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10 channel Frog-Brain, that's my suggestion. I'd buy it.
Now we're talkin'!

Best have the auto-tune allow parameter visibility and tweaking.

Then no 400 page threads on "I ran auto-tune and I can't get this.." or "I can't get that.." or "it doesn't blend this.." The reply would be singular and easy.. "Then go in and change it!" :cool:

And don't let on until it's on the shelves or there will be 200 pages of "when's it coming out?"
 

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Im going to try this sub as Front Low. Just means i will have to go passive on my front stage. I will say that Andys statement about the sub type making a difference its very true. If I take my old round Solobaric 12 in its .66 cu ft sealed box, very loud but boomy and easily located. Swap in my ported Dayton 10 and its silky smooth. Cant wait to get my JBL p1022 in and see how it blends. I bet the IB guys with ms8's just laugh at the rest of us.

Andy, since your back in here (which is just awesome btw), you had a tip regarding setting the LP xover of sub amp. I cant seem to find it for the life of me. I believe it was to help in the case of small sealed subs.
 

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Kaigoss, with a single sub amp and single or dual subs is it essential to use both FL-Lo and FR-Lo ? Could one assign only one of the Lo's? You've got me curious.
Maybe you should start a new thread for this. What can you suggest i should do if i'm using 5 and 6 channel for sides. Will i have better sq if i drop the side speakers? Can i use 7 and 8 for the sub? Meaning i will be dedicate two channels for a single sub and run three way with no sub.
 

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What could be the problem, please help. During the output check i cannot get signal from the side left speaker,also with the sweeps during calibration. But when i listen to music my left side speaker is working. What could be wrong?
 

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What could be the problem, please help. During the output check i cannot get signal from the side left speaker,also with the sweeps during calibration. But when i listen to music my left side speaker is working. What could be wrong?
Found my problem. It was just a pinched wire on rear left side door. Speaker turns on when i open the door and goes away when i close it.
 

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Im going to try this sub as Front Low. Just means i will have to go passive on my front stage. I will say that Andys statement about the sub type making a difference its very true. If I take my old round Solobaric 12 in its .66 cu ft sealed box, very loud but boomy and easily located. Swap in my ported Dayton 10 and its silky smooth. Cant wait to get my JBL p1022 in and see how it blends. I bet the IB guys with ms8's just laugh at the rest of us.

Andy, since your back in here (which is just awesome btw), you had a tip regarding setting the LP xover of sub amp. I cant seem to find it for the life of me. I believe it was to help in the case of small sealed subs.
I can't answer for Andy but several thousand posts and a few years ago when I kept getting a boomy, poorly integrated sub after calibration, I was told to use the amp's lowpass filter around 50hz (you can adjust, has to be lower than the MS8's Lp sub filter) during calibration and then turn it off once calibrated. It worked wonders. The overall sub volume was higher and the sub to midbass integration was much better. The sub became much smoother as well.

I found the MS8 works the best when it doesn't have to make huge changes whether it's level matching or EQ, such as a high Q peaky sub setup. It's also very sensitive to polarity so make sure all speakers are wired properly.
 

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I can't answer for Andy but several thousand posts and a few years ago when I kept getting a boomy, poorly integrated sub after calibration, I was told to use the amp's lowpass filter around 50hz (you can adjust, has to be lower than the MS8's Lp sub filter) during calibration and then turn it off once calibrated. It worked wonders. The overall sub volume was higher and the sub to midbass integration was much better. The sub became much smoother as well.

I found the MS8 works the best when it doesn't have to make huge changes whether it's level matching or EQ, such as a high Q peaky sub setup. It's also very sensitive to polarity so make sure all speakers are wired properly.


Thanks!
 

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has anyone here lost the foam ( disintegrated ) on their ms8 mics? am I right in assuming there is no need to replace it, as it looks like its there just for our ear's comfort?
 

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sorry if this is a dumb question but can i do this with an active 3 way system:

iphone headphone cable --> aux input on ms8 --> ms8 outputs to amps

so basically use the ms8 with no headunit at all ?

the manual seems to suggest i can, but will the volume control on the headphone work?
 

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Guys i need to do something with the car and i have to remove the batteries. By doing this will i lose all my settings? Do i need to run calibration again?
 

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I just recently discovered the "trick" where you store the driver and passenger calibrations, being able to compare small changes in head position during calibration, by toggling back and forth between driver and passenger settings.

Anyway, I discovered that a small difference in head angle can have a fairly large impact on bass response. So I took four different calibrations today and RTA'd them, and the only difference between the results is the head position during calibration steps #3 (look at driver mirror) and #4 (look at passenger mirror). The head angle positions were as follows:

Reading #1: Just outside the a-pillar (on the windshield)
Reading #2: At the a-pillar, straight above sail panel
Reading #3: Middle of side mirrors
Reading #4: Outside edge of side mirrors

Pic to illustrate:



I will add that when I calibrate, I will always keep my head level during all sweeps, which means my head only moves sideways, never up or down.

What I found was that the width of the stage, or the imaging, never changed. The only things that changed were slight nuances in the tonality, and the bass response. Reading #2 (sail panel) produced the strongest bass response, by about 3-4dB over the other 3 readings. But it was a peaky response as you can see on the RTAs. #1 was also peaky in the bass response, but not as loud as #2. The best bass/midbass response was with reading #3 (middle of side mirrors), but it was very close to #4. Not a very scientific or revealing post, I know, but I thought I'd post the results. I have no way to explain the differences in bass response, thought it was a bit strange.

Reading #1:


Reading #2:


Reading #3:


Reading #4:
 

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While on the topic of head position during calibrations, I have recently been fighting the imaging as it is always too far to the left for my liking. Most male and female voices are straight in front of me, whereas they used to be a few inches farther toward the center of the dash. For example, Rebeccah Pidgeon's voice in Spanish Harlem was always about right center hood, whereas now it is almost straight in front of me. I have tried different head angles between left and right side measurements, but nothing seems to work. I have tried leaning to the left, and to the right during calibrations, but nothing seems to help. I am 100% sure my polarities are correct (tested with speaker pop app from JL Audio), and of course the balance is set to the center. I did some rewiring recently but other than that I am using the same amp I was using when the imaging was much better centered.

For reference, I am using HAT L3SE widebanders in the door OEM midrange locations, on axis, no tweeters.

Any ideas/suggestions?
 
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