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Hi everyone,

I am upgrading the Bose system for my 2015 Infiniti Q50, which has 3 dash speakers (Left, Center, Right) along with 3-way components for the doors. I've invested in the JBL MS8 and am planning to run a 5.1 configuration. Should I use all 3 speakers for the center channel or just the 1 speaker? If all 3 speakers, how should they be wired?

Thanks.
 

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That one center speaker in the dash will serve as the center from the ms-8 center output...I would completely ignore the corner left and right speakers of the dash and focus on the door speakers...

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Thanks for the advice about the center. I was stressing over buying 3 speakers when most most speakers of that size are only sold in pairs. I don't want to spend more money than I have too.
 

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That one center speaker in the dash will serve as the center from the ms-8 center output...I would completely ignore the corner left and right speakers of the dash and focus on the door speakers...

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
I'd utilize all of the factory speaker location if you've got the MS-8 to do it with. For all we know given the information you've provided, the door speakers could be high-frequency limited midbass/midrange only.

I would recommend MS-8 be used as follows: 3 channels to left, center, right dash, 2 channels to doors, 2 channel;s to rears, 1 channel to sub (that's all 8 channels). I did this in my previous Toyota Tundra with factory center dash speaker and got very good results.
 

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I'd utilize all of the factory speaker location if you've got the MS-8 to do it with. For all we know given the information you've provided, the door speakers could be high-frequency limited midbass/midrange only.

I would recommend MS-8 be used as follows: 3 channels to left, center, right dash, 2 channels to doors, 2 channel;s to rears, 1 channel to sub (that's all 8 channels). I did this in my previous Toyota Tundra with factory center dash speaker and got very good results.

You can also run additional channels such as rear-pillar speakers or other unique locations found in modern cars by sharing output with an amp, and using the amp's crossovers. In this way you can also have a quasi 7.1 setup like I did in my Durango, which had rear door speakers + rear D-pillar speakers. Same as I did in the Ford Flex. And you can run passive crossovers (make or buy) or the previously mentioned active crossovers to run things like a two-way center, 3-way front, etc. At one point I had a single MS-8 running the signal to 13 speakers in a Flex. It was the one I did 3-way fronts, 2-way center, and quasi-7.1 in the back.



Fair warning... I would NOT use the MS-8 any more. The Helix DSP.3 with Realcenter is what I'd go with. The MS-8 is not competitive in terms of signal to noise, not adjustable in ways you want later, and not as clear as the Helix. I had a build I did with an MS-8 originally, and I sent the car back to the owner (he lives hundreds of miles away.) He ran it a while but eventually the urge to tune and to "remove the veil" the MS-8 creates in the sound (the ultimate lack of clarity it creates) caused him to replace it. So he installed the Helix DSP.3 in place of the MS-8, and I helped him re-tune his system remotely with REW and the Helix to a more ideal house curve (the Hanatsu one, adjusted with slightly less drop on the top end.) Now it is true that the Helix doesn't have as good a center channel / surround logic capability. But the pros more than made up for these cons. The system now has a much lower noise floor, greater dynamics (and this system is running 4 amplifiers, so it has immense power), it is smoother and clearer, etc etc. Its just better in every way that ends up mattering to the listener.


Just my take on it. Regarding the 3-way center, it sounds like a good excuse to run a MTM if there's enough room. If not, probably just use the center-most speaker as true center, as big as you can, and either a coaxial or a very capable full-ranger.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the words of wisdom.

This is how I am planning to layout the channels for the MS8:

Dash
Channel 1 - Center - 3in widerange + tweeter (Passive)

Front Door
Channel 2/3 - Front Hi - 1in Tweeter + 3in Midrange (Active)
Channel 4/5 - Front Lo - 6in Midbass

Rear Deck/Door
Channel 6/7 - Side - 5.25in Component set

Rear Deck/Trunk
Channel 8 - Sub - 10in Sub
 

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Thanks for the words of wisdom.

This is how I am planning to layout the channels for the MS8:

Dash
Channel 1 - Center - 3in widerange + tweeter (Passive)

Front Door
Channel 2/3 - Front Hi - 1in Tweeter + 3in Midrange (Active)
Channel 4/5 - Front Lo - 6in Midbass

Rear Deck/Door
Channel 6/7 - Side - 5.25in Component set

Rear Deck/Trunk
Channel 8 - Sub - 10in Sub

Yep, solid plan but I would probably suggest coaxials in rear, just for simplicity. The MS-8 will, like all smart rear fill, work best at a limited bandwidth. When you build your crossover points, its advised to stay north of 110hz for the rears and the top end is rolled off, so high grade components would be a huge waste. Even stock speakers will probably sound 100% fine, but that's your call.

The MS-8 can compensate for mild things like passive crossover frequency volume differences, which allows you to simplify the passive crossover if you're making your own. I was able to do my mid-tweets for my pillars and center channel with just 4 parts each, only air inductors and poly caps. This makes the parts expense to make them pretty reasonable, at about $20 each. I used a cross frequency of about 5200hz. Speakers were all Dayton drivers, so total expense there across the front L / C / R stage was only ~$130, plus midbass drivers (RS225-4's). I probably wouldn't use Dayton again but the system sounded great nonetheless. I'd suggest equipment and crossover points that stay omni-directional well past their cross points, which ends up making MS-8 tunes more forgiving to head position.
But again, the MS-8 will have a noise floor that you will hear, and it will add a veil, but that is debatable if you'll hear or be bothered by that. Just expect it to be part of the deal. You can minimize the noise floor by working carefully on your gain structure and by running quiet equipment.
 

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Hey Lanson...what else would you use at that price point beside Daytons?

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Hey Lanson...what else would you use at that price point beside Daytons?

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Hmmm, fantastic question.


Probably nothing at that exact price point, But I like my Audible Physics drivers I use (AR3A and AR20) and those are reasonable or at least were when I bought them. Let's see, I could also see myself trying to fit in Fountek or Vifa drivers, or maybe if I can score them, Wavecor. I have run a few Wavecor drivers and like them all. I will say, at ~5200Hz the ND20 tweeters were great, I could use them again without hesitation. The mids (RS75's) were just a little weak compared to other offers. Good enough for my project at the time, which was to get it done on a really tight budget.
 

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I appreciate you man...thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience...


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