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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I just got a new car and can't find a lot of resources on how to connect the AudioControl LC2i line out converter to a factory system. Does this pic sum it up? I drew it in MS Paint.

Ideally I'd use wire splice connectors to tap into the speaker wires. What I'm really not sure about is the lack of a 'Remote In' on the LC2i and what the drawbacks to that are... I can see there being some crappy delay when the subs come in when going from silence to music with a lot of bass... But really can't base that on experience, and I really want to avoid going behind the radio if I can because it's a brand new car.

It'd be used exclusively for bass, hooked up to a 1500 RMS monoblock amp. The only other concern is how much power would be pumped into my little LOC since it'd be hooked to the same terminal on the battery as the amp that's sucking 3000 mega/max watts... But me ain't no battery wizard, as I have little understanding of how all that stuff works.



Full-sized image here:

https://s26.postimg.org/uz5085ggp/LC2i_Connect_Full_Bass_B.png
 

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That is how you connect it. The LC2i manual is very good. Hopefully your rear speakers are full range or at least have 20-80Hz playing through them. I would watch the signal sense turn on function. With many vehicles, opening the door, locking unlocking from remote, or other vehicle functions will make the LC2i and amp power up which can cause loud bursts of sound from the subs and/or drain the battery depending upon how long the audio gear stays on. I would try to find a retained accessory power (RAP) or worst case ignition wire to turn on the LC2i instead of signal sense. I would use signal sense as an absolute last resort.
 

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I agree with What... I've had this unit and the only thing I would add is a small fuse on the power line. I have Bluetooth in my car that triggers the system upon vehicle startup.This means your amp will be on even if not being used. I used a toggle switch and turn the unit on/off manually and didn't bother looking for a RAP. Works fine and now use the same setup for my DQ-61
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I would try to find a retained accessory power (RAP) or worst case ignition wire to turn on the LC2i instead of signal sense.
Sorry if this is way too noob-ish, but I've really only installed systems with aftermarket stereos so I don't know much about the internal wiring of cars. Based on the research I've done on RAPs, my car does have one. The windows roll down after the key is out but I noticed that the radio doesn't stay on. It's a 2016 Honda Civic LX Sedan. I assume it'd be good to connect to as long as it powers up when the car does, and not only when the key is taken out. All that being said, after some light Google searching I have no idea where I'd begin to look for it in my car. I'll try a little harder tonight when I have some time.

Also, I'm glad to hear that the manual is very good. Before I posted this thread I searched for it and only found a 2 page version that highlights features and gives a little warranty info.

Link to LC2i Manual on AudioControl's Website

I've had this unit and the only thing I would add is a small fuse on the power line.
Ah right, yeah. I forgot to add fuses for either power wire in the diagram. And yeah, the thought occurred to me that Bluetooth would be involved somehow. Glad to hear it helps and doesn't hurt the situation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Tag the cig lighter for your remote turn on. Donzo.
Dude I like it. Sounds like it'd work. I checked it and made sure it cuts off when the key is out and everything's good... I know some cars are weird and stay on if something's connected. There's just one more complication: I can only find one lighter in my Civic and eff if I know how to remove panels to get back there.

I'm not going to run into anything weird like having to connect an accessory in the lighter socket to get power am I?



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I guess connecting to the RAP wouldn't be necessary with my car because only the windows work on it... not the radio. If I did that I'd briefly have amp power with no stereo power.
 

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General rule of thumb is imports turn off with the car, domestics stay on all the time. Yes yes yes. There are exceptions or some vehicles have one of each. But the vast majority of the time, that's correct.

And no you won't have to have anything plugged in. That's straight accessory power behind there. No load-sensing smart circuitry witchcraft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I was looking at this and started to wonder if I could tap into power somewhere closer to the trunk rather than connecting all the way to the battery for the LC2i (dark blue in diagram). Is that possible?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Not sure what vehicle you have but some vehicles have a switched 12V power outlet in the cargo area.
It's a 2016 Honda Civic LX Sedan. Unfortunately there's no power in the trunk from what I can tell.

If you're suggesting I connect power in the trunk, and firebirdude suggested I connect to the cig lighter for a remote, could I not just connect the power and remote to the cig lighter?

I've never really understood or looked into internal wiring in cars so forgive me if that sounds dumb.
 

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Yep. Tap into 12V anywhere you want. As was said, an in-line fuse should be in place.

Most folks have the LC2i mounted somewhere close to their amplifier. Since the amplifier is connected directly to the battery, they tap in at the amp terminals.
 
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