turn you sub gain down from the norm setting but not a whole lot, my norm setting was 1/2 and for tests i would turn it down to 1/3 and back up to 1/2 as well as upping the HU sub output to 8-10 out of 15 after the testing with MultiEQ on.

here is a big thing i discovered as well as some other users, if your like me and you do not have the convenience of a quiet garage you can put the vehicle in for the test to control exterior sounds screwing up test results. make sure you test late at night and that no cars drive by or you can also do what i did for a few tests i ran on the weekend during the day and drive to a empty business park where all of them are closed or in the case of where i live often unoccupied because a car drives by or any other decent noise happens around your car when doing it you might as well scrap it and test again or your results are not optimal and could even sound bad.

as for mic locations, a tripod is of course a must for this and i had good results with the centered on your head position then rear center then pass center then to the left and right of your listening positions method the most for sound stage and for more mid/bass the take 4 measurements from the driver seat only method audessey said to do worked good as well (centered then to the left and right 3-6" and then forward 3-6")

lastly aside from the normal turn the sub gain back up to normal and boost sub output on the HU till it sounds good to you i have also found that tweaking the balance and fade slightly is needed to get the perfect sound stage and balance from my front to rear speakers. i also found in my last test that i need to bump up the bass setting +2 to get a little better mid bass and turn down the treble to -2 when using the reference curve, this tweaks it more to be like how the linear curve sounds and i prefer that curve overall but for some reason the last time i tested i decided to try ref with mid comp out and i did not like it much and should have loaded linear because it has better bass and less treble than the ref curves but this of course will vary depending on how you like your sound.


here is screen shots of the test results that i am currently using




i have tweaked my normal settings without the MultiEQ to my liking and overall it is much louder esp with bass, with MultiEQ it really is no contest how much better it sounds.

before i bought this unit i was using an old school Alpine ERE-G180 11 band EQ with BBE and the beauty of that EQ was BBE and how it could make anything with bass play loud pounding bass and this of course never matches that no matter what but then again i'm not really looking to have that any longer as my ears have been damaged from high SPL subs enough from the 15's i used to have in it :)

I would rate it this way from what i've recently used in my truck

Alpine w/ PXA-H100 manually adjusted w/o imprint on is the worst

Alipine w/ERE-G180 (BBE) best for having decent SQ while having killer bass

Alpine w/ PXA-H100 w/ properly done and tuned imprint hands down the best SQ but not the best bass or overall volume level, it seems to adjust my HU's volume knob so middle is very quiet, 3/4" is low volume and max is loud, but not loud enough to hear your ears or blow you out of the seat with bass *without adjusting amp gains on all amp's up more than they were tested at*

one interesting side effect that I'm sure is why it does this volume limiting is to prevent you being able to turn the volume up to a point where the system distorts even if you really do have power headroom in your amp/speaker setup to support the higher volumes without much if any distortion.

keep in mind if you do run this setup on these newer Alpine HU's and you wish to switch it off make sure to do so with the volume turned down because you could possibly do some damage to speakers if you switched modes when the volume knob is too high!!
 

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nice review thanks a lot.

actually I also use the reference and the reference with mid comp

i also have the problem with the sound stage moving to the right, but i re-mesure using the mic in the drivers position, and then putting down the gain on the right tweeter.

now is almost centered, with just a little more to the drivers position, wich is right for me.

sounds awesome on the drivers side, and very very good on the passengers side.
 

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for an addition to my mini review above i have how also setup TrueRTA on my laptop and tested the mic accuracy before hand with my other PC and using the Alpine mic here is how my truck looks with pink noise played back for a few minutes in TrueRTA



certainly not as flat as Alpines generated graph is but still not bad for an in car sound system.

keep in mind i love bass hence the huge peak of bass levels that is provided by me turning up the sub amp gain and HU level

also this was taken with the HU set to linear EQ mode not Reference as i prefer the added mid-bass linear seems to give you over the brighter highs of the reference setting :)

its raining now but later this week maybe this weekend i'll do some more testing with TrueRTA to see what other modes look like
 

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Before I start I have read through pages and pages of threads on imprint however I still need clarification on something and would appreciate some help :) I just finished installing pioneer c720prs 2 way (active) front stage with a sub in the boot. Hu is alpine x305 and I have the pxa-h100 and ktx-h100 tuning kit. As I am running active I am not using the passive xovers that came with the pioneers however am I right in saying that if I auto tune with the ktx it does not set the xover for the tweets? Does this mean they are getting full range sent to them? Wouldnt this damage them? Just want clarification on this and if I am correct some advice? Maybe throw the passive xover on for the tweets? Thanks
 

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Hello, i am new here and have a question about this imprint KTX-H100. I have installed it on my laptop but everytime i try to run it i get a a message that states Common Language Runtime Debugging Services, Application has generated an exception that could not be handled. It ask to click cancel to debugg but then it says the JIT debugger is not available. Can anyone help with this? I am very eagger as you can imagine to get the processor working. Thanks.
 

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Hey guys im fed up with my pxa-h100 and PXAH100. Just isnt my thing. To much work for me right now and my jeep is very space limited as well as the fact I have to maintain a waterline to keep stuff safe. Shoot me a pm if you are interested in them.
 

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When setting the HP for the tweeters, do you set them below what you think they SHOULD be crossed at so that IMPRINT will "fix that" or does that cause that crossover point to be the permanent setting?

The reason I ask is because I don't think my amplifier can cross high enough for a tweeter - it is 500hz IIRC at its highest setting.

Thanks.
 
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