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You don't have to brace from the outer skin to the inner, although that is the best way. You could also for instance, bolt a couple prices of u - channel steel or aluminum to the inner skin to stiffen it up.

You in the end have to evaluate your door panel, and decide what to do. If you can brace, and are willing to make the mods to do it, I would always suggest that over layering it with a bunch of cld.
 

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Good!

26 hrs to shoot it :eek:, take 2-3 hrs from the total time it took to do each door.

I agree a lot of money in materials went in each door.

For the ones wanting to have a factory pro look with easy access to door servicing
 

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I have never thought of bracing the door. It should in theory give superior results. Any one have any pics they would like to share of a door with added braces?
 

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Adequate coverage with CLD is 25%, but that's just adequate coverage... Would 90-100% coverage have any negative results other then time and money spent, no! Does the added CLD help, yes. Just the weight alone added to a flimsy door will help about every aspect of the speakers performance, maybe it's a marginal gain, but it's a gain. Same applies with CLD on the backside if door panels too.

Bracing, proper baffles, ect will further assist... Weakest link is the door itself. Bracing, baffles, CLD, and other treatments are all techniques that aid in woofer performance. There are many roads to take to get to a destination... This video highlights Marks way.

My way starts with the largest, thickest, most sustainable baffle I can make. Void free Baltic Birch, HDPE, Aluminum... Then go from there.
 

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I used 28 gauge sheet metal to seal a large opening, about 14" long, flexible and light, I used CLD on the inside.

My question is, will I increase rigidity to the sheet metal by gluing 1/8" MLV to the existing sheet metal facing the door panel? Will it be worth it?
 

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I used 28 gauge sheet metal to seal a large opening, about 14" long, flexible and light, I used CLD on the inside.

My question is, will I increase rigidity to the sheet metal by gluing 1/8" MLV to the existing sheet metal facing the door panel? Will it be worth it?
You will not increase rigidity... You need to add a more rigid material then MLV or you need to add bracing, baffles, ect... Just adding 28 gauge sheet metal isn't necessarily going to help either, if you bead roll it or dimple dye it, then it would be much stronger... That or you should use a stiffer/thicker material.
 

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You will not increase rigidity... You need to add a more rigid material then MLV or you need to add bracing, baffles, ect... Just adding 28 gauge sheet metal isn't necessarily going to help either, if you bead roll it or dimple dye it, then it would be much stronger... That or you should use a stiffer/thicker material.
Thanks,
I figured 28 g sheet is not stiff, only CLD on one side made it much heavier and helped with less flexing, gaps between the metal and door are sealed well, the bass is good, I can't complain, it may flex a bit, I have played with the door panel off, no noise or rattles detected. I was just wondering if I could make it better to improve the bass, I guess the 1/4" ABS will be better, I just don't know if I can screw a 1/4" material and still make the panel fit. I may go with 22-24 g aluminum sheet metal, it may be more flexible and easier to work with than using the same gauge in stain or sheet metal, I doubt, Galvanized 22-24 g sheet metal will be available at an affordable price. I only paid $10.00 for this sheet, more than enough to do 4 doors. :)
Shop IMPERIAL 24-in x 36-in GV Flat Sheet at Lowes.com
 
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