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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all. I'm not experienced with audio equipment and I've come across some issues with my installation process.

Car : 2014 Hyundai Genesis Coupe Rspec 3.8L (Without upgraded sound from factory)
Head Unit: Sony XAV-AX1000
Mono Amp: Phoenix Gold d.1000
Subwoofers: Phoenix Gold 12in 500 watt RMS each

I am Installing components for front door:
Polk Audio DB6501 6.5"

And coax for the rear:
Polk Audio DB652 6.5"

I started with the front. I have two stock lines to each door. One for the stock tweeter and one for the stock 6.5" woofer.

I tried connecting both lines into the crossover input (this input only has 1 set of +&-) and then of course for the 2 outputs I connected my new woofer and tweeter. I noticed that the woofer wasn't being powered well. I connected the stock woofer again and it was much louder and more responsive.

Did I connect them wrong or is it because I need an amp sending the approximate 100 watts RMS to this new speaker?

Any help would be much appreciated. I can provide photos if anybody needs a visual.
 

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How is the headunit wired into this factory system? Is there a factory amp between the aftermarket HU and the speakers?

You've invested this much into the system, I would just run a 4 ch amp rather thing power this off the HU.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
How is the headunit wired into this factory system? Is there a factory amp between the aftermarket HU and the speakers?

You've invested this much into the system, I would just run a 4 ch amp rather thing power this off the HU.

I don't believe there is a factory amp. And you're right I should just get the 4ch amp. I'm not entirely sure how to wire that either. I assumed I would do a larger gauge hot wire and split it into two (one for each amp). have two separate grounding spots for each amp and then the rest should be easy because i would be doing my own wiring to the speakers instead of using the stock lines.
 

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I don't believe there is a factory amp. And you're right I should just get the 4ch amp. I'm not entirely sure how to wire that either. I assumed I would do a larger gauge hot wire and split it into two (one for each amp). have two separate grounding spots for each amp and then the rest should be easy because i would be doing my own wiring to the speakers instead of using the stock lines.
You would use a fused distribution block to split the current power wire (assuming it appropriately sized) to each amp. Then ground to the SAME location. Using a unfused distro for ground is fine if you want but not necessary.

Speaker wire would be some 16 gauge run from the 4ch to each speaker. If you have passive crossovers than you need to decide where to install them (by the amps or in the doors or kick panels, etc). Just make sure you buy OFC wire for everything and keep everything tidy.

If you're new to this check out some build logs or youtube vids for install ideas.
 

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some quick google searching
 

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I tried connecting both lines into the crossover input (this input only has 1 set of +&-) and then of course for the 2 outputs I connected my new woofer and tweeter. I noticed that the woofer wasn't being powered well. I connected the stock woofer again and it was much louder and more responsive.

Did I connect them wrong or is it because I need an amp sending the approximate 100 watts RMS to this new speaker?
I have a 2015 Rspec 3.8L , with factory Infinity stereo-with factory amp. (but I have bypassed it with aftermarket amps)
My car has only 1 line going from amp to 6.5 in lower door, then a wire from 6.5 to tweet (tweet has factory capacitor) I wish I had 2 speaker wires going into door, cause I will have to bust into the door molex and run a new line.(that sucks)

You said in your post that you "connecting both lines into the crossover input", you may need to double check that, as you should have 1 line from your HU going to the crossover Input, and 2 different lines of Output from crossovers, 1 line going to woofer and 1 line going to tweeter.

Also, check out this forum... it all about Gen Coupes >> www.gencoupe.com
 

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Thanks for posting my build log, I know for sure if you have the trim option with the upgraded sound system it comes with an amp but if not your probably using the head unit. I would scrap the idea of using factory wire. If your going to upgrade don't use factory anything after all what is the point of upgrading unless you address the entire build. If you have any functionality with your factory head unit integrated in your head unit I would not upgrade the head unit. You can go around it so you don't lose any functionality. You need an amp and with that comes all the fusing and new wiring requirements. I am only running the front stage. No need to put speakers in back of you. Tweeters and midrange need to be in the front stage not coming from behind to build a correct sound stage. This saves you money as well, no need for the amp and speakers. 4 channel best if your doing an active crossover for the front stage. You can get away with 2 channel if your using passive crossovers but then use another 2 channels for Mid bass. The only issue is how much power are you sending to your mid bass, your tweeters and mid does not need too much 75 watts is enough, 110 to 150 is ideal
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
How is the headunit wired into this factory system? Is there a factory amp between the aftermarket HU and the speakers?

You've invested this much into the system, I would just run a 4 ch amp rather thing power this off the HU.
Thanks for posting my build log, I know for sure if you have the trim option with the upgraded sound system it comes with an amp but if not your probably using the head unit. I would scrap the idea of using factory wire. If your going to upgrade don't use factory anything after all what is the point of upgrading unless you address the entire build. If you have any functionality with your factory head unit integrated in your head unit I would not upgrade the head unit. You can go around it so you don't lose any functionality. You need an amp and with that comes all the fusing and new wiring requirements. I am only running the front stage. No need to put speakers in back of you. Tweeters and midrange need to be in the front stage not coming from behind to build a correct sound stage. This saves you money as well, no need for the amp and speakers. 4 channel best if your doing an active crossover for the front stage. You can get away with 2 channel if your using passive crossovers but then use another 2 channels for Mid bass. The only issue is how much power are you sending to your mid bass, your tweeters and mid does not need too much 75 watts is enough, 110 to 150 is ideal

So for the back I should just do some smaller size woofers?
 

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Tweeters need less than 10 watts, factory wiring is perfectly acceptable for most installs, and I would ditch rear speakers completely.

Music requires far less power than people will have you believe, a well made 50 watt per channel amp will do well. You can spend more for more power, but it’s not completely necessary.
 

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Skip the back, I could sell you my factory if you really want them, your going to have to amplify them and that takes away from money you could spend on Mid bass or other areas of your build
 

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Not sue if you are referring to sub or midbass when you say woofers. Depending on how much bass you want and where you want to place them would either be in the truck or on the back deck where there is a place for a sub. I even have my stock sub that I could sell you if you wanted it
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Not sue if you are referring to sub or midbass when you say woofers. Depending on how much bass you want and where you want to place them would either be in the truck or on the back deck where there is a place for a sub. I even have my stock sub that I could sell you if you wanted it
I was referring to mid-bass
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have a 2015 Rspec 3.8L , with factory Infinity stereo-with factory amp. (but I have bypassed it with aftermarket amps)
My car has only 1 line going from amp to 6.5 in lower door, then a wire from 6.5 to tweet (tweet has factory capacitor) I wish I had 2 speaker wires going into door, cause I will have to bust into the door molex and run a new line.(that sucks)

You said in your post that you "connecting both lines into the crossover input", you may need to double check that, as you should have 1 line from your HU going to the crossover Input, and 2 different lines of Output from crossovers, 1 line going to woofer and 1 line going to tweeter.

Also, check out this forum... it all about Gen Coupes >> www.gencoupe.com
Thanks I did check out that website quite a few times over the years. Couldn't find what I was looking for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Tweeters need less than 10 watts, factory wiring is perfectly acceptable for most installs, and I would ditch rear speakers completely.

Music requires far less power than people will have you believe, a well made 50 watt per channel amp will do well. You can spend more for more power, but it’s not completely necessary.
Yes, my goal for this build is to eliminate the distortion when I turn up the volume to my liking and to increase my mid-bass quality because it's heavily lacking in my current setup. I have highs and bass but nothing in the middle. Kills any song that has a rolling bass drop. I guess i'm just trying to increase versatility with my setup. Money isn't a huge issue. I won't be spending a lot on competition level equipment.
 

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Check out the Pioneer 4 channel. Solid and has done great in dyno testing all over the place and is a cheaper. If you can find the Pioneer GM-8604 then go for it. The new model is a Pioneer GM-D8704 and it is 100x4 RMS


This is what the 8604 did on dyno. The new one is just as good from what people have said.

 

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I am replacing the stock speakers in the front with mid bass drivers that will be going in the doors, I like the idea of having mid bass up front. I am putting in a HAT Legatia L8 SE in the doors.

Its pretty tricky getting the speaker wire through the Molex so I would create a pod for the tweeter and mid up on the A pillar vs the door
 
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