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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I built a ~.25cf enclosure to test possible mounting positions for my midbass. Most of the locations I tried had much better phase behavior then the door install, even when I positioned it about where the door midbass is. This is completely surprising especially when the enclosure is right where the midbass would be stock in the door.
When I sound deadened I used 3 layers of noico 80mil to cover the larger holes with 2 layers on the smaller holes. I also used noico 150mil to decouple the door card. When I measured the stock location the response was horrendous. I know it’s very difficult to fully deaden the doors but I used a lot of material, is this normal? Kick panels are not an option because of electrical components in them. The response was very useable in the enclosure but I obviously don’t want enclosures in the way of my feet.
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stock door mounting

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As you just found out, a proper midbass enclosure mounted in, or on, the door will always give a better response then a door mounted midbass.
IMO, it has to do with the predictability of the relationship between driver and enclosure response versus the unpredictabilty of the door acting on the driver parameters. That and it also reduces both inaudible and audible distortion caused by vibration of the door and door components, no matter how well deaden the door.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I thought a perfect audio system would be easy in a car😂 I’ll brainstorm on how to make a clean door enclosure.
 

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LOL...You want clean ??

Be sure to check out some of member LBAudio's door enclosures --


You'll have to sort through his build posts and pics to find the door enclosures cause he also does AWESOME pillar mounts, but his ported door enclosures are def inspiring !!!

NOT that there is anything wrong with doing a simple box like you already did and then cutting htrough the panel to mount your box to the door, but it just wont look as nice like these --




Here is a single pic of his to get your creative juices started --

Vehicle door Vehicle Car Automotive exterior City car
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks! I’m coming along really well with my fabrication skills, I should be able to do something nice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
How would 4 of the same midbass drivers in each of the doors compare to just 2 in the front sealed? The mini dsp 12 channel has interested me lately. Of course we’re talking $1,000 for new dsp and 4 new midbass drivers vs $50 for some more resin and my time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I suppose it would be an expensive roll of the dice but opinions would be interesting
 

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Dual ported will likely be challenging enough to build and will provide plenty of midbass.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Dual ported will likely be challenging enough to build and will provide plenty of midbass.
I will be sticking with sealed enclosures all but certainly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I meant one sealed midbass per door. I must have not wrote that clearly sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
And one in each door might smooth the nulls, just a thought to keep me from needing to tear up the doors
 

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I'm a big fan of door boxes in fact I'm in the middle of building a couple fairly complicated ones right now.I've been meaning to start a thread on them for some time now. No matter how much dynamat, foam or whatever else I put in the doors the mid bass always sounded like ass with all that metal reverberating. This will be my 3rd vehicle that I've built boxes for. I put in the biggest drivers I can fit which usually means the box is "too small" so I add aperiodic ports, although even without this they can work well (when I start the trhead I'll find the link to Patrick Bateman's thread about "really tiny boxes").

These might be 0.3 ft3 for 9.5" Satori woofers. I did a quick rough test with them sealed, a 2"*2.5" open hole, and that same hole plugged up with fiberglass insulation. The REW measurments were inconclusive as I was in a hurry, but to my ears the aperiodic port sounded the best, which was also my experience with the last set I built.

Most people use some fiberglassing to make it easier but I hate that stuff and use it as sparingly as possible. Although building the door boxes is hard (the door metal is never flat) by far the hardest part is making them look good if you have a nice car. We'll see how these turn out,

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I was thinking of using the passenger side footwell under the glovebox for a midbass sealed box.

Or under / behind the front seats.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I was thinking of using the passenger side footwell under the glovebox for a midbass sealed box.

Or under / behind the front seats.


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I was using a Dayton 10ho44 sealed up in the passenger footwell recently but it was to save room in the boot, I’ve just recently installed a Dayton UM12 IB in the cargo floor and love it. When running the up front sub the midbass drivers only played down to like 150 ish. It was a great setup except the foot space gone and lacking sub 40hz. It’s tempting to rum both but I’m lacking the dsp channel.
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Oh, and I tried and tried to run the 10ho over ~150ish. Depending on song the stage definitely pulled to the passenger side. Erykah Badu was the absolute worst with bass guitar constantly pulling the stage. Lil Wayne wasn’t so bad 😉 I didn’t have much luck running higher in the midbass frequencies and the Dayton ho supposedly has low distortion so I don’t think the harmonics were too much to blame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
I'm a big fan of door boxes in fact I'm in the middle of building a couple fairly complicated ones right now.I've been meaning to start a thread on them for some time now. No matter how much dynamat, foam or whatever else I put in the doors the mid bass always sounded like ass with all that metal reverberating. This will be my 3rd vehicle that I've built boxes for. I put in the biggest drivers I can fit which usually means the box is "too small" so I add aperiodic ports, although even without this they can work well (when I start the trhead I'll find the link to Patrick Bateman's thread about "really tiny boxes").

These might be 0.3 ft3 for 9.5" Satori woofers. I did a quick rough test with them sealed, a 2"*2.5" open hole, and that same hole plugged up with fiberglass insulation. The REW measurments were inconclusive as I was in a hurry, but to my ears the aperiodic port sounded the best, which was also my experience with the last set I built.

Most people use some fiberglassing to make it easier but I hate that stuff and use it as sparingly as possible. Although building the door boxes is hard (the door metal is never flat) by far the hardest part is making them look good if you have a nice car. We'll see how these turn out,

View attachment 283598 View attachment 283601 View attachment 283599 View attachment 283600
I want to avoid making door enclosures to the point of considering mounting some 6-8” woofers IB in the front of the footwells 🤷🏼‍♂️
But I think I can build out the stock woofer bulge with glass, I actually enjoy glassing,
until the sanding and grinding part...
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I can probably get around .2cf in this stock area and secure the enclosure to the door metal. The door would be braced accordingly. I would even consider an a-perodic vent to the inner door if I was small on enclosure volume. The window switches would remain untouched and it would just be built out below. I can finish with stock looking textured grey vinyl. Ported seems too permanent but maybe a passive radiator would be fun and allow tuning changes. Maybe stout 6.5 driver over a 8” pr🤔
 

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I went sealed 15L door enclosures out of wood for a 8" mid-bass driver in each door and for my car it was the best acoustic decision ever. No comparison in audio performance compared to a direct door mounted speaker. It required a leap of faith and all that but totally worth it :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Another idea is a band pass enclosure behind the front seats with the port running along the side of the seats firing towards the footwells.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
I’m just think tanking ideas, I have gotten decent with fiberglass, perhaps a layer or two formed against the door metal under the door skin? If the inner door was braced and a glass shell was screwed on and sealed off, might that allow a standard door mounting keeping the stock look? This approach is well within my skill set, is non permanent and can be thickened with additional layers depending on what is needed and where. I think the curves and dips would add to the rigidity. If I wasn’t clear enough, a baffle that completely spans the entire door under the card.
 
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