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Hey guys (and gals)

A couple of days ago I got an email from Wirecare.com with a new wire connector product that looks interesting. I haven't looked into it too much but figured I'd share the link here and let anyone interested in them be their own judge.

Offhand, I might get a couple of them so I can simply unclip my kick panels and pull the whole things out at one time - using the gold plated, 14-16ga versions - possible with boots.

Here is the link: Deutsch DT

And here is a quick pic:


There've been a few different conversations on here about suitable connectors for speaker wires and other wires in the car environment, so rather than reply to each thread, I'm just posting this here under a new topic.

What do you all think?

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Hey guys (and gals)

A couple of days ago I got an email from Wirecare.com with a new wire connector product that looks interesting. I haven't looked into it too much but figured I'd share the link here and let anyone interested in them be their own judge.

Offhand, I might get a couple of them so I can simply unclip my kick panels and pull the whole things out at one time - using the gold plated, 14-16ga versions - possible with boots.

Here is the link: Deutsch DT

And here is a quick pic:


There've been a few different conversations on here about suitable connectors for speaker wires and other wires in the car environment, so rather than reply to each thread, I'm just posting this here under a new topic.

What do you all think?

Less
i see them on the engines i work on at work. there very small and i dont think they would be to good.
 

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when I worked as an electrical installer for a firetruck manufacturer we used these types of connectors all of the time due to nfpa compliance. I don't really care for them but they work well
 

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I thought I was the only one who used Deans!!!! Nice. I wish they made a monster sized one that we could use for main power/ground.
 

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I thought I was the only one who used Deans!!!! Nice. I wish they made a monster sized one that we could use for main power/ground.
Have you tried writing (not emailing) the CEO of the company with a product suggestion? I have had it work before. They may have no idea there is a car audio market.
 

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I love WS deans i use it on my RC cars, very good engagement and low resistance. I don't care much for the molex type ones, I find in my work they aren't very good for transferring high speed signals....however having said that this may not apply...
 

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I tried contacting Dean's to buy in bulk for my personal competition cars and they would not even accomodate that, so I doubt they are going to start building custom.

The connectios the OP posted are the same that BMW uses on many new vehicles. They are AWESOME!
 

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HELP!

Is there some secret method to getting those PowerPole connectors together? Seems like I need 3 hands and it has to be perfect the first time, otherwise I'm screwed. Is there a tool or something I'm missing, because these connectors have been a NIGHTMARE for me to assemble today.

I bought them to replace the Molex connectors I used previously, but if these are honestly this much of a PITA I'm not using them again.
 

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What are you having problems with? Getting the contact into the shell?
Yup. I can usually get the contact in most of the way on the first push, but getting it that last 1/32 of an inch is a pain. Either the contact goes all the way into the shell and rests correctly over the spring lip on the first try, or it doesn't go all the way in and I have to try to press on the back of the contact with a flat-head on one side, and push down on the spring clip on the other side. It's that routine that has the tips of my fingers raw right now.
 

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Get it lined up and partially in, push the rest of it in from the rear with a small screwdriver or even a small nail. Generally the wire I'm using on those pretty much maxes out the pin so the wire is stiff enough to get the job done.

Once it's together, see the hole for a pin to keep it from coming apart? A paper Q-tip stick cut to length slips right in and stays. I try to stay away from metal roll-pins in those.
 

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Get it lined up and partially in, push the rest of it in from the rear with a small screwdriver or even a small nail. Generally the wire I'm using on those pretty much maxes out the pin so the wire is stiff enough to get the job done. QUOTE]

Maybe that's my problem. The wiring I'm using is Dayton 16 ga, and it only fills about 0.5-0.75% of the connector, so the wire actually bends if I try to push on that. The insulation is the same O.D. as the connector though, which is why it is not easy to get a screwdriver to stay on the metal connector as I'm pushing.
I almost thought of making a pushing tool that was basically a flat-head screwdriver bent into a half-moon shape so it might sit on the contact better as I'm pressing.
 

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Get it lined up and partially in, push the rest of it in from the rear with a small screwdriver or even a small nail. Generally the wire I'm using on those pretty much maxes out the pin so the wire is stiff enough to get the job done.
Maybe that's my problem. The wiring I'm using is Dayton 16 ga, and it only fills about 0.5-0.75% of the connector, so the wire actually bends if I try to push on that. The insulation is the same O.D. as the connector though, which is why it is not easy to get a screwdriver to stay on the metal connector as I'm pushing.
I almost thought of making a pushing tool that was basically a flat-head screwdriver bent into a half-moon shape so it might sit on the contact better as I'm pressing.
 
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