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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

Mainly posting so that I can get my post-count high enough to send PM's to shop components in the classifieds, btu while I'm at it I figure I should ask some advice.

Building a system for a 1991 BMW 325 convertible. This is the second to last year of the old boxy-looking E30 generation, not the newer E36, E46, E9x cars...

I'm mainly interested in sound quality over boom. Bass needs to be tight, highs clear, mids warm, if that makes sense. I also want to keep the car as stock looking as possible given that it's in nice shape and basically a classic at this point.

Planning this setup right now:
1. Kenwood KIV-BT901 HU

2. Front 5.25" components in stock location: Focal access line seems to be a good price/performance combination at ~$200. Are there other similarly priced 5.25" components that I should look at? Used is fine if the quality is better.

3. Sub: I will need a custom box, since there is only 10.5" space underneath the "top storage" compartment. Planning to get 2 JL 8w3v3's and build a slot loaded box using the JL recommended box dimensions.

3. Amp(s): I'm thinking about 2 directions on this. Either a single 3-channel amp like a DLS CA31, which hopefully I can find used for $250 or less, or maybe a used Audison SRx3 if the price is right. On the other hand, I'm looking on the classifieds right now at an original Soundstream D200ii, or perhaps an older Rubicon 2 channel for the components, to which I would have to add a second amp for the sub, maybe a used JL mono class-D amp or something.

4. Rear speakers: None. If I get some, I will just drive them with the HU. I've always been a big fan of front soundstage, and have never had much use for rear spkrs unless talking about surround sound.

Comments? Recs on the front speakers or amp questions? Anyone dislike the Kenwood HU?

Thanks in advance!
--CK
 

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only thing I would change is to try and get bigger front speakers in there. alot of the time you can wiggle 6.5inchers in the 5.25" location. rest looks good.

good luck on the post count ;)
 

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I agree with minbari, go with 6.5's in the doors if they'll fit. I'm not a fan of JL's subs (never could get that tight musical quality), but their XD and HD amps are the real deal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the quick replies!

I've read that the kick panels in my car only fit a very limited size speaker, but I haven't taken them apart yet to check. If I can fit 6.5's, then sure I'll go that route.

Looking around, I see a bunch of DLS speakers in my price range. I listened to the Focals at a store, compared directly to some RF and high-end Alpine component sets, and I liked the focals better. Seemed cleaner with better dynamics, if a bit bright.

I haven't heard the DLS components before, but the brand name is good. Would anyone recommend midrange DLS components over the low-end focals for a similar price?

Also, if not the JL 8", what's a good reasonably priced 8" for good SQ w/ tight bass?

Lastly, if I run 2 250W RMS subs in parallel (going to 2ohm), I assume that means I need an amp that can deliver 500W at 2ohms to stick near the RMS rating?

Thanks!
--CK
 

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Also, if not the JL 8", what's a good reasonably priced 8" for good SQ w/ tight bass?
I'm going with 4x Alpine SWR-823D myself (purchasing them tomorrow! :D ). Flat BL curve, low mass, shorting rings, and doesnt need a huge enclosure. I haven't heard them yet, but I've read some great things over in the review thread.
 

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Lastly, if I run 2 250W RMS subs in parallel (going to 2ohm), I assume that means I need an amp that can deliver 500W at 2ohms to stick near the RMS rating?

Thanks!
--CK
that is the way to go, i assume this is a mono bass amp? most mono amps produce rated power at 1 ohm, so you might want to look at (2) 4ohm DVC, then will wire down to 1 ohm.
or
1) get a 250w x 2 amplifier and get (2) 2ohm dvc or (2) 4ohm single coil subs and run it at 4 ohms.
2) get a 250W x 2 amplifier and get (2) 4ohm DVC and run the amplifier @ 2 ohm.

many different ways to skin this cat and they all work :p
 
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