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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, car audio experts (that title Excludes me).
I'm new here, but I Think this is an "advanced" question?
My 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander XLS came with a very nice Stock sound system:
a 650-watt Rockford Fosgate system with eight speakers and a 10-inch subwoofer.
It also has a new problem: a constant drain on the battery:
a 5-month-old EverStart Maxx-24F lead acid unit with 750 CCA from Walmart.

The vehicle is rarely driven, sometimes sitting parked for 10 to 12 days.
Then, when I open the door, the dash lights won't even come on.
Of course, Some electronics are a drain on the battery at ALL times.
I ran a test, trying to locate the source of the drain, as per the post at:
autoforums.carjunky.com/Automotive_Repair_C1/Electrical_and_Wiring_F6/HOW_TO_FIND_PARASITIC_DRAINS_ON_THE_BATTERY_P186624/]HOW TO FIND PARASITIC DRAINS ON THE BATTERY - Automotive Wiring and Electrical
That post mentions that any drain above 50 mA is a problem.

Testing all the fuses, I found that #31 (Audio Amplifier) draws 19.9 mA.
I Really Doubt that power draw is OK, when parked. But I Like This Stereo! It Sounds Nice!
Crap. OK, HOW can I find a short in that stereo system? Any ideas?

OR, is that a Normal draw for a fairly nice audio system, when the car is parked?

Many Thanks, people.
Mark
 

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The only thing on the audio side that needs power after you turn the key off is the memory wire to the head unit ,to keep all the radio stations intact but that draws only milliamps
hardly anything at all
all your amplifiers and all that stuff should be completely off ,dead ,no current ,no amperage
if they are Using any power, then someone has it wired to where the amps are staying on even when the key is off
They may have it on a constant power line/fuse


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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply, Carl, but this system came Stock with the vehicle.
AND it's a New problem. I've owned the vehicle three years, no problems until now.
I Certainly did not change any of the wiring / stuff.
And it IS still only a 19.9 milliamp drain. Not multiple amps.
Regardless, this ain't normal? OK, How can I FIND the problem?
How to troubleshoot a power drain by the audio system? :confused:
Any clues?
Thanks.
 

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Ok
There is a diode in the alt that can go bad and pull a drain on the battery and also one of the ecu’s going bad could do this
If you know how to work in cars try this
There’s a plug and I large wire in the alternator, unplug them both at the alternator, now check it the test light that you hook up the the unplugged ground cable of the battery and hook one end of the test light to the ground cable and the ground of the battery, if the test light is off, then the alternator is the problem, if the light is on then start unplugging fuses until the test light goes out. Then you found your drain

Unhook the ground cable off of the battery
Use test light in between the ground cable on the battery and if the light is lit up that tells you that you have something that is on the most likely at TCU or the alternator but the diode in the alternator is what stops current from back feeding through it and draining the battery


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Discussion Starter #5
Well, thanks for the suggestion, Carl, but
I just looked at the alternator in the vehicle,
and decided that I ain't gonna' take any of that apart. :cool:
Years ago, I rebuilt engines, but there's just too much crap under the hood
nowadays for me to anything more than change the oil. I still do that.
Thanks, though.
 

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...
And it IS still only a 19.9 milliamp drain. Not multiple amps.
Regardless, this ain't normal? ...
...
Is there another vehicle you have access to?
I would think that it would also be drawing 10-20mA

(Which over 24 hours is 1/2ahr.)

It is also possible that the new battery is not good.
If the alternator had a fried diode, then it should be draining the battery, but one would have to disconnect it to measure it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the input, Holmz.
Nope, I have no access to another vehicle of the same Year / Make / Model.
I'm guessing THAT is what would be needed for your comparison test.

Already got a new replacement battery from WallyWorld.
There's still a constant draw, but I've jury-rigged a solution to the problem:
Check the battery every few days, and when it gets down to 11 VDC,
then hook up a trickle-charger (14 VDC, 700 mA) overnight.
Done that once so far, and that brought it back up to 12.4 VDC.
All is well, me thinks.

Anybody has a wiring diagram / schematic for a 2007 Mitsu Outlander XLS?
I'm thinking that the Audio system has a hidden power-draw somewhere.
With a clear diagram, I Might be able to find a problem. :surprised:

I really don't want to try messing with the alternator connections.

Thanks.
 

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$30-50 dollar fix. Wire in a battery isolator to open the circuit (main power wire feed to your amplifiers) when the vehicle is off. When you start the vehicle the isolator closes and your amps regain power. Easy peezy, I bought mine from sonic/amazon
 

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Thanks for the input, Holmz.
Nope, I have no access to another vehicle of the same Year / Make / Model.
I'm guessing THAT is what would be needed for your comparison test.
...
I already know that at least 3-4 vehicles I have had draw 10-20 mA.


...
Already got a new replacement battery from WallyWorld.
There's still a constant draw, but I've jury-rigged a solution to the problem:
Check the battery every few days, and when it gets down to 11 VDC,
then hook up a trickle-charger (14 VDC, 700 mA) overnight.
Done that once so far, and that brought it back up to 12.4 VDC.
All is well, me thinks.

Anybody has a wiring diagram / schematic for a 2007 Mitsu Outlander XLS?
I'm thinking that the Audio system has a hidden power-draw somewhere.
With a clear diagram, I Might be able to find a problem. :surprised:

I really don't want to try messing with the alternator connections.

Thanks.
First i would do the following.

1) when you install the new battery note if there are any big sparks when disconnecting the power or ground
1b) if no sparks, then measure the current draw on either the ground or positive.

2) charge up the old battery

3) once a day measure the voltage of both the old battery and the new on in the car.

I am suspecting that the old battery is just bad... but the voltage menasuremnet will go a ways towards knowing.
 

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Or you could stop playing around and buy an isolator, aka relay, aka normally open contactor, and fix the problem
While I get ^it^, it only would stop the drain if the draining was more than the 20mA.

The OP could just disconnect the battery and see if it starts up in 10 days when he hooks the battery back up.
 

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I have a 2008 Mitsubishi Lancer GTS with what seems to be the same Rockford Fosgate sound system you have. I've owned the car over 3 years. About 6 months ago my battery started dying. I replaced the battery thinking it would fix it even though the battery was 2 years old. Finally I got a new battery thinking possibly I had a bad battery and I had the exact same issues. My car would be dead after sitting for 2-3 days. It seems this sound system eventually causes some kind of drain. I literally know nothing about vehicles, but I have been Googling my issue for months and have been coming across other people experiencing the same issue. For now, I have simply removed the fuse until I can figure out a better fix. I really like the sound system myself just like you do. Hopefully you've had some luck with yours Mark!


Hello, car audio experts (that title Excludes me).
I'm new here, but I Think this is an "advanced" question?
My 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander XLS came with a very nice Stock sound system:
a 650-watt Rockford Fosgate system with eight speakers and a 10-inch subwoofer.
It also has a new problem: a constant drain on the battery:
a 5-month-old EverStart Maxx-24F lead acid unit with 750 CCA from Walmart.

The vehicle is rarely driven, sometimes sitting parked for 10 to 12 days.
Then, when I open the door, the dash lights won't even come on.
Of course, Some electronics are a drain on the battery at ALL times.
I ran a test, trying to locate the source of the drain, as per the post at:
autoforums.carjunky.com/Automotive_Repair_C1/Electrical_and_Wiring_F6/HOW_TO_FIND_PARASITIC_DRAINS_ON_THE_BATTERY_P186624/]HOW TO FIND PARASITIC DRAINS ON THE BATTERY - Automotive Wiring and Electrical
That post mentions that any drain above 50 mA is a problem.

Testing all the fuses, I found that #31 (Audio Amplifier) draws 19.9 mA.
I Really Doubt that power draw is OK, when parked. But I Like This Stereo! It Sounds Nice!
Crap. OK, HOW can I find a short in that stereo system? Any ideas?

OR, is that a Normal draw for a fairly nice audio system, when the car is parked?

Many Thanks, people.
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I finally Did find the problem, LeeLee.
There's an aftermarket DVD player under the shotgun seat, so the kids can watch a movie in the back seats.
I've NEVER used it, but somehow, it got turned on, and was a power drain.
I disconnected the power lines to it, and. . . voila. No more problem.
Good luck finding your problem.
Mark2485
 

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I finally Did find the problem, LeeLee.
There's an aftermarket DVD player under the shotgun seat, so the kids can watch a movie in the back seats.
I've NEVER used it, but somehow, it got turned on, and was a power drain.
I disconnected the power lines to it, and. . . voila. No more problem.
Good luck finding your problem.
Mark2485
How did you find it... with eyes, or with a DMM?
 

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Hello, car audio experts (that title Excludes me).
I'm new here, but I Think this is an "advanced" question?
My 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander XLS came with a very nice Stock sound system:
a 650-watt Rockford Fosgate system with eight speakers and a 10-inch subwoofer.
It also has a new problem: a constant drain on the battery:
a 5-month-old EverStart Maxx-24F lead acid unit with 750 CCA from Walmart.

The vehicle is rarely driven, sometimes sitting parked for 10 to 12 days.
Then, when I open the door, the dash lights won't even come on.
Of course, Some electronics are a drain on the battery at ALL times.
I ran a test, trying to locate the source of the drain, as per the post at:
autoforums.carjunky.com/Automotive_Repair_C1/Electrical_and_Wiring_F6/HOW_TO_FIND_PARASITIC_DRAINS_ON_THE_BATTERY_P186624/]HOW TO FIND PARASITIC DRAINS ON THE BATTERY - Automotive Wiring and Electrical
That post mentions that any drain above 50 mA is a problem.

Testing all the fuses, I found that #31 (Audio Amplifier) draws 19.9 mA.
I Really Doubt that power draw is OK, when parked. But I Like This Stereo! It Sounds Nice!
Crap. OK, HOW can I find a short in that stereo system? Any ideas?

OR, is that a Normal draw for a fairly nice audio system, when the car is parked?

Many Thanks, people.
Mark
To be honest I use very hi fi audio in my car and never have I ever experienced any battery draining issue for my audio system. I am not a battery expert to be honest but I do not think our car audio system takes so much of a battery. We always use high intensity light for high way and if those do not harm the battery then audio system wont.
 
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