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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Couple questions for you guys

I bought PAC speaker brackets for my 6.5 speakers, bought from here so no mounting hardware, what type of screw should I be using to mount the speaker to the plastic bracket?

Similar question but for sub box and subwoofers, I have some dry wall screws laying around, would that be fine?

And finally for a main fuse bracket, is MDF fine to use under the engine? I'll have some left over from my amp rack and would make mounting the fuse easier
 

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Couple questions for you guys

I bought PAC speaker brackets for my 6.5 speakers, bought from here so no mounting hardware, what type of screw should I be using to mount the speaker to the plastic bracket?

Similar question but for sub box and subwoofers, I have some dry wall screws layingi around, would that be fine?

And finally for a main fuse bracket, is MDF fine to use under the engine? I'll have some left over from my amp rack and would make mounting the fuse easier
1. If the bracket is threaded, take it to a hardware store and figure out what size screw matches. If not, then a fine pitch self-tapping screw should work.

2. Most use a combo of machine screws and either a threaded insert or a T-nut.

3. The only way you should use MDF in an area prone to moisture is if you coat it with something like bedliner. Otherwise, use something like a hdpe cutting board from WalMart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
1. If the bracket is threaded, take it to a hardware store and figure out what size screw matches. If not, then a fine pitch self-tapping screw should work.

2. Most use a combo of machine screws and either a threaded insert or a T-nut.

3. The only way you should use MDF in an area prone to moisture is if you coat it with something like bedliner. Otherwise, use something like a hdpe cutting board from WalMart.
No threads, so just some screws got it

It's a prefab box, no holes yet (That I've noticed)

I entirely forgot about those, I even had a post saved about it, any tips for cutting it?
 

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Brand new pre-fab shouldn't have holes, you'd be amazed at how much a screw hole can let air escape and screw up your sound. Get some threaded insert nuts or hurricane nuts, pre-drill your holes, dab some super/CA glue on the threads and put those in. This allows a good tightening, the sub can be removed and put back in the same way without more holes and stronger fastening.

Cut the HDPE the same way you'd cut the MDF. Circ or jig saw works fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Brand new pre-fab shouldn't have holes, you'd be amazed at how much a screw hole can let air escape and screw up your sound. Get some threaded insert nuts or hurricane nuts, pre-drill your holes, dab some super/CA glue on the threads and put those in. This allows a good tightening, the sub can be removed and put back in the same way without more holes and stronger fastening.

Cut the HDPE the same way you'd cut the MDF. Circ or jig saw works fine.
Yay another trip to home depot lol, this sounds like a plan
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Did you even make a home depot trip if you didn't go back 3 times?
I must be giving the old lady at the exit some serious deja vu

1. If the bracket is threaded, take it to a hardware store and figure out what size screw matches. If not, then a fine pitch self-tapping screw should work.

2. Most use a combo of machine screws and either a threaded insert or a T-nut.

3. The only way you should use MDF in an area prone to moisture is if you coat it with something like bedliner. Otherwise, use something like a hdpe cutting board from WalMart.
Also, you referenced HDPE cutting boards, all I could find was polypropylene ones, looks like melting point is around 300F, which I think should be safe, at least appears to be higher than HDPE, not sure if there's another physical property that would cause PP to be unsafe
 
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