DiyMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner

21 - 22 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,343 Posts
Much thanks to both of you. This has been a very interesting discussion. I am hoping for a lot of cabin gain then Although I've heard that relatively speaking, F150 Supercabs in particular, kind of suck for bass gain. It might have something to do with the fact that my cabin, unlike a Supercrew cab, has no mid-pillars so the cab tends to flex in the middle like a big wicker basket

But again, as I said, I am going to go ahead and input all the info for both my Dayton 15"s as well as my NVX 10"s so I can get a better idea. Again, if it says these are at least a little quieter, then I'll be okay with all of this. Well, I'm going to model the 15"s in an Isobaric setup, just as they are at the moment.... And I guess how they were in the standard tuned ported enclosure before. If the 18"s were only "as loud" as that was, but deeper, and more musical, I'd be okay with that too.
It really shouldn't be that bad, I mean I can meter near 150 db in an 88 IROC with 2 sealed 12's, you should be able to get up near there, your truck has to be more rigid than my car. Like I said earlier, that 3 cube box looks pretty good.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,534 Posts
... An output of 120dB is incredibly loud. Typical conversation is around 60dB, so for a stereo to play conversation levels it requires less than a single watt. From this chart, to acheive the volume of a "heavy truck" an average speaker would need 1 watt.
dB(A) is for normal stuff.
dB(C) is for subwoofers and lower frequency stuff.

So the numbers go higher for lower frequencies to sound the same in loudness.
 
21 - 22 of 22 Posts
Top