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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
With the DSP, you should be running the HU in "standard" mode, and not "Network" mode ... in case you aren't already. That 1.25k @ 6dB high pass is there as a protection for the tweeters, since in Network Mode, only tweeters would be connected to those channels.

I ran mine in Network mode for years, and only recently switched it over to Standard after installing the Helix DSP.

For my routing, I have the front signals splitting to the mids and the tweeters in the DSP, and I have the rear signal going to my rear fills. And of course, sub to sub.

I did it this way so I could maintain fade/balance control at the HU, but after installing the Conductor remote control for the Helix (which allows for rear channel attenuation), I really don't need the fade controls in the HU afterall. My install is already finalized though, will all cables neatly tucked and ran through the car; so I didn't see a reason to not use all 3 pairs of RCAs. If you are still planning the final run of cables ... and the 2600NEX has a full range signal on one set of RCAs ... then you could absolutely get away with just running one pair from the HU to the DSP (y)
Really? I still have mine run in Network, didn't realize there was a need to switch it over. But if there is, I'll switch it.

I just Googled that remote, very nice! I bet that's slick. I just installed the DRC-200 last week and I love it. I'd rather have the 205 with the incorporated LED, but it's hard to justify that expense when I still need basic audio equipment.

I'm jealous that your install is complete. Any pictures of the final setup?

I'm trying to find a way to secure my amps down so they're a little more theft resistant, but haven't had any grand ideas on how to do it yet. Trying to avoid paying someone to do it for me. Toying with the idea of using steel cable to limit smash-and-grabs.
 

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Really? I still have mine run in Network, didn't realize there was a need to switch it over. But if there is, I'll switch it.
Well, one reason would be for test tone gain setting. If the highs have a fixed 1.25k high pass, then playing a 1k test tone will give you bad readings for setting gains on the amp channels which the tweeters will connect. Plus, if you hook up the 6.5" speakers in the sound bar, you can connect them to the rear channels of the HU in standard mode and have fader control.

I just Googled that remote, very nice! I bet that's slick. I just installed the DRC-200 last week and I love it. I'd rather have the 205 with the incorporated LED, but it's hard to justify that expense when I still need basic audio equipment.
I debated between the Director and the Conductor, and went with the Conductor because of it's small form factor, and how well it integrated with my interior. It being cheaper than the Director was a plus too :)

I'm jealous that your install is complete. Any pictures of the final setup?

I'm trying to find a way to secure my amps down so they're a little more theft resistant, but haven't had any grand ideas on how to do it yet. Trying to avoid paying someone to do it for me. Toying with the idea of using steel cable to limit smash-and-grabs.
Pictures, did someone say "pictures"? LOL! I have a few ...

I have a Pro-Clip mount for my iPhone right next to the 80PRS HU, since I play most of my music from my phone.

Car Vehicle Speedometer Gear shift Motor vehicle



I put the Conductor remote in my center console, next to the window switches. It really looks OEM in there

Car Vehicle Automotive design Personal luxury car Motor vehicle


I also routed the USB programming cable into the cabin, and installed a jack inside the center console storage cubby. This makes it really easy to connect the laptop when tuning.

Vehicle Car Motor vehicle Steering part Automotive design


To mount the DSP, I used two wood strips ...

Wood Trunk Automotive exterior Bumper Audio equipment


So I could mount it in the same place where the OEM sub amplifier was located.

Motor vehicle Automotive design Hood Automotive exterior Vehicle


The RCAs, speaker wires, usb programming cable, and conductor remote cable, are all run down the driver's side. Then the power and remote turn on lead are run down the passenger's side.

My power distribution looks like this:

Rectangle Slope Font Circuit component Parallel


The underhood fuse block, as well as 2ga OFC upgraded chassis and motor ground wire

Motor vehicle Hood Automotive exterior Automotive design Automotive tire


And in the trunk

Motor vehicle Hood Electrical wiring Gas Auto part


And then with all the trim panels in place, it's all buttoned up nicely.

Motor vehicle Car Automotive design Audio equipment Trunk


For the speakers, I just used the OEM locations ... 1" tweeters in the dash, 6.5" mid range in the lower doors, 6.5" coax in the rear seat side panels.

I'd like to get the sub out of the trunk, since the space is so limited in there ... but that'll be for a future project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 · (Edited)
Well, one reason would be for test tone gain setting. If the highs have a fixed 1.25k high pass, then playing a 1k test tone will give you bad readings for setting gains on the amp channels which the tweeters will connect. Plus, if you hook up the 6.5" speakers in the sound bar, you can connect them to the rear channels of the HU in standard mode and have fader control.

I debated between the Director and the Conductor, and went with the Conductor because of it's small form factor, and how well it integrated with my interior. It being cheaper than the Director was a plus too :)

Pictures, did someone say "pictures"? LOL! I have a few ...

I have a Pro-Clip mount for my iPhone right next to the 80PRS HU, since I play most of my music from my phone.

I put the Conductor remote in my center console, next to the window switches. It really looks OEM in there

I also routed the USB programming cable into the cabin, and installed a jack inside the center console storage cubby. This makes it really easy to connect the laptop when tuning.

To mount the DSP, I used two wood strips ...

So I could mount it in the same place where the OEM sub amplifier was located.

The RCAs, speaker wires, usb programming cable, and conductor remote cable, are all run down the driver's side. Then the power and remote turn on lead are run down the passenger's side.

My power distribution looks like this:

The underhood fuse block, as well as 2ga OFC upgraded chassis and motor ground wire

And in the trunk

And then with all the trim panels in place, it's all buttoned up nicely.

For the speakers, I just used the OEM locations ... 1" tweeters in the dash, 6.5" mid range in the lower doors, 6.5" coax in the rear seat side panels.

I'd like to get the sub out of the trunk, since the space is so limited in there ... but that'll be for a future project.
Oooo, hadn't thought about the test tone and the gating. Good call, good call. I'll get that toggled before I test.

Oh, man, the Conductor looks slick in that setup! Good work, that all looks professional. Same with the USB. It's those little details that tie it all together.

Mine isn't nearly so sleek, but that's mainly because putting fancy things in an old Jeep is sort of like attaching a spaceship to a farmhouse. Fun, but doesn't really tie together.

I like the cable management as well. I can't remember what they're called, but have you seen those little pieces you screw down that route the cables?

I have a big 3 cable pack, but it turns out the Jeep Wrangler setup uses a fusible link in the power cable, so I'm having to order one and rig it up with the big 3's power cable.

Motor vehicle Vehicle Steering part Automotive design Steering wheel


I'm rather proud of the dial and LED. I want to get something to fill that space below the AC controls where I could install the USB connection for the head unit and the DSP, maybe a quick charge USB as well.

How did you cut that spot for the USB port in your console?
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
I really want to get this switch to replace the first:}

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And this Steve Meade voltage sensor:

Gauge Watch Gadget Automotive lighting Font
 

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Thanks, I appreciate the compliments! The car does not get driven often, so I have the luxury of being able to work on things over several days, with it in pieces in the garage, if needed. That helps greatly in being able to be particular in how I install stuff.

I've never been completely satisfied with the cable management of the wiring to the amp/DSP combo, although I did clean it up a bit more. But since it is hidden behind the trim panels, I don't sweat it much.

Electrical wiring Gas Cable Machine Electricity



For the USB jack in the console, I just took my time and used an exacto knife to cut the hole. I cut it to fit a Keystone bezel, and then used a USB keystone dongle cable to snap into the bezel.

Eyewear Peripheral Eye glass accessory Audio equipment Cable


 
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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Thanks, I appreciate the compliments! The car does not get driven often, so I have the luxury of being able to work on things over several days, with it in pieces in the garage, if needed. That helps greatly in being able to be particular in how I install stuff.

I've never been completely satisfied with the cable management of the wiring to the amp/DSP combo, although I did clean it up a bit more. But since it is hidden behind the trim panels, I don't sweat it much.

View attachment 313647


For the USB jack in the console, I just took my time and used an exacto knife to cut the hole. I cut it to fit a Keystone bezel, and then used a USB keystone dongle cable to snap into the bezel.

View attachment 313648

If it's all tucked away and not producing any noise I wouldn't sweat it much either. My Jeep doesn't have carpet or trim, so anyone can see my spaghetti nightmare of an install 😆

That keystone jack is slick! When you refer to the bezel, are you talking about what's already on the cable or do you have to buy something else?
 

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For the spaghetti nightmare management, I find having tesa tape and braided sleeving on hand to really help.

Here is what I use:

Wheel Tire Automotive tire Synthetic rubber Tread




Rectangle Font Automotive exterior Pattern Slope


Amazon.com: 25ft - 1/2 inch PET Expandable Braided Sleeving – Black – Alex Tech braided cable sleeve : Electronics


To cut the sleeving, I have a butane powered soldering iron, which I set on my workbench with it lit. Then I stick my exacto knife into the flame, and heat it up. Then once it's nice and hot (glowing red), I cut the sleeving. This melts the end while cutting it, so it doesn't fray after being cut to length.
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
For the spaghetti nightmare management, I find having tesa tape and braided sleeving on hand to really help.

Here is what I use:

View attachment 313650



View attachment 313651

Amazon.com: 25ft - 1/2 inch PET Expandable Braided Sleeving – Black – Alex Tech braided cable sleeve : Electronics


To cut the sleeving, I have a butane powered soldering iron, which I set on my workbench with it lit. Then I stick my exacto knife into the flame, and heat it up. Then once it's nice and hot (glowing red), I cut the sleeving. This melts the end while cutting it, so it doesn't fray after being cut to length.
I love that USB port. I'm going to pick up a few of those and make this look slick. Thank you!

Is that sleeving wide enough to fit multiple cables, by chance? I have an 8 gauge, 4 gauge, and 18 gauge power cables I would like to sleeve together in the engine bay.

Lucky about having multiple vehicles, and a garage. Every time I tear my Jeep apart I wonder if I'll be able to drive to work the next day 😂
 

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I have the 1/2" sleeving, and was able to fit all of my speakers wires into it. So, 8 pairs (16 individual wires) of 16ga OFC, including the PVC outer sheathing (I used 4 conductor Monoprice 16ga OFC wire ... 2 sets of 4 conductor for the front components, one 4 conductor for the rear fills, and another 4 conductor for the center location). I used it for the 2ga under the hood as well.

The sheathing expands when you push it together (like a chinese finger trap), then you stretch it to conform to the wires after they're run through it, and trim to size.

They have 1/4", 1/2" and 1" sizes, so you could get whatever size is needed. It's cheap enough to get a few different sizes if you're not sure.
 

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Here's a shot of the sleeving over the speaker wires

Tire Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bicycle tire
 

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Prior to having the Helix DSP, I used the sleeving to make everything look nice and tidy. So I had the sleeving on hand when I removed the Toro amp, installed the Helix, added rear fills & center channel, and reconfigured my power distribution to get the trunk brace and trim panels back in.

Trunk Audio equipment Electronic instrument Technology Loudspeaker


Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Trunk Automotive exterior
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
Prior to having the Helix DSP, I used the sleeving to make everything look nice and tidy. So I had the sleeving on hand when I removed the Toro amp, installed the Helix, added rear fills & center channel, and reconfigured my power distribution to get the trunk brace and trim panels back in.

View attachment 313656

View attachment 313657
I do like that braided sleeving, I'll have to pick some of that up. Looks like it's fairly cheap and I'm ready to find permanent homes for my electronics. The black and white speckled plate you're using for some of the wiring, is that part of a cutting board? I was looking at cutting boards as an option when I got started with this.

With your rear fill speakers is that just pure fill or do you have it time-delayed for, what's it called, differential rear fill?

Okay, so managed to get my sub gain tested. It was already at 39, got it down to about 38.4. I barely move that little dial and it would jump 5 - 6. But we're just about perfect. Head unit at 75%, DSP volume at 100%, DSP bass control at 100%.

Of course, as soon as I got first speaker out the rain came in hard. Beautiful sunny day, as soon as it gets dark out that hit and it's supposed to rain all day tomorrow. I might try sitting out in the Jeep in a bit and just doing it from the cab. A little cramped, but doable.

I'll post results as soon as I have them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
Okay, gains on the 4 channel are set at 17 now. They were at 9 to start. I'll run some pink noise through an RTA in the morning and see what happens. At least that part I can do sitting in the vehicle, so the rain won't be a hindrance.
 

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The black and white speckled plate you're using for some of the wiring, is that part of a cutting board? I was looking at cutting boards as an option when I got started with this.
Yep, a cutting board I got from Amazon

Amazon.com: Dexas 403-50 Superboard Pastry Board (No Handle), 14 by 17 inches, Midnight Granite Color : Everything Else


With your rear fill speakers is that just pure fill or do you have it time-delayed for, what's it called, differential rear fill?
I have my rear fills setup with differential signal from + right and - left, so they only play what's unique to the R and L signals. Meaning, anything present in both the R and the L is filtered out ... then I have extra delay applied to them as well. They just add ambience to the overall sound.

Okay, gains on the 4 channel are set at 17 now. They were at 9 to start. I'll run some pink noise through an RTA in the morning and see what happens. At least that part I can do sitting in the vehicle, so the rain won't be a hindrance.
Great! Do you know what your tweeters are rated for? If 75w, then you're good to go. If less than 75w, you may need to reduce the gain on the channels feeding the tweets. But once you run some pink noise, and check out the RTA, that'll guide the final gain tweaking to get as close as you can to the target curve. After that, you start the EQ work
 

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Oh, and don't forget to re-enable the crossover settings before playing any signal through to the speakers! Don't want a costly mistake ..
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
Yep, a cutting board I got from Amazon

Amazon.com: Dexas 403-50 Superboard Pastry Board (No Handle), 14 by 17 inches, Midnight Granite Color : Everything Else

I have my rear fills setup with differential signal from + right and - left, so they only play what's unique to the R and L signals. Meaning, anything present in both the R and the L is filtered out ... then I have extra delay applied to them as well. They just add ambience to the overall sound.

Great! Do you know what your tweeters are rated for? If 75w, then you're good to go. If less than 75w, you may need to reduce the gain on the channels feeding the tweets. But once you run some pink noise, and check out the RTA, that'll guide the final gain tweaking to get as close as you can to the target curve. After that, you start the EQ work
Nice! I'd like to do the cutting board. I do have a wooden board I'm using at the moment, but those absorb water, and my Jeep is not quite waterproof at the moment.

Very nice! Does it improve the sound stage, or actually give you that feeling of a larger acoustic space? If I can avoid using them to supply midbass I'd like to use my speaker car 6.5s for fill off my head unit.

The tweeters are rated for 75w!

I'll start the RTA'ing in the morning or my lunch, see if I can at least get the gains set well and get some measurements to look over and post!
 

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I actually have several tunes configured on my DSP, and I can switch between them with the Conductor remote. On some, I have the rears set like I describe above, and they just provide ambience and make the space feel bigger. On others, I have them configured for full range R and L, for loudness. Which one I run kind of depends on my mood LOL

Have you seen these adapters?

Metra 82-1011 Speaker Mounting Brackets

They allow you to mount 4x6" speakers in those 5.25" holes in the dash. Might be something worth considering, or research other Jeep owner's experiences with them. I'm not sure if the 5.25" little enclosures or 4x6"s without enclosures would do better for mid bass, but definitely worth checking out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
I actually have several tunes configured on my DSP, and I can switch between them with the Conductor remote. On some, I have the rears set like I describe above, and they just provide ambience and make the space feel bigger. On others, I have them configured for full range R and L, for loudness. Which one I run kind of depends on my mood LOL

Have you seen these adapters?

Metra 82-1011 Speaker Mounting Brackets

They allow you to mount 4x6" speakers in those 5.25" holes in the dash. Might be something worth considering, or research other Jeep owner's experiences with them. I'm not sure if the 5.25" little enclosures or 4x6"s without enclosures would do better for mid bass, but definitely worth checking out.
That's interesting, I hadn't thought of having a separate tune for diff fill and regular fill. That's pretty ingenious!

I'm curious if I could do the diff fill through my head unit. It would be very quiet, of course, but since my HU has time delay I could use just the front RCA outputs for the DSP, set the rear speakers to be on a long time delay, and if I can do the L-R through wiring then I might be able to achieve it without needing an extra amp (at the moment). I like your idea about separate tunes for each one, though, so I think I'll eventually go that route.

Actually, 4x6s are the stock configuration for the dash speakers. They sounded okay, better when I installed foam speaker baffles around them, but so far the 5.25 pods sound better and it seems like I have a better choice of speakers for upgrading. Thanks for looking for those, though! Not a whole lot of options without going full custom-fab for an old Wrangler.
 

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Ya, I also have tunes for "Driver's Seat" vs "Both Seats" ... where the TA is just different between them.

Being able to store and recall different tunes was a huge selling point for me on the Conductor :)
 
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