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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I heard a shop owner saying you should use the same gauge on component installs for amp-crossover as crossover-speaker, I’ve always run 14 gauge from the amp to crossover and then 16 gauge for the crossover to speaker connection since it’s shorter, is this bad? This seems way too picky to me
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I only do it because the amp to crossover is a longer run, and 14 awg doesn’t fit my speaker terminal
 

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I heard a shop owner saying you should use the same gauge on component installs for amp-crossover as crossover-speaker, I’ve always run 14 gauge from the amp to crossover and then 16 gauge for the crossover to speaker connection since it’s shorter, is this bad? This seems way too picky to me
Oh, my... While I am certainly no expert, I can fairly confidently state that this is utter hogwash (IMHO, lol).
 

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For most components; 16awg is more than sufficient.

Don't worry about what the installer says... 14awg to the crossover, and then 16awg to the speakers will be fine.
 

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Really, why use 14 vs say 18? The size should be chosen based on length and power being used. Longer runs with more power need larger gauge wire and shorter runs with less power need less. So based on the limited information, I have no idea what you should do. If your crossover is close to your amp in the back, you might be able to actually use a smaller wire and you actually need larger wire to get to your speakers because they’re way up in the front. But in general I would think 16 gauge or even 18 gauge would be just fine for most installs.

WIRE
 

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The extent of how anal a person can be is astounding.
When i run subwoofer wire from amp to woofer, it has to be in one piece. I hate using any type of binding post. But when i happen to use a binding post the 2 runs of speaker wire must be cut from the same piece, and continue to go in the same direction they came off the roll. No logical reason for either, but thats just me.
 

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When i run subwoofer wire from amp to woofer, it has to be in one piece. I hate using any type of binding post. But when i happen to use a binding post the 2 runs of speaker wire must be cut from the same piece, and continue to go in the same direction they came off the roll. No logical reason for either, but thats just me.
Bravo! The first step toward recovery is admitting you have a problem. :D
 

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When i run subwoofer wire from amp to woofer, it has to be in one piece. I hate using any type of binding post. But when i happen to use a binding post the 2 runs of speaker wire must be cut from the same piece, and continue to go in the same direction they came off the roll. No logical reason for either, but thats just me.
That is way too close to being considered audiophile mumbo jumbo that is out of control. That’s how they end up paying $1000 for cryogenic speaker cable with the same electrical characteristics of lamp cord. Or don’t get me started on cable risers for 2-channel home listeners. Ughh. :D
 

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That is way too close to being considered audiophile mumbo jumbo that is out of control. That’s how they end up paying $1000 for cryogenic speaker cable with the same electrical characteristics of lamp cord. Or don’t get me started on cable risers for 2-channel home listeners. Ughh. :D
luckily i am too cheap for any of that and i don't have a desire to spend more than a few bucks on speaker wire, but i think i used to put green magic marker on my CD's in the 90's, but it was the 90's so i forget.:D
 

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I heard a shop owner saying you should use the same gauge on component installs for amp-crossover as crossover-speaker, I’ve always run 14 gauge from the amp to crossover and then 16 gauge for the crossover to speaker connection since it’s shorter, is this bad? This seems way too picky to me
I can't even pretend to know the perspective that the shop owner was coming from so without knowing his details, it's hard to say he hasn't run into a situation where that wasn't completely false. The bottom line is that the relevance of your wire gauge is specific to it's ability to carry adequately the amperage over the specified distance without noticeable loss at max volume. With that said, these distances are short enough that loss is barely measurable, if at all. Current loss formulas are plentiful on the net but you'll find it's irrelevant to bother with once you run a few calculations.

14 all the way, meh just fine.
16 all the way, meh just fine.
14 in/16 out, meh just fine.
18 all the way, meh just maybe for OEM. lol...
 

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Really, why use 14 vs say 18?
...
WIRE
Damping factor.
The rests is all magic and even the damping factor is getting towards magic.

I am using Magami wire which is 13 or 14 ga. and probably overkill... but damping factor would be the only non BS explanation of why.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So I ran 14 all around like he suggested but I couldn’t fit the 14 awg into my speaker terminals so I cut a bit of strands off around the edges to make it fit so I could solder it, does this defeat the purpose of higher gauge wire? Lol
 

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So I ran 14 all around like he suggested but I couldn’t fit the 14 awg into my speaker terminals so I cut a bit of strands off around the edges to make it fit so I could solder it, does this defeat the purpose of higher gauge wire? Lol
no, the reason you use larger gauge is because over a certain length you want the resistance to remain low for how much current you are passing across it.

example, you can run ALOT more current through a 1" section of 14 ga wire than you can a 50ft section.
 

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Damping factor.
The rests is all magic and even the damping factor is getting towards magic.

I am using Magami wire which is 13 or 14 ga. and probably overkill... but damping factor would be the only non BS explanation of why.
Right but really that boils down to wire resistance, which means length. And really, damping factor isn’t usually an issue for today’s amplifiers, especially for regular speakers. Subs are where damping factor makes the most difference and where wire size can be increased. I just did some testing of the JL 12TW3 and the SI BM mkV and was happy both handled 10 gauge wire ferrules.
 

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Right but really that boils down to wire resistance, which means length. And really, damping factor isn’t usually an issue for today’s amplifiers, especially for regular speakers. Subs are where damping factor makes the most difference and where wire size can be increased. I just did some testing of the JL 12TW3 and the SI BM mkV and was happy both handled 10 gauge wire ferrules.
Correct.

I just used the Magami 13ga wire because I liked the look of it.
And they seem totally beyond overkill when going to a tweeter.

But having the amps nearer the speakers is theoretically better, and bigger wires are also better in theory...
However the realities of car realestate require some practicality in come into play, as do wires that are flexible enough to not strain the speaker connectors into breaking off.
 

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So you’re into overkill? Here, here! All of my XLR cables for my microphone and preamp are Mogami Gold and I’ve used their stuff for DIY RCAs. Good stuff. And I usually go much larger than necessary and do like the OP to strip a little wire if needed to get it to fit.
 
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